[pharmd]

Guys need some advice here from folks more experienced than me. I have a 2002 Camaro SS M6 (white with black roof and black wheels). On our way to the Mid West Musclecar Classic, we happened upon 3 fellow racers and while having some fun on a backroad my engine detonated, developed a upper valvetrain noise, then deteriorated rapidly (we barely made it home). Needless to say I was really disappointed I was finally able to make an event, and I didn't even get to run.

SO I have some major decisions to undertake and I need some input. I will have to build a new motor. I have an LS1 (stock) block and LS2 (stock) block and FAST 102 intake/TB to start with. Im not sure what the LS1 needs, the LS2 was removed for spinning rod bearing #6. Should I rebuild the LS2 budget style with slight over bore, keep the stock crank, get forged rods/pistons, a good cylinder head and custom cam? This combo would probably land around 470-480rwhp (my old LS1 was 456/415rw on a conservative dyno). Or should I spend another 3-5K and build a stroker shortblock, good heads, cam etc. The end price would probably be a 5K difference I feel. Is an accusump pretty much a good insurance policy?

I need to upgrade brakes (stock ls1). I am considering Z06 conversion, I think this is a very cost effective and reasonable option to begin attending PT events with...Due to the cost of everything, what if I had to do fronts now then rears later? Will it cause me problems or should I just bite the bullet and upgrade both now?

Coilovers...I have Koni SA shocks on now with a german spring. At the very least I need to pick a different spring because the car is too low and drags the cutout on stuff). The rear suspension is NOT a coilover type setup, BUT they do make a conversion for this car. For those who have converted another generation Fbody from stock style to a 4 link or other coilover rear setup do you feel it was a major advantage. I have heard the argument that the cost of converting to a coilover doesn't justify the performance benefit on a SRA car. The cost difference here between just upgrading springs (+ sways) vs coilovers (sways), is probably $2500.

Rear end. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears now. If I plan to keep a NA powerplant making between 475-550rwhp/475-500rwtq, should I just jump staight to 9" or is a 12 bolt an option? From what I have seen for a FAB9 housing with aluminum center section, Detroit locker, etc etc I'm looking at close to $4k. The issue here is that it affects wheel choice (as I could get the new rear narrowed and allow me to run a wider rear wheel vs stock), and brake selection (10 bolt c clipped vs 9" not). And detriot locker vs wavetrac vs trutrac?

Other ancillary parts needed (from what research I have done) are: new seats, new steering wheel, new TURN ONE power steering pump, 6 point cage and harnesses, battery relocation kit, and I really need to ditch the single cutout and go with dual low profile cutouts $400 issue.

This car is NOT my daily driver, but I do want it to be something I could get in and go on the power tour with, or drive 1000 miles to an event if I wanted to. I am keeping AC and creature comforts. I want the car to be very capable on AutoX/Roadcourse/speed stop, that is the car's focus, being drivable to cruise-ins etc is also a requirement.

Please help a fella trying to make smart choices to start with. I don't want to just buy a bunch of parts. If the motor hadn't blown my plan was to do the brakes, suspension, seats and hit RTTH and the LSfest. Then try to make most events next year. My conscience can't really take buying all this stuff at once (since its just a hobby), but what parts I buy, I don't want to skimp on, only resulting in me having to buy replacements soon after. I don't have a budget per se, I could spend probably $25-35K and make it REALLY competitive, but it would be alot easier to swallow spending $10K this year, then in a year or so, spend another 5K, then a year later another 5K etc.

Thanks for your responses!

[pharmd]

Guys, I don't plan on running in those types of events per se. I am talking about pro-touring events which are run what you brung open type deals (think Optima Street Car Invitational). The rules there are safety and tire based, other than that, no HP limits, you just can't have a tube frame all out race car, its got to be something streetable...HVAC, stereo, etc. This may sound ghey, but I don't have the time to get into rules and classes etc. I just want to go to these events, and some open events where folks are having a track day. I know I'm probably going about this wrong...I should not worry about power, setup my car to handle and just get lots of seat time, then as I get more comfortable with the car, or learn its deficiencies, then start upgrading more parts.

Right now, the car is blown up, so the motor has to be fixed. I have priced several different options: used 60K mile LS2 $3500, used L92 $4500, rebuilt LS1 $3500 (not forged), built stroker motors 402-427 ranging from $7000-10,000. IMHO it doesn't make since buying a used stock motor and paying $4000-5000 for it, I don't know that I want to swing $7000 just for motor right now, so I may go back to the LS1. My motor will be certainly geared towards mid-range average power, not peak power. My LS1 that was in it, made 456rwhp/415rwtq, and was super driveable with its mid-sized cam and killer heads/intake. I planned to go with a similar setup if I go that way. The caveat is these are unlimited cars, the last race I was at there were 500rwhp+ cars everywhere. Most of these cars are 1st Gen/2nd Gen Fbody, G bodies, Nova's, Older Mustangs with LSX swaps, T56's, Forgeline wheels with Detroit Speed chassis. The events are autox, road course and speed stop, and a cruise/show portion.

The most economical suspension idea is to swap in Strano springs with my Koni's, and strano sways in place of stokers and call it a day for less than $1k (IMHO). Later on I could work with someone to get a coilover setup....Ridetech is the company that is close to me that I can take my car to, they can 4 corner weigh it, get spring rates etc....they have a triple adjustable reseviored coilover for my fronts for about $1200.

I have seen several folks recommend staying with the 10 bolt, so I would probably do that...Just service it, and maybe add the aluminum diff cover...should I stick with the 3.42 or go 3.73??? I know alot of folks say sticking with 3.42 you shift less around the road course and it ends up being quicker, but with the powerband of a small motor, I may need some get to get it out of some turns?

I know you guys didn't like z06 brakes, but there are several folks in these events that are or have run them successfully for quite some time. IDK where the bad rap comes from on these, I heard the same thing on LS1tech and I think GMHTP has the CTS-V brakes on STI killer, and said they worked well, but didn't bite as well as they had hoped. Brian Finch who usually is the quickest guy at these events, ran the Z06 brake for several years and actually recommeded them to me...The front kit from KORE3 is about $1200, and I guess the plan is to run a less aggressive bad on the rear to help bias... Wilwood has a 6 piston setup that is like $1800, but the baer etc are upwards of $2500-3500.

I am thinking a cage may be overkill and just be extra weight, but if I am going to get out and turn some real speed on the road course, its probably a smart thing to do....Mid West Chassis has a chrome moly weld in 6pt cage for $350 + shipping.

Seats and harnesses are $$. I can get a decent set of Corbeau for about $900 in microsuede, harnesses are another $350 probably, but those are a necessity.

I planned on getting an Improved Racing oil pan baffle, and an accusump system, in addition to a Turn1 power steering pump.

The oil control is pretty much manadatory IMHO no matter what motor I run, the power steering can probably be later (but its not terribly expensive so it would be an easy upgrade).

The only reason I mention 4 link, is DSE makes a Quadralink rear end for these 1st and 2nd gen cars that works very well, and I think its a modified 4 link type setup (but don't quote me).

The cutout issue is for car shows and cruise-ins which I plan to take the car out to. Far as I can tell there haven't been noise restrictions on any of the events I've been to. My car is normally EXTREMELY quiet, with the magnaflow exhaust and dynamat and I need that quiet to keep my wife happy when she actually rides in it with me (she hates loud). SO the cutout provides a nice compromise (similar to the butterfly valve that opens on the C6 Z exhaust), quiet when crusing, and Rowdy when you want it.

I agree on the light flywheel and T56 rebuild, but it will have to be when I can afford it....I work with RPM transmission on all my trannies, so I would utilize them, and I could swap everything Flywheel, clutch, etc when I do that. The clutch is a LS7 clutch with Tick Master Cylinder (which I should have avoided). And I can appreciate the driveshaft, this car is smooth, but my previous 4th gen had alot of NVH with the driveshaft.

Do you guys have idea's on wheel/tire setu? Im leaning towards forgestar or raceline wheels, due to price and performance, and on tires I wanted to run a 315 rear and 295 front, and I think 18" is the right size??? I guess its confusing because with big brakes on front I have to consider wheel clearance, and in the rear, I know folks run 315's but I'm really concerned about rubbing issues, because I have rubbing right now with only a 275 (I realize that backspacing would probably help that). BFG sponsors alot of the events so I want to support them. They have a new tire coming out in April, so I could try to get by until then, but that is probably the modification that will make the largest single improvement, so I probably need to do it soon. The other consideration is this: so I buy my wheel tire setup...then my rear blows, so am I screwed somewhat because when I redo the rear I could narrow it and go with a potentially wider wheel/tire out back...What about the consideration of minitubs? 315's are great, but I know alot of these guys are running 335 or wider on rear.

So, which route would you guys go on motor? What rear gear? Wheels /tires...

I appreciate the input on this more than you know.