[Hookdup]

New here, and seems to be the place to be....
Short history, started HPDE last fall at NJMP,
After 10 days went and bought a
1998 Trans Am, which was built by Wheel to Wheel in Detroit,
ran Motorola/Rolex GT 1998-2002, then became ITe/AIX car.

Now it's a HPDE /Track DayCar
THat I am TRYING TO SORT>>>>>>>>>>>maybe TT in the future..

MAJOR ISSUE: BRAKES SHI**TY............Must hit pedal 2x's to set up for turn....
Specs:
1998 Trans Am / 392 RWHP LS6 / Son of TransZilla T56 (yea that was a 5k mistake, visit that later)
SLP Konis, rear adjustable seats, Front NASCAR sway bay, Rear Blade Sway Bar
17x11 CCW275/40 17 R1's

Need insight on how to make this car brake as well as my 13' 1LE Camaro
currently , WW 6SLR fronts, new rotors, new hats, PBR rears
Corner balanced to 49.8 % a week ago, (still LF ride height 3/4 lower, so I screwded up
my first attempt!!!)
Car has proven history,
looking for insight on how to make right!!
Thanks from new guy,
Rich
hookdup@comc a st dott net
ps how do add pics on this forum??

[Blainefab]

You should move the accusump holddown clamps to the very ends of the cylinder - the snap ring or threads there can fail, making a big mess. Wrap the clamps around the weak point and you'll be good. Also if the clamps are real tight they could distort the cylinder shape, causing the piston to bind up.

ref: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...ost&p=88558

[Hookdup]

You should move the accusump holddown clamps to the very ends of the cylinder - the snap ring or threads there can fail, making a big mess. Wrap the clamps around the weak point and you'll be good. Also if the clamps are real tight they could distort the cylinder shape, causing the piston to bind up.

ref: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...ost&p=88558

Thanks did move them, as I was apprehensive as well, when I moved a bunch of stuff inside, the accusump was moved, to be comfortable for elbow should need be,
also switch panel moved to center,
NASA annual tech had me change braided reinforced hose, as I had a aeroquip 300 series push lok, but they preferred braided ss.
Now since I have a temp annual, I have to disassemble fuel cell to get pic of serial number of bladder,
to coincide with the receipt, which shows less than 5 years old.
is this normal?

[Blainefab]

NASA annual tech had me change braided reinforced hose, as I had a aeroquip 300 series push lok, but they preferred braided ss.
Now since I have a temp annual, I have to disassemble fuel cell to get pic of serial number of bladder,
to coincide with the receipt, which shows less than 5 years old.
is this normal?

The rule used to require metal reinforced hose in the cabin, but was recently changed to just say 'reinforced' in order to allow modern lightweight Kevlar, etc reinforced hoses. A lot of rubber automotive hose has an internal fiber reinforcement, which meets the letter of the rule, but there is no way for tech to verify the reinforcement without cutting your hose, so as a practical matter use an externally reinforced hose.

Physically matching cell marking with the receipt is thorough, not all techs will look for this detail. SOP for me when installing a bladder is to take pics of it, including the expiration date: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=156774

[Hookdup]

NASA annual tech had me change braided reinforced hose, as I had a aeroquip 300 series push lok, but they preferred braided ss.
Now since I have a temp annual, I have to disassemble fuel cell to get pic of serial number of bladder,
to coincide with the receipt, which shows less than 5 years old.
is this normal?

The rule used to require metal reinforced hose in the cabin, but was recently changed to just say 'reinforced' in order to allow modern lightweight Kevlar, etc reinforced hoses. A lot of rubber automotive hose has an internal fiber reinforcement, which meets the letter of the rule, but there is no way for tech to verify the reinforcement without cutting your hose, so as a practical matter use an externally reinforced hose.

Physically matching cell marking with the receipt is thorough, not all techs will look for this detail. SOP for me when installing a bladder is to take pics of it, including the expiration date: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=156774

Thanks,
I will try to reach out to previous Owner in WV, and see if he may have serial number pics.
Good idea to document..
Well with advent of phones and associated....
too bad gets lost in computer files......
We do have ADD, we have an Alternate Driving Disorder

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2670_08-01-2014.jpg)
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg