[FASTFATBOY]

Since the 3000 mile whipping the car got on the Power Tour and the optima Faceoff the rear end sounds like a cement mixer.

What is my best option?

I haven't torn into the rear end to inspect but will next week.

With the miles I am afraid the axles are shot, I don't think its a good idea to use "axle saver" bearings as they move the bearings inboard and stress the axle face more.

Rebuild bearing/seal kits are around $200.

The gears with those miles should be ok, would you change them?

Thanks in advance.

[Blainefab]

Since the 3000 mile whipping the car got on the Power Tour and the optima Faceoff the rear end sounds like a cement mixer.

What is my best option?

I haven't torn into the rear end to inspect but will next week.

With the miles I am afraid the axles are shot, I don't think its a good idea to use "axle saver" bearings as they move the bearings inboard and stress the axle face more.

Rebuild bearing/seal kits are around $200.

The gears with those miles should be ok, would you change them?

Thanks in advance.

I have a 3rd/4th gen axle package available: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=8546 I also have axle end bearings and seals in stock.

The gears and carrier bearings will last a long time if the lube is adequate and not run low. In my experience, the first thing to go on a 10bolt is the pinion seal, then the axle end bearings and seals. I've replaced many diffs, and the carrier bearings always look OK unless the diff has been spewing and grinding chunks of metal.

Plumbing a 3/8" hose to a catch tank will go a long ways towards keeping the gear lube on the inside, too. Pull the plastic vent thing out, clean up the hole and JB weld a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting in its place, route the hose upward so vapors condense and run back in.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jun 15 2012, 06:14 PM