[HoosierPE]

Greetings fellow F-body enthusiast!

I've created this new topic to introduce Hoosier Performance Engineering's first new product; a clean sheet approach to a billet front hub and bearing assembly for the 4th Gen F-bodies and C4 Corvettes. Many of the other hub/bearing threads are getting pretty long and don't really end with a sustainable solution, so I thought a new thread was in order.

I won't bore you with the details on HPE, other than to say a group of highly qualified and skilled automotive engineers have gotten together to create performance products for the 4th Gens and modern muscle cars. You can read more about HPE on the General Discussions forum where Kevin introduced HPE as a new sponsor.

I've been contemplating the 4th Gen front hub issues since I returned to Auto-X in the fall of '97 with the purchase of my first TA and began working in earnest on new designs in November of last year. What you see below is the result of two gear-heads' work for the past 7 or 8 months, plus over $6000 worth of invested in prototypes, tooling and CNC programming. Prototypes are installed and accumulating mileage and we will be ready to take orders as soon as the machine shop volume quotation is received and final pricing can is set. (Trying to wrap up pricing yet this week.)

I'll let the pictures do the talking first, and then will follow up with some detailed descriptions of the components. Enjoy.

Finished product:
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1014542_375876139190953_1528206097_o.jpg) , (IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/976331_375876125857621_1907471607_o.jpg)

Here's a disassembled OEM hub and the new HPE replacement parts. Note the OEM uses ball bearings while the other is tapered roller. On Timken's website, the tapered bearings are rated much higher in every category vs. the ball bearings. Small bearing has a 1.25" ID and the large bearing has an 1.5" ID. For comparison, the old GM RWD cars used like 7/8" and 1" bearings with the front spindle design.
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1009411_377277199050847_782089290_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999016_377277289050838_494724905_n.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1009351_377277345717499_1374075883_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1015137_377277329050834_2109600006_o.jpg)

We use an inverted spindle design, much like OEM part, except ours is a two piece design with a wheel mounting flange and pin (spindle) that we shrink fit together. The shrink fit provides three times the push out force of an equivalent press fit. Pin, flange and housing were all coated with a clear zinc treatment. The pin has been case hardened in the two areas where the bearing races will rest. The mounting flange is case hardened where the seal will run. Specs were per the Timken recommendations for the bearings used.
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1008279_375876219190945_1586806985_o.jpg)

Pin with locking washer, nut and small cap screws. The washer engages the key way in the in threaded end of the pin, the nut is added and torqued to desired preload, and when the threaded holes in the nut lines up with the holes in the washer, the cap screws are added as the retention mechanism, basically replacing the cotter pin in similar parts.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1014577_375876269190940_1184777397_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1015262_375876245857609_442072466_o.jpg)

Sub-assembly shown with dry bearings for clarity.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1015600_377277409050826_1257648155_o.jpg)

These assemblies are completely rebuildable and repackable. Should be the last set you will ever need.

I will add some more pictures of the prototypes installed on one of our cars.

Please let me know what you think!

[HoosierPE]

The wheel mounting flange, where the rotor hat sits and then the wheel, is in the same location as the factory hub/bearing assembly, when measured from the knuckle mounting face to the outer face of the wheel mounting flange. We run 17x11s with 315s and we didn't want to mess up our current solution for making those fit in the front. We briefly considered makeing changes to eliminate the need for an 1/8th or 1/4" spacer, it's not possible within just the hub & bearing assembly, you'd have to modify the upright as well.

Here's a comparison picture of the mounting surfaces and offset:
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1008346_375876005857633_1174373569_o.jpg)

If you think you see a difference, it's likely an illusion with a shinny new vs. crummy looking old part. Also, our housing diameter between the wheel flange and housing mounting flange is almost a half inch larger than the stock part to accommodate the larger tapered bearings. It is a direct replacement and your wheel/tire offset will be identical to how it was with your old bearings.

Also, just did a trial fit on a '91 C4 Corvette and they will bolt right up. I'll load some pictures later today. We may offer a version without the taped holes, but we need to see if we can get an Allen head cap screw to fit next to our larger housing diameter, it doesn't look like the factory C4 bolts will. If there is not enough room for the head to fit, then the C4 owners will need to run the bolts in from the back side and work out a different retention for the ABS wire bracket that uses the ends of the top two bolts.