[98_1LE]

It is a near real time (a second or two of lag) power monitor. The electric company installed it for free for signing up for a 2 year contract, and since I am planning to stay with them anyway.

Here is with the dryer on:
(IMG:http://i44.tinypic.com/20hne36.jpg)

Here is with it off:
(IMG:http://i40.tinypic.com/o53hg1.jpg)

It has a bunch of screens that display different data, including daily/weekly/monthly cost estimates.

And the remaining incandescants in the house have to go!

[trackbird]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

[Phil]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

it could simply be a weak breaker, or there is something else in the house on that circuit that overloaded it when it kicked on. Dehumidifier, freezer somewhere, sump-pump, ect.

I think the idea of all the cfl bulbs is great, save energy ect, but most people have no idea that you are supposed to dispose of them at hazardous waste clean-up days because they contain mercury. Its not good for the environment. Not being able to dim them sucks too.

This post has been edited by Phil: Mar 11 2010, 12:47 AM

[cccbock]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

it could simply be a weak breaker, or there is something else in the house on that circuit that overloaded it when it kicked on. Dehumidifier, freezer somewhere, sump-pump, ect.

I think the idea of all the cfl bulbs is great, save energy ect, but most people have no idea that you are supposed to dispose of them at hazardous waste clean-up days because they contain mercury. Its not good for the environment. Not being able to dim them sucks too.

There are a number of reasons the breaker could go. Worn out is one. Drops in the line voltage is another. Your electric utility wont tell you about that one. You may be getting voltage drops from other people on the main line if they are starting large loads nearby. In the old days, incandescents used to dim when this happened, but you cant usually tell with fluorescents. Check the CFL's and the T8 lamps (on the ends or base) for temp (touch the base of each one), if you get a cathode overheating it can draw more power. I must say however that given the description of the loads, you should be WAY under 15 amps. Maybe there is something else on there as mentioned. As mentioned above, anything motorized can kick a breaker if you get a locked rotor situation.
bock

[Phil]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

it could simply be a weak breaker, or there is something else in the house on that circuit that overloaded it when it kicked on. Dehumidifier, freezer somewhere, sump-pump, ect.

I think the idea of all the cfl bulbs is great, save energy ect, but most people have no idea that you are supposed to dispose of them at hazardous waste clean-up days because they contain mercury. Its not good for the environment. Not being able to dim them sucks too.

There are a number of reasons the breaker could go. Worn out is one. Drops in the line voltage is another. Your electric utility wont tell you about that one. You may be getting voltage drops from other people on the main line if they are starting large loads nearby. In the old days, incandescents used to dim when this happened, but you cant usually tell with fluorescents. Check the CFL's and the T8 lamps (on the ends or base) for temp (touch the base of each one), if you get a cathode overheating it can draw more power. I must say however that given the description of the loads, you should be WAY under 15 amps. Maybe there is something else on there as mentioned. As mentioned above, anything motorized can kick a breaker if you get a locked rotor situation.
bock

that is true, and under voltage will cause certain fixtures/appliances to draw more current, but the circuit would have to be loaded up already to get enough of an overload from the undervoltage for a long enough time to overload and trip the breaker.

It just sounds like something else is on the circuit and when it kicks on, it overloads.

This post has been edited by Phil: Mar 11 2010, 02:01 AM

[Beach Cruiser]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

it could simply be a weak breaker, or there is something else in the house on that circuit that overloaded it when it kicked on. Dehumidifier, freezer somewhere, sump-pump, ect.

I think the idea of all the cfl bulbs is great, save energy ect, but most people have no idea that you are supposed to dispose of them at hazardous waste clean-up days because they contain mercury. Its not good for the environment. Not being able to dim them sucks too.

There are a number of reasons the breaker could go. Worn out is one. Drops in the line voltage is another. Your electric utility wont tell you about that one. You may be getting voltage drops from other people on the main line if they are starting large loads nearby. In the old days, incandescents used to dim when this happened, but you cant usually tell with fluorescents. Check the CFL's and the T8 lamps (on the ends or base) for temp (touch the base of each one), if you get a cathode overheating it can draw more power. I must say however that given the description of the loads, you should be WAY under 15 amps. Maybe there is something else on there as mentioned. As mentioned above, anything motorized can kick a breaker if you get a locked rotor situation.
bock

that is true, and under voltage will cause certain fixtures/appliances to draw more current, but the circuit would have to be loaded up already to get enough of an overload from the undervoltage for a long enough time to overload and trip the breaker.

It just sounds like something else is on the circuit and when it kicks on, it overloads.

Motion light outside? Heater on a thermostat somewhere on the circuit? outside pump for a sprinkler system? well pump? Just trying to think of things sometimes tied into a garage circuit that you don't notice. Something is overloading it somewhere on the circuit, very well could be a weak breaker.