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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
http://youtu.be/3fN0aUKiJus
I threw some clips of my hop issue. Watch the shifter. I'm applying brakes smoothly and the axle still starters to shimmy. If I brake any harder, it sets it off. XP20 front pads w/c5 brakes Autozone rear pads on stock lt1 brakes Stock torque arm Relocation brackets (welded) and adjusted to lower control arms are level Abs removed Is it possible that when I removed ABS it somehow gave me too much rear brake bias? I'm thinking it has to be. |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 739 Joined: 27-June 12 Member No.: 142,453 ![]() |
I can't believe anyone would recommend removing ABS without installing a prop valve. It might be different for the LT1 cars, but I know the LS1 cars bias through the ABS module so you would absolutely need a prop valve or else it would be sending a ton of fluid to the rear.
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I can't believe anyone would recommend removing ABS without installing a prop valve. It might be different for the LT1 cars, but I know the LS1 cars bias through the ABS module so you would absolutely need a prop valve or else it would be sending a ton of fluid to the rear. Yeah it must be the lt1 guys who can get away with it, or at least some of them. Not working for me. If I'm going to have a prop valve, is it worth taking the time to run it into the cabin so I can adjust it on the fly? I'm thinking it would be. I can probably run the lines into the ash tray area where my helmet blower switch is. I just worry about having a high point in the brake line. Not sure if it'll cause problems with bleeding the brakes. This post has been edited by Steve91T: Apr 17 2016, 01:37 AM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 22nd June 2025 - 07:35 AM |