[98_1LE]

It is a near real time (a second or two of lag) power monitor. The electric company installed it for free for signing up for a 2 year contract, and since I am planning to stay with them anyway.

Here is with the dryer on:
(IMG:http://i44.tinypic.com/20hne36.jpg)

Here is with it off:
(IMG:http://i40.tinypic.com/o53hg1.jpg)

It has a bunch of screens that display different data, including daily/weekly/monthly cost estimates.

And the remaining incandescants in the house have to go!

[trackbird]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

[nape]

Good point Rob. The other lights on the ckt should be 5 CFL's at 17 watts each. I have five 2 bulb T8 fixtures in the garage. I should still be way under 15 amps. And oddly, the lights were on for a while and then it went dark. It wasn't a start up surge, just "poof" 5-10 minutes later.

Check to make sure the screw on the breaker is tight and that all the splices are good. A bad splice can also cause issues like that. Wires should be twisted together before putting the wire nut on. Most reps will say that wire nuts are designed so that you don't have to splice the wires together before you put the wire nut on. That's about as true as the guy who tells you that you don't have to torque wheels. Sure, it works, but you don't know if you have 60ft-lbs or 160ft-lbs.

A wire nut is a splice cap and nothing more. Make the splice, cap it so it doesn't touch anything.

Also, how are your receps wired in? Are they pigtailed so that the device isn't in series or did you just land a wire on each screw? Putting a recep inline will greatly shorten the life as you're asking that little metal tab (the one you break to make it a switched recep) to carry current all the time. I've actually seen them so hot that the recep was melting.