[FASTFATBOY]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

[Blainefab]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

You were using those aluminum spacers on the rear bumps stops? They were included in the early cars with 17 x 275's to limit rear bump travel so the tires didn't scuff up the inner fenderwells. They eliminate most of the rear suspension travel, they belong in the GM bucket of shame, not on a car. They were likely a major contributor to your oversteer problem. I suggest putting telltales on the bump stop, then driving for a session - if the axle contacts them under normal driving conditions then trim 1/4" off of the tips - repeat until no contact. With 275 or larger rubber you'll need rolled fender lips, hammered inner fenders, and a rod end panhard.

Bigger bars = less body roll. Make sure the the Dbushings are lubricated well, and the end links are not overtightened, esp if you are using poly bushings. The OEM style end links bind.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Nov 23 2013, 11:36 PM

[FASTFATBOY]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

You were using those aluminum spacers on the rear bumps stops? They were included in the early cars with 17 x 275's to limit rear bump travel so the tires didn't scuff up the inner fenderwells. They eliminate most of the rear suspension travel, they belong in the GM bucket of shame, not on a car. They were likely a major contributor to your oversteer problem. I suggest putting telltales on the bump stop, then driving for a session - if the axle contacts them under normal driving conditions then trim 1/4" off of the tips - repeat until no contact. With 275 or larger rubber you'll need rolled fender lips, hammered inner fenders, and a rod end panhard.

Bigger bars = less body roll. Make sure the the Dbushings are lubricated well, and the end links are not overtightened, esp if you are using poly bushings. The OEM style end links bind.

What do I need to trim the stops with?

I really need to do all that to the rear fenders with a 275 tire?

How do you know if you over tighten the end links? They aren't bottomed out but are tight. They are poly also.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Nov 24 2013, 01:14 AM

[Blainefab]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

You were using those aluminum spacers on the rear bumps stops? They were included in the early cars with 17 x 275's to limit rear bump travel so the tires didn't scuff up the inner fenderwells. They eliminate most of the rear suspension travel, they belong in the GM bucket of shame, not on a car. They were likely a major contributor to your oversteer problem. I suggest putting telltales on the bump stop, then driving for a session - if the axle contacts them under normal driving conditions then trim 1/4" off of the tips - repeat until no contact. With 275 or larger rubber you'll need rolled fender lips, hammered inner fenders, and a rod end panhard.

Bigger bars = less body roll. Make sure the the Dbushings are lubricated well, and the end links are not overtightened, esp if you are using poly bushings. The OEM style end links bind.

What do I need to trim the stops with?

I really need to do all that to the rear fenders with a 275 tire?

How do you know if you over tighten the end links? They aren't bottomed out but are tight. They are poly also.

Hacksaw or knife will trim them.

Depends on a lot of things, but ya, with sticky tires you'll rub. Pontiacs have more room. Rodend PH limits lateral deflection.

Try a turn or 2 past being able to spin the sleeve with your fingers.

[FASTFATBOY]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

You were using those aluminum spacers on the rear bumps stops? They were included in the early cars with 17 x 275's to limit rear bump travel so the tires didn't scuff up the inner fenderwells. They eliminate most of the rear suspension travel, they belong in the GM bucket of shame, not on a car. They were likely a major contributor to your oversteer problem. I suggest putting telltales on the bump stop, then driving for a session - if the axle contacts them under normal driving conditions then trim 1/4" off of the tips - repeat until no contact. With 275 or larger rubber you'll need rolled fender lips, hammered inner fenders, and a rod end panhard.

Bigger bars = less body roll. Make sure the the Dbushings are lubricated well, and the end links are not overtightened, esp if you are using poly bushings. The OEM style end links bind.

What do I need to trim the stops with?

I really need to do all that to the rear fenders with a 275 tire?

How do you know if you over tighten the end links? They aren't bottomed out but are tight. They are poly also.

Hacksaw or knife will trim them.

Depends on a lot of things, but ya, with sticky tires you'll rub. Pontiacs have more room. Rodend PH limits lateral deflection.

Try a turn or 2 past being able to spin the sleeve with your fingers.

I have a rod end PHB, I will get the fenders rolled.

[Shortcutsleeping]

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

I don't know your spring rates, but I'd be ready to put that 19 rear back on the car.

A lot of this gets into what corners are important on the track you're driving as well as your preferred driving style and how you like the car to get into the corner as well as what rear diff you have and if it rolls free when not being driven.

But regardless, I'd be ready to test the 19 back on the car.


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