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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
Do you guys have to do this just to change the fluid in your rear diff? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
(IMG:http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w178/1meanz/winter10-11007.jpg) (IMG:http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w178/1meanz/winter10-11008.jpg) |
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#2
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
Well I'd rather not cut, drill, or weld the cast aluminum on my rear diff. It's just not worth the risk of it cracking down the road, this Dana 44 stuff is too expensive.
I removed the diff so I can clean the inside out. StanIROCZ rebuilt it for me last winter, so this is it's first oil change and I wanted to clean it out. Also, it was leaking really bad(not Austin's fault), so I had to pull it to re-seal the batwing to the diff case. Hopefully after this I'll never have a leak and won't have to pull it for a long time, in which case I'll steal TPIJay's idea and use a drill pump. I also discovered a cracked bushing in the passenger camber rod, so I will be calling Banski for a set of heim jointed camber rods if funds allow. Mr. Beaird, yes I had to have the IRS LOL. I mainly posted this for fun because its not something people normally see, especially in a lowly thirdgen. I'll consider your rotisserie idea if the drill pump thing doesn't work out! |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 16th June 2025 - 09:42 PM |