[Hookdup]

New here, and seems to be the place to be....
Short history, started HPDE last fall at NJMP,
After 10 days went and bought a
1998 Trans Am, which was built by Wheel to Wheel in Detroit,
ran Motorola/Rolex GT 1998-2002, then became ITe/AIX car.

Now it's a HPDE /Track DayCar
THat I am TRYING TO SORT>>>>>>>>>>>maybe TT in the future..

MAJOR ISSUE: BRAKES SHI**TY............Must hit pedal 2x's to set up for turn....
Specs:
1998 Trans Am / 392 RWHP LS6 / Son of TransZilla T56 (yea that was a 5k mistake, visit that later)
SLP Konis, rear adjustable seats, Front NASCAR sway bay, Rear Blade Sway Bar
17x11 CCW275/40 17 R1's

Need insight on how to make this car brake as well as my 13' 1LE Camaro
currently , WW 6SLR fronts, new rotors, new hats, PBR rears
Corner balanced to 49.8 % a week ago, (still LF ride height 3/4 lower, so I screwded up
my first attempt!!!)
Car has proven history,
looking for insight on how to make right!!
Thanks from new guy,
Rich
hookdup@comc a st dott net
ps how do add pics on this forum??

[Hookdup]

Did you ever check to see if your master has an internal air leak? with car off, pump up brake pedal and then hold it; does it maintain that height or does it sink back down to firewall?
Yes, checked, not a problem, not sinking

Aren't BP-10 street pads? The H pads are race pads and will bite much better and withstand the heat much better.
11.5 diameter rotors? those are tiny.
You should get the c5 front brake conversion kit so you can run 13 inch front rotors. I think its a pretty straight forward installation:
Bp-10 are street only pads according to wilwood, and after 500 degrees they disintegrate.
As far as rotor size, we are talking that the rear rotors are 11.5x.8"
Front has 13.75 wilwood gt28 2 PC. With 6 piston radial super lights (6SLR)
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/inde...products_id=158

Then get 2 piece rotors from KNS brakes. $250 each rotor/hat combo: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/166_2007...+-+Single+Rotor

Have you had the calipers rebuilt? Many do it themselves but I sent mine to Todd at TCE for the rebuild and replaced the pistons with Wilwood thermolock pistons. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

I don't have experience with these 2 items but they seem awesome:
1) Fays watts link: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7
2) Unbalanced decoupled torque arm: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

Was going to look into watts conversion, but the car has lasted 16 years this way

On a side note, the BP10 pads might be the worst pad I have used. No bite and they would fade on a brisk run down a twisty road. Would never judge a cars brakes until the pads are changed.

I am very happy with the performance of the XP10 front / xp8 rear, on my 2013 1LE. only until recently,after 10 or so
Track days, did the fronts start to shudder, may be pad transfer, but they are also down to about 30 percent left,
So they will not pass tech anyway. All total, I think they lasted abt 5000 miles, of which there was between 40-50
20-30 min tracks sessions..
And they do get hot, the silver chevrolet logo on the front calipers, is now gold, and the bright red brembos paint, is now sort of a pretty red metallic crimson color!
So that was why I went with the xp12 on the front of the trans am..
Carbotech, has been great in helping and choosing pad compounds, and provides much more personalized service.

Where does one obtain those sway bars and matching hardware?! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Try schrader for front sway bar, that's the only thing I found,
No picture or info exist anywhere I can find for the rear bar
Also, all the front suspension mounts were cut and relocated supposedly back when the car was built by wheel to wheel
In 1998, and rear may be cambered..

suggestion:
ditch that seat and get a halo seat
get netting for window and for your right arm.

like now. speaking from experience.

I do have a Simpson c5r r/s cage net installed, although not in pictures
I am looking for a halo seat, do you have any economical reco's?????
And I still have to purchase a HANS device( that will be first)

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

We had this issue on a buddies track car but both his rear brakes were lasting 3x what mine were. He was always complaining of a goofy pedal.

Make sure you don't have a heat source near a brake line boiling the fluid to the rear. Under the drivers seat the rear brake lines run right over the top of the Y pipe and there is supposed to be a heat shield right there.

Also make sure the hard line running down the rear end housing hasn't been crushed or kinked.

Will check.

So, I am looking for part numbers or kit for bigger rear rotors, and thicker, same or better per calipers
Or a kit that would work.
After talking to wilwood last evening, they said definitely do not install their rear 4 piston radial kit
On a road course car...
Unless you go to a full floating axle, so I guess that means build some sort of nascar rear, frankensteined, to fit an f body????
Thx all.....

[FASTFATBOY]

Did you ever check to see if your master has an internal air leak? with car off, pump up brake pedal and then hold it; does it maintain that height or does it sink back down to firewall?
Yes, checked, not a problem, not sinking

Aren't BP-10 street pads? The H pads are race pads and will bite much better and withstand the heat much better.
11.5 diameter rotors? those are tiny.
You should get the c5 front brake conversion kit so you can run 13 inch front rotors. I think its a pretty straight forward installation:
Bp-10 are street only pads according to wilwood, and after 500 degrees they disintegrate.
As far as rotor size, we are talking that the rear rotors are 11.5x.8"
Front has 13.75 wilwood gt28 2 PC. With 6 piston radial super lights (6SLR)
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/inde...products_id=158

Then get 2 piece rotors from KNS brakes. $250 each rotor/hat combo: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/166_2007...+-+Single+Rotor

Have you had the calipers rebuilt? Many do it themselves but I sent mine to Todd at TCE for the rebuild and replaced the pistons with Wilwood thermolock pistons. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

I don't have experience with these 2 items but they seem awesome:
1) Fays watts link: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7
2) Unbalanced decoupled torque arm: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

Was going to look into watts conversion, but the car has lasted 16 years this way

On a side note, the BP10 pads might be the worst pad I have used. No bite and they would fade on a brisk run down a twisty road. Would never judge a cars brakes until the pads are changed.

I am very happy with the performance of the XP10 front / xp8 rear, on my 2013 1LE. only until recently,after 10 or so
Track days, did the fronts start to shudder, may be pad transfer, but they are also down to about 30 percent left,
So they will not pass tech anyway. All total, I think they lasted abt 5000 miles, of which there was between 40-50
20-30 min tracks sessions..
And they do get hot, the silver chevrolet logo on the front calipers, is now gold, and the bright red brembos paint, is now sort of a pretty red metallic crimson color!
So that was why I went with the xp12 on the front of the trans am..
Carbotech, has been great in helping and choosing pad compounds, and provides much more personalized service.

Where does one obtain those sway bars and matching hardware?! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Try schrader for front sway bar, that's the only thing I found,
No picture or info exist anywhere I can find for the rear bar
Also, all the front suspension mounts were cut and relocated supposedly back when the car was built by wheel to wheel
In 1998, and rear may be cambered..

suggestion:
ditch that seat and get a halo seat
get netting for window and for your right arm.

like now. speaking from experience.

I do have a Simpson c5r r/s cage net installed, although not in pictures
I am looking for a halo seat, do you have any economical reco's?????
And I still have to purchase a HANS device( that will be first)

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

We had this issue on a buddies track car but both his rear brakes were lasting 3x what mine were. He was always complaining of a goofy pedal.

Make sure you don't have a heat source near a brake line boiling the fluid to the rear. Under the drivers seat the rear brake lines run right over the top of the Y pipe and there is supposed to be a heat shield right there.

Also make sure the hard line running down the rear end housing hasn't been crushed or kinked.

Will check.

So, I am looking for part numbers or kit for bigger rear rotors, and thicker, same or better per calipers
Or a kit that would work.
After talking to wilwood last evening, they said definitely do not install their rear 4 piston radial kit
On a road course car...
Unless you go to a full floating axle, so I guess that means build some sort of nascar rear, frankensteined, to fit an f body????
Thx all.....

These cars have too much brake on the rear to begin with, you don't need anymore.

When you hop on the brakes and you feel like you ran over 50 consecutive railroad tracks running 130 mph you'll know what I mean.

[Hookdup]

Did that with the Camaro!!!!!!!!!!
Now time for pads on that car,
which I am now using only if I have an event scheduled , with rain in forecast.
Have not made the jump to getting rains for the trans am.
Let alone, I am still running old coded bfg r1's
HArd to swallow 1300 for hoosiers, and a nother 1300 for TOYO rains...

HANS Device (Or if anyone has reco's please advise), and good brakes, then a containment seat , are more important
than going fast....

Speed will come , after safety, reliability , and a piece of mind..........

Car , guess does have capabilities, was dyno tuned at 392RWHP, after
5 pulls,,, rev limiter set to 6600, even though was still making power.
has ls6 , supposedly, based on 243 heads, and a one off Comp cams Xeir LS cam.
Not in catalog, but according to CC, is the most passive xeir lobe profile.
Lost the ram Billet Sfi aluminum fly wheel , and the 6 paddle clutch, when the trans blew up the first day out!

Needless to say it was ultimately my fault,
In a rush to load the car in the trailer, in the rain, the only thing I did not do
was check the trans fluid, as it was supposedly rebuilt by the shop, who the guy I bought it from,,, bought it from...

Was an original MBR Racing case, from Rockland standard gear,,,( THe owner of RSG actually drove this car back in 98-99 in the Motorola/Rolex GT Cup series, according to the original owner)
( Was always #46, originally MBR Racing, Then AIX/ITE at Summit Pt, and VIR, with guy from WV, from 023' to 11')

AND I SNAPPED THE INPUT SHAFT CAUSE IT WAS DRY>>>>>>
I MEAN TRANSMISSION HAD ABSOLUTELY ZERO FLUID IN IT>>>>>>>>>>

Rockland gear was great, sent me a son of tranzilla t56 27spline , with z06 forks and pads,
2 days later,
cheaped out and put an LS7 Chevrolet HP PArts clutch and fly wheel in it and away we go>>>>

LIVE AND LEARN...

This post has been edited by Hookdup: Aug 7 2014, 12:55 AM