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#1
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 21-August 11 Member No.: 99,965 ![]() |
What are you F-body guys who are primarily streetcars and some autoX using for torque arms? Right now I'm stock. I have been bent on the idea of a global west trac link after the SOTP feel in a friend's car. But now I'm thinking a simple full length adjustable like the UMI 2205 should do the job without feeling too noticeable and noisy. What's your opinion?
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#2
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I ran the stock TA in my ITE 4th gen, with a poly bushing. Watch for cracks at the narrow spots at the bolt holes in the rear. The rear of the car was fussy about the tightness of the shock mounts, if rodend shock ends are legal in your class that would make more difference than an aftermarket long TA.
A common complaint of the stock TA is tearing up the mount, and/or damaging the trans. I was using a ES poly trans mount, a fresh one every season or 2, and a poly TA mount, with no issues. I suspect some of the problems other folks are having are from letting the OEM rubber TA mount/trans mounts disintegrate, allowing that stuff to flop around and beat things up. The upper bolt on the TA mount clamshell is easy to crossthread, I have the helicoil kit for that. The only possible advantage I can see to a properly designed aftermarket long TA is on a street car that can't tolerate the vibes from a poly trans mount - if the TA is mounted to the trans Kmember instead, it may reduce NVH. Or, of course if you are drag racing or doing Pro Solo launches and breaking the OEM TA. All the aftemarket long arms are heavy. The GW TA is not decoupled, it is just short. It is very heavy. Watch the classisfieds for a used one if you want to try it, I have personally removed them and installed the UE DCTA on 3 cars. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 15th May 2025 - 09:56 PM |