[pharmd]

Guys need some advice here from folks more experienced than me. I have a 2002 Camaro SS M6 (white with black roof and black wheels). On our way to the Mid West Musclecar Classic, we happened upon 3 fellow racers and while having some fun on a backroad my engine detonated, developed a upper valvetrain noise, then deteriorated rapidly (we barely made it home). Needless to say I was really disappointed I was finally able to make an event, and I didn't even get to run.

SO I have some major decisions to undertake and I need some input. I will have to build a new motor. I have an LS1 (stock) block and LS2 (stock) block and FAST 102 intake/TB to start with. Im not sure what the LS1 needs, the LS2 was removed for spinning rod bearing #6. Should I rebuild the LS2 budget style with slight over bore, keep the stock crank, get forged rods/pistons, a good cylinder head and custom cam? This combo would probably land around 470-480rwhp (my old LS1 was 456/415rw on a conservative dyno). Or should I spend another 3-5K and build a stroker shortblock, good heads, cam etc. The end price would probably be a 5K difference I feel. Is an accusump pretty much a good insurance policy?

I need to upgrade brakes (stock ls1). I am considering Z06 conversion, I think this is a very cost effective and reasonable option to begin attending PT events with...Due to the cost of everything, what if I had to do fronts now then rears later? Will it cause me problems or should I just bite the bullet and upgrade both now?

Coilovers...I have Koni SA shocks on now with a german spring. At the very least I need to pick a different spring because the car is too low and drags the cutout on stuff). The rear suspension is NOT a coilover type setup, BUT they do make a conversion for this car. For those who have converted another generation Fbody from stock style to a 4 link or other coilover rear setup do you feel it was a major advantage. I have heard the argument that the cost of converting to a coilover doesn't justify the performance benefit on a SRA car. The cost difference here between just upgrading springs (+ sways) vs coilovers (sways), is probably $2500.

Rear end. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears now. If I plan to keep a NA powerplant making between 475-550rwhp/475-500rwtq, should I just jump staight to 9" or is a 12 bolt an option? From what I have seen for a FAB9 housing with aluminum center section, Detroit locker, etc etc I'm looking at close to $4k. The issue here is that it affects wheel choice (as I could get the new rear narrowed and allow me to run a wider rear wheel vs stock), and brake selection (10 bolt c clipped vs 9" not). And detriot locker vs wavetrac vs trutrac?

Other ancillary parts needed (from what research I have done) are: new seats, new steering wheel, new TURN ONE power steering pump, 6 point cage and harnesses, battery relocation kit, and I really need to ditch the single cutout and go with dual low profile cutouts $400 issue.

This car is NOT my daily driver, but I do want it to be something I could get in and go on the power tour with, or drive 1000 miles to an event if I wanted to. I am keeping AC and creature comforts. I want the car to be very capable on AutoX/Roadcourse/speed stop, that is the car's focus, being drivable to cruise-ins etc is also a requirement.

Please help a fella trying to make smart choices to start with. I don't want to just buy a bunch of parts. If the motor hadn't blown my plan was to do the brakes, suspension, seats and hit RTTH and the LSfest. Then try to make most events next year. My conscience can't really take buying all this stuff at once (since its just a hobby), but what parts I buy, I don't want to skimp on, only resulting in me having to buy replacements soon after. I don't have a budget per se, I could spend probably $25-35K and make it REALLY competitive, but it would be alot easier to swallow spending $10K this year, then in a year or so, spend another 5K, then a year later another 5K etc.

Thanks for your responses!

[Blainefab]

Ya, figure out what class you are targeting and we can help make you more competitive. You'll find that we tend to talk about SCCA and NASA classes for competitive autocross, and NASA HPDE for open track (non-comp) or time trial (comp against the clock).

You've already made some compromises that will limit your competitiveness in most classes - maintaining street use will be a disadvantage compared to a car that is dedicated to the class.

You'll find for autox/HPDE/TT that suspension and chassis and driver comfort/safety mods will provide more performance gain than motor stuff. If you were budget limited I'd say put a boneyard motor in it. It sounds like you've got room with your budget but I still recommend keeping the motor build simple and reliable. Keep the OEM knock sense and control. If you were able to break your motor on the street you wouldn't get very far with the same build on track. Budget for coolers. Best oil control is dry sump, but that need depends on the grip level of the car.

The C6 Z06 brakes would be a poor choice - most serious Corvettes have replaced them. You will be full weight/hi HP so better brakes up front are in order. Base C6 brakes are most cost effective, Stoptech arguably better at a price. Upgrading from one to the other can get pricey if you need to replace the spindles. Stock rear brakes are fine. Pad choice depends on experience level and tire choice.

The Global West front coilover kit allows use of racing springs in whatever rate you need. They will work with your Konis, and are height adjustable.

No need for rear coilovers - the tight space requires using 2.25" springs and that limits shock choice. OEM pigtail springs are available in the rate you need, shim for height changes.

The Fbod is a 3link + TA, changing to a 4link is a drag race thing. Upgrade the LCA's/PH/TA and you are good. www.unbalancedengineering.com

If you haven't blown up the 10bolt yet you can stick with it, no need for narrowing, that's a drag race thing. There is room for 11" with 315's with minor adjustments to the wheelwells. When you blow up the 10bolt you can drop in a Strange 12bolt with a Eaton diff that will be plug and play for about $2600

4pt rollbar, seat, harnesses is about $2500 for a really nice setup. You will lose the use of the rear seat.

Leave the battery where it is unless class rules call for a cutoff switch. Use a PC680 or PC925.

Skip the cutouts - if there are any venues left that still allow open exhaust, they won't for much longer. Noise regs are here to stay.

Welcome to frrax - you'll find this site is different than most. We have a useable history of threads that deal with all of these items. I encourage you to do some digging around, read the stickies. They will fill in the basics, and we can help with the specifics.