[HoosierPE]

Greetings fellow F-body enthusiast!

I've created this new topic to introduce Hoosier Performance Engineering's first new product; a clean sheet approach to a billet front hub and bearing assembly for the 4th Gen F-bodies and C4 Corvettes. Many of the other hub/bearing threads are getting pretty long and don't really end with a sustainable solution, so I thought a new thread was in order.

I won't bore you with the details on HPE, other than to say a group of highly qualified and skilled automotive engineers have gotten together to create performance products for the 4th Gens and modern muscle cars. You can read more about HPE on the General Discussions forum where Kevin introduced HPE as a new sponsor.

I've been contemplating the 4th Gen front hub issues since I returned to Auto-X in the fall of '97 with the purchase of my first TA and began working in earnest on new designs in November of last year. What you see below is the result of two gear-heads' work for the past 7 or 8 months, plus over $6000 worth of invested in prototypes, tooling and CNC programming. Prototypes are installed and accumulating mileage and we will be ready to take orders as soon as the machine shop volume quotation is received and final pricing can is set. (Trying to wrap up pricing yet this week.)

I'll let the pictures do the talking first, and then will follow up with some detailed descriptions of the components. Enjoy.

Finished product:
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1014542_375876139190953_1528206097_o.jpg) , (IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/976331_375876125857621_1907471607_o.jpg)

Here's a disassembled OEM hub and the new HPE replacement parts. Note the OEM uses ball bearings while the other is tapered roller. On Timken's website, the tapered bearings are rated much higher in every category vs. the ball bearings. Small bearing has a 1.25" ID and the large bearing has an 1.5" ID. For comparison, the old GM RWD cars used like 7/8" and 1" bearings with the front spindle design.
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1009411_377277199050847_782089290_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999016_377277289050838_494724905_n.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1009351_377277345717499_1374075883_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1015137_377277329050834_2109600006_o.jpg)

We use an inverted spindle design, much like OEM part, except ours is a two piece design with a wheel mounting flange and pin (spindle) that we shrink fit together. The shrink fit provides three times the push out force of an equivalent press fit. Pin, flange and housing were all coated with a clear zinc treatment. The pin has been case hardened in the two areas where the bearing races will rest. The mounting flange is case hardened where the seal will run. Specs were per the Timken recommendations for the bearings used.
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1008279_375876219190945_1586806985_o.jpg)

Pin with locking washer, nut and small cap screws. The washer engages the key way in the in threaded end of the pin, the nut is added and torqued to desired preload, and when the threaded holes in the nut lines up with the holes in the washer, the cap screws are added as the retention mechanism, basically replacing the cotter pin in similar parts.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1014577_375876269190940_1184777397_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1015262_375876245857609_442072466_o.jpg)

Sub-assembly shown with dry bearings for clarity.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1015600_377277409050826_1257648155_o.jpg)

These assemblies are completely rebuildable and repackable. Should be the last set you will ever need.

I will add some more pictures of the prototypes installed on one of our cars.

Please let me know what you think!

[Steve91T]

I would buy one just to put in a display case. The most beautiful car part I think I've ever seen.

Maybe I missed it, or maybe you aren't announcing it yet, but any idea how much they will cost? I would assume with any race specific part, there won't be a warranty, right?

[HoosierPE]

I would buy one just to put in a display case. The most beautiful car part I think I've ever seen.

Maybe I missed it, or maybe you aren't announcing it yet, but any idea how much they will cost? I would assume with any race specific part, there won't be a warranty, right?

No, I haven't presented a cost as yet. I just received the volume quote from my machine shop last night while I was at the drag strip, and to my relief his cost was pretty much inline with my expectations. I've been working this afternoon on the complete Bill of Materials (BoM) so that I could completely understand my total cost for each assembly, and then I can set the price accordingly. I should have a price posted sometime tomorrow, and it should be in the ballpark of the MJM Racing re-manufactured parts from the 2010 time-frame, or in the $650ish each range, plus or minus a bit. I do get significant reductions in my machining cost at the 50 and 100 pc batch levels that can help bring the price down. (If you are really interested in purchasing a set, please let us know so we can get a head count for the first patch of parts.)

In regards to the warranty question, you are correct, no implied or explicit warranty due to the racing application. Of course, out of the desire to happy customers and good customer relations, we will deal with any issues that may arise in a professional manner and to the mutual satisfaction of both parties. Quite honestly, these things are way over designed. We considered smaller bearing sets, similar to the ones used in the older GM full size vans or pickup trucks, just to keep the cost down and the replacement parts readily available. These would likely have worked just fine, but we didn't want to any short cuts and want a part you could install and never worry about again, regardless of your use profile. We think we have hit that mark with our hub assembly. Our calculations were showing infinite life with very high G-loading (think soft compound 315s) and continuous high speeds. I'm going to send the bearing and loadings to Stan and let him run the calculations as a second opinion. Keep them greased and clean, and they should last the life of your car.