[Steve91T]

Not the kind that make my 2 year old little girl giggle, but clunking from the diff of my stock 10 bolt.

I noticed it after my track day last week. I'll try to get a video of it tonight. If I have the engine off and let the car roll backwards down my driveway, I hear clunking. Probably not supposed to do that, huh? I did get some nasty axle hop a couple of times, I know that's hard on it.

If it's bad, I have a stock axle off my 99 parts car. I just need to swap the brake lines and brakes over. I believe that's the only difference.

[Steve91T]

I've been searching the web for way too long now on whether to use friction modifier of not and what I have concluded is there is a lot of crap information out there's.


From what I gather, the best is to use 80w90 non synthetic.


And I'm not going to use the friction modifier. Some say it will wear the auburn quicker, some say it won't but it will make it have more lock up, which is what I want. I know it will be noisy.

Since eventually I'm going to put a better LSD in there anyway, I really don't care about longevity, so I figure I have nothing to loose.

I'll do this tomorrow.

[ReEntryRacer]

I've been searching the web for way too long now on whether to use friction modifier of not and what I have concluded is there is a lot of crap information out there's.


From what I gather, the best is to use 80w90 non synthetic.


And I'm not going to use the friction modifier. Some say it will wear the auburn quicker, some say it won't but it will make it have more lock up, which is what I want. I know it will be noisy.

Since eventually I'm going to put a better LSD in there anyway, I really don't care about longevity, so I figure I have nothing to loose.

I'll do this tomorrow.

I run an Auburn Racers cone type diff in my roadracer and I run Red-Line Shockproof (the heaviest version) without any modifier. It will make noise when its coming off track if it has been really heated up. Once cooled down, turn a left and a right circle at low speed and it goes quiet again. They all do that. And they last a couple or three of season's worth of serious abuse and then slowly deteriorate. If you can afford a Racer's version (call Nancy at Auburn, it will not be sold anywhere else) it will be replaced for the same cost as the repair parts for an Eaton clutch, with a 4 year no questions warranty. The new one gets another 4 year warranty. I keep two circulating to never buy a whole diff again.