![]() |
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#1
|
|
Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 59 Joined: 12-May 10 Member No.: 12,601 ![]() |
Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Hugger orange 1LE with 24,000 miles and a broken piston ! The car had been used in autocross, and the previous owner was moving on to new things. Well the car came with a lot of spares and I would like to return it to somewhat original condition, so I'd like a little help in determining exactly what was original. What I do know:
-non leather wrapped steering wheel -manual drivers seat, windows, hatch release -this car had ac -DA Konis my first few questions: -rear sway bar, 19mm or 21 mm ? I've seen contradiction on this, though I read Strano stating the 21mm was '93 only -which shifter, stock or Hurst derivitive ? -front coil spring wire diameter ? rear as well Also I heard from the previous owner that there was a pic on here of a functional tool to remove a ground control kit fron the front struts ! Thanks, and I'm looking forward to the responses ! Mike This post has been edited by 96Mike: May 13 2010, 05:18 PM |
|
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#2
|
|
Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 59 Joined: 12-May 10 Member No.: 12,601 ![]() |
Thanks for the info, that'll help get things started. Fortunatly I have the manual seat lower, I'll have to check out the various LCA's that came with the car. By the sounds of it the hurst is similar/same as a '97 SS I had worked on, that was cut down to fit the strap type GM handle. It was different than the aftermarket one I had on my '93 Z/28. IIRC it was cut very close to the bolt holes to achieve this. So the front lower control arms would have the star shaped bushing if they are non-1LE ? The car came with a spare diff with a torsen and Motive 3.73's, as well as Motive 3.42's in a box. The diff in it is an auburn posi/strange axles, 4.10 with a T/A cover. But I also received a finned cover that I don't recognize. I'm sure the sets of front springs have tags on them, so I'll have to find out what the part numbers are. It won't be an exact resto, as I the car had an '04 LS6 in it, and I brought an '02 LS1 up from Texas (I'm in Canada btw) as it was the lowest mileage one I could find, but it doesn't have the EGR provisions of the '99 motor, though the EGR came with the car.
Thanks for the info Blaine, I'm still not sure how the tool works, is the nut under the hat ? I'll look at my new Koni SA's to get a better idea, as the other 2 sets have upper control arms attached. I did receive a cut offset boxed end wrench with the car, so that exlains what it's for, but whether it works is another story. I noticed some of your work while lurking before registering, beutiful craftsmanship ! I was picking up the Koni's for my '96 conv. when I was handed the ad for the '99, so now I'm neck deep in parts as well, lol. Edit: here's the car for those who are interested. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Hugger1LE/HO%201LE/ This post has been edited by 96Mike: May 14 2010, 07:07 AM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#3
|
|
I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Thanks for the info Blaine, I'm still not sure how the tool works, is the nut under the hat ? Yes, under the hat, and the hat has to come off to get the c/o sleeves off. The nut can be on there mighty tight. The easiest way to crack it loose is to put both front corners on stands, back the c/o adjuster all the way down, dropping the spring so there's room for the tool to get under the hat, and crack the nut loose. Some penetrating oil won't hurt. If you pull the shock assembly off the car first you'll need a big vise to hold it. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#4
|
|
Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 59 Joined: 12-May 10 Member No.: 12,601 ![]() |
Thanks for the info Blaine, I'm still not sure how the tool works, is the nut under the hat ? Yes, under the hat, and the hat has to come off to get the c/o sleeves off. The nut can be on there mighty tight. The easiest way to crack it loose is to put both front corners on stands, back the c/o adjuster all the way down, dropping the spring so there's room for the tool to get under the hat, and crack the nut loose. Some penetrating oil won't hurt. If you pull the shock assembly off the car first you'll need a big vise to hold it. Thanks for all the info Blaine, it's much appreciated. I'll give it a shot this weekend, and if not I'll grab that tool you have in stock ! |
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2025 - 09:54 AM |