[pharmd]

Guys need some advice here from folks more experienced than me. I have a 2002 Camaro SS M6 (white with black roof and black wheels). On our way to the Mid West Musclecar Classic, we happened upon 3 fellow racers and while having some fun on a backroad my engine detonated, developed a upper valvetrain noise, then deteriorated rapidly (we barely made it home). Needless to say I was really disappointed I was finally able to make an event, and I didn't even get to run.

SO I have some major decisions to undertake and I need some input. I will have to build a new motor. I have an LS1 (stock) block and LS2 (stock) block and FAST 102 intake/TB to start with. Im not sure what the LS1 needs, the LS2 was removed for spinning rod bearing #6. Should I rebuild the LS2 budget style with slight over bore, keep the stock crank, get forged rods/pistons, a good cylinder head and custom cam? This combo would probably land around 470-480rwhp (my old LS1 was 456/415rw on a conservative dyno). Or should I spend another 3-5K and build a stroker shortblock, good heads, cam etc. The end price would probably be a 5K difference I feel. Is an accusump pretty much a good insurance policy?

I need to upgrade brakes (stock ls1). I am considering Z06 conversion, I think this is a very cost effective and reasonable option to begin attending PT events with...Due to the cost of everything, what if I had to do fronts now then rears later? Will it cause me problems or should I just bite the bullet and upgrade both now?

Coilovers...I have Koni SA shocks on now with a german spring. At the very least I need to pick a different spring because the car is too low and drags the cutout on stuff). The rear suspension is NOT a coilover type setup, BUT they do make a conversion for this car. For those who have converted another generation Fbody from stock style to a 4 link or other coilover rear setup do you feel it was a major advantage. I have heard the argument that the cost of converting to a coilover doesn't justify the performance benefit on a SRA car. The cost difference here between just upgrading springs (+ sways) vs coilovers (sways), is probably $2500.

Rear end. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears now. If I plan to keep a NA powerplant making between 475-550rwhp/475-500rwtq, should I just jump staight to 9" or is a 12 bolt an option? From what I have seen for a FAB9 housing with aluminum center section, Detroit locker, etc etc I'm looking at close to $4k. The issue here is that it affects wheel choice (as I could get the new rear narrowed and allow me to run a wider rear wheel vs stock), and brake selection (10 bolt c clipped vs 9" not). And detriot locker vs wavetrac vs trutrac?

Other ancillary parts needed (from what research I have done) are: new seats, new steering wheel, new TURN ONE power steering pump, 6 point cage and harnesses, battery relocation kit, and I really need to ditch the single cutout and go with dual low profile cutouts $400 issue.

This car is NOT my daily driver, but I do want it to be something I could get in and go on the power tour with, or drive 1000 miles to an event if I wanted to. I am keeping AC and creature comforts. I want the car to be very capable on AutoX/Roadcourse/speed stop, that is the car's focus, being drivable to cruise-ins etc is also a requirement.

Please help a fella trying to make smart choices to start with. I don't want to just buy a bunch of parts. If the motor hadn't blown my plan was to do the brakes, suspension, seats and hit RTTH and the LSfest. Then try to make most events next year. My conscience can't really take buying all this stuff at once (since its just a hobby), but what parts I buy, I don't want to skimp on, only resulting in me having to buy replacements soon after. I don't have a budget per se, I could spend probably $25-35K and make it REALLY competitive, but it would be alot easier to swallow spending $10K this year, then in a year or so, spend another 5K, then a year later another 5K etc.

Thanks for your responses!

[dailydriver]

A lot of peeps on here do not like Corbeau because NOTHING they make currently (INCLUDING their one piece, fiberglass composite, 'racing' shells) meets FIA/SFI/etc. safety specs/homologations.

IF you could afford to step up to; Momo, Racetech, specific Sparcos/Cobras, etc. {Recaro shells are OK, but over-priced for what they are} it would be A LOT more acceptable on here (AND better for your OWN safety!).

The dilemma is that recliners (even 'race-type/shaped/BIG bolstered ones) are NOT very safe in an all-out/full-on road course situation (besides NOT meeting those afforementioned safety specs), and one piece 'shells'/alloy seats are NOT very safe/durable for street use unless you have at least a GOOD 4 pt. bar with a SOLID backbraced harness bar (which, as Alan said IS a liability on the street, if not an out and out safety/inspection/LEO issue). (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

3.73s with a stock MN6 ratioed T56 in an LS1 f body will give you the same overall ratios as a stock 3.42/MN12 T56 boxed C5 Z06. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I was regretting not getting the Tick master when I did my LS7 clutch setup, now after hearing your comment on them, I'm glad I went with the stock piece!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (But I did get their remote speed bleeder, which I love!)

I know it is THE 'thing' in Pro Touring (especially on the 1st and 2nd gens), but EVERYONE on here has an extreme dislike for 'staggered' wheel/tire setups (for handling/balance reasons).

The reason C5/6 Vettes can get away with it is lighter overall weight, and more importantly, BETTER WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION. That being said, there are even some C5 and C6 open trackers/road racers/etc. who use an even setup all around as well.

This post has been edited by dailydriver: Jun 5 2012, 10:27 PM

[pharmd]

A lot of peeps on here do not like Corbeau because NOTHING they make currently (INCLUDING their one piece, fiberglass composite, 'racing' shells) meets FIA/SFI/etc. safety specs/homologations.

IF you could afford to step up to; Momo, Racetech, specific Sparcos/Cobras, etc. {Recaro shells are OK, but over-priced for what they are} it would be A LOT more acceptable on here (AND better for your OWN safety!).

The dilemma is that recliners (even 'race-type/shaped/BIG bolstered ones) are NOT very safe in an all-out/full-on road course situation (besides NOT meeting those afforementioned safety specs), and one piece 'shells'/alloy seats are NOT very safe/durable for street use unless you have at least a GOOD 4 pt. bar with a SOLID backbraced harness bar (which, as Alan said IS a liability on the street, if not an out and out safety/inspection/LEO issue). (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

3.73s with a stock MN6 ratioed T56 in an LS1 f body will give you the same overall ratios as a stock 3.42/MN12 T56 boxed C5 Z06. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I was regretting not getting the Tick master when I did my LS7 clutch setup, now after hearing your comment on them, I'm glad I went with the stock piece!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (But I did get their remote speed bleeder, which I love!)

I know it is THE 'thing' in Pro Touring (especially on the 1st and 2nd gens), but EVERYONE on here has an extreme dislike for 'staggered' wheel/tire setups (for handling/balance reasons).

The reason C5/6 Vettes can get away with it is lighter overall weight, and more importantly, BETTER WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION. That being said, there are even some C5 and C6 open trackers/road racers/etc. who use an even setup all around as well.

OK, so I have 2 questions, 1) do you have model numbers or specific suggestions of a fixed back seat that meets safety requirements AND it comfortable enough to sit in if you were gonna drive the car a long distance to an event?

2) wheel/tire Selection: which diameter has everyone found to work best (or is most accepted)? Is running the largest tire front and rear (if they are staggered a bad thing (say 285-295 front, 315 rear), or would 285-295 all around be a better setup? Is their a particular wheel/tire combo that isn't Forgeline prices, that has made a good/acceptable combo?

The only wheel/tire restrictions are 200 treadwear minimum rule.
I don't know what some of these protouring cars actually turn on tracks everyone runs (for comparison), I know times are probably out there if i searched long enough, but I find it hard to believe that they are all show and no go. The events that I have been to in person, these cars are rolling out pretty well. I guess last year Danny Popp's c6Z won @ OUSCI, a 500+rwhp c6z with wheel/tire/suspension etc I think most would agree is a formidable setup, and it wasn't much faster or quicker than a lot of these 1st/2nd Gen fbodies. I realize I don't have the pockets to spend like these guys, but I think I'm stubborn enough to believe I can put together a competitive setup....with your guys help that is. I want t represent the 4th Gen to the best of my ability

This post has been edited by pharmd: Jun 6 2012, 12:50 AM