[Steve91T]

http://youtu.be/3fN0aUKiJus


I threw some clips of my hop issue. Watch the shifter. I'm applying brakes smoothly and the axle still starters to shimmy. If I brake any harder, it sets it off.

XP20 front pads w/c5 brakes
Autozone rear pads on stock lt1 brakes
Stock torque arm
Relocation brackets (welded) and adjusted to lower control arms are level
Abs removed

Is it possible that when I removed ABS it somehow gave me too much rear brake bias? I'm thinking it has to be.

[KeithO]

A few more comments:

Yes, having the proportioning valve within reach while driving will help you dial in the balance. Just be careful that you don't fall into that trap where you are always fiddling it because it is there. I've seen a lot of guys adjust shocks between runs/sessions because they had adjustable shocks and I think they started to chase their own changes to the car after a while. Also, I have seen many installed low, on the driver's side of the tranny tunnel where if you drop your right hand from the driver's seat it is right there. The advantage in this arrangement is you can minimize the length of brake line inside the car. With the pressures involved, if a line fails inside the car it would be very bad.

LT1 versus LS1 - My LT1 car had an LS1 front brake setup and I believe it still should have a proportioning valve. Pads with lower coefficient of friction on the rear can do fine adjustments to the rear brake strength but the primary adjustment has to be the pressure.

Even with my setup and weaker rear pads, I still got brake hop occasionally. I found that I would get it when conditions were optimal and when I was close to getting all of the car.

I think you will be glad you did this mod.