[FASTFATBOY]

I know you shouldn't do so many things at once.....but.

From .5 to 1.9 camber

From Carbotech XP20/XP10 pads to Raybestos ST47/ST43 pads

I drove it with the above changes 3 weeks ago and liked the car.

Then I went ahead with:

From 32/19 bars to 35/22 bars

From the black SLP axle snubbers with spacers to the white Z28 snubbers with no spacer.

From Nitto NT-05 tires to BFG R1 tires.

Any "surprises" I should look out for?

[Blainefab]

Fenders look great!

BTW if anyone else here needs to do this, I have an Eastwood roller that I loan out for the cost of shipping. It has been across the country a couple of times.

Great advice from Mr BC, too, on the endlinks

An important thought to get out of this discussion is that the suggestions we are offering are intended to get your cars setup into the ballpark before you next head to the track. Once you're at the track, to optimize the car you'll need to make adjustments based on how the car is working. I suggest making a few mental notes of the most dominant characteristics of the car during each session, and as soon as the car stops, write them down. Then write down what you are going to change, if anything, for each of those items, make the changes, and note how the car responds the next session.

We (the collective experience of FRRAX) can't possibly tell anyone EXACTLY how to set their car up optimally, we can only help get it into the ballpark so the user can fine tune it.

IIRC these are the items that we've discussed in this thread that, if you want to optimize the car, you should be prepared to change at the track:

-rear swaybar
-tire pressure
-front toe
-front end link tightness
-rear endlink tightness
-rear bump stop height
-I don't think we mentioned rake but that is an important one

[FASTFATBOY]

Fenders look great!

BTW if anyone else here needs to do this, I have an Eastwood roller that I loan out for the cost of shipping. It has been across the country a couple of times.

Great advice from Mr BC, too, on the endlinks

An important thought to get out of this discussion is that the suggestions we are offering are intended to get your cars setup into the ballpark before you next head to the track. Once you're at the track, to optimize the car you'll need to make adjustments based on how the car is working. I suggest making a few mental notes of the most dominant characteristics of the car during each session, and as soon as the car stops, write them down. Then write down what you are going to change, if anything, for each of those items, make the changes, and note how the car responds the next session.

We (the collective experience of FRRAX) can't possibly tell anyone EXACTLY how to set their car up optimally, we can only help get it into the ballpark so the user can fine tune it.

IIRC these are the items that we've discussed in this thread that, if you want to optimize the car, you should be prepared to change at the track:

-rear swaybar
-tire pressure
-front toe
-front end link tightness
-rear endlink tightness
-rear bump stop height
-I don't think we mentioned rake but that is an important one

This is why I love this board, so much GOOD knowledge and no ego's.

My car only has about 1/2-3/4 of an inch on rake if memory serves.


I do have a question Alan, I shaved a 1/4 off the bumpstops, went and drove it and got on them again( I have a light coat of red grease on the axle pads).

If I keep trimming them until they no longer touch on track, what's the point of having them on the car? Shouldn't they be touching "some"?

That's my second set of fender lips, they did turn out nice I think. The hardest part is the spot between 1 and 3 o'clock on the well, it's the way it's shaped I think.

Alan, can you break down what adjusting each way on the above items does to the car?


I am really interested to know how much quicker the car will go with the changes. I will go back to NOLA this weekend, my best lap is a 2:05 on the full north course.