[Steve91T]

So I've got a 97 SS that now looks like a mismatched LS1 SS. I'm running a craigslist LT1 that's bone stock, down to the mani's and Y pipe. The engine sat for years before I got it. I did a dry compression and leak down test and my numbers were all over the place. I took the chance that it just needed to be run. Long story short, it took a while but it started to run pretty good. So now I've done 3 track days and it and it blew me away. I fully expected to go home with no less than half of the Pistons I started the day with. Not only did it not miss a beat, it used at most 1/2 quart of oil, no smoke, and seemed happy as hell all day long.

So my plan was for an LS1 swap later this year. But now I'm thinking this engine might be healthier than I thought. TT3 rules require me to have around 350 rwhp for my comp weight (3400 lbs). I can knock 100 lbs off the nose by going to an LS1 and light flywheel and clutch. The problem I have is my LT1 isn't worth anything. $500? Maybe? I figure the LS1 swap will cost me at least $3k. But LT's, cam and tune will be about $1500. I figure both should get me close enough to 350 rwhp.

Right now I'm way down on power, so I have to do something. I really want an LS1, but is it worth an extra $1500? At the same time I'm afraid I'm going to buy headers and a cam and the next day it's going to blow up. What would you guys do?

[RichJ]

Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes?

Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1.

[Steve91T]

Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes?

Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1.

I've done a lot of track days at VIR and CMP and I've never lost oil pressure with the Canton pan. The old engine I had was a 396 LT1 making 380 rwhp (i know, that's low for a stroker) and that pan was all that I needed.

The last 3 track days this year on my bone stock LT1 I never lost oil pressure in the corners. And that was on track tires pulling 1.1 g's.

A lot of people run accusumps, but in my case I don't need it.

[trackbird]

Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes?

Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1.

I've done a lot of track days at VIR and CMP and I've never lost oil pressure with the Canton pan. The old engine I had was a 396 LT1 making 380 rwhp (i know, that's low for a stroker) and that pan was all that I needed.

The last 3 track days this year on my bone stock LT1 I never lost oil pressure in the corners. And that was on track tires pulling 1.1 g's.

A lot of people run accusumps, but in my case I don't need it.

Are you relying on the factory gauge for that info? I had a 30 PSI sensor (below 30 psi it turned on an Autometer Pro light) and I saw it "constantly" autocrossing my 1992 Z28 on street tires with a TPIS oil pan (with a diamond "windage tray" and basic crank scraper). I even turned the light on with the 3 quart accusump running. This was on Sumitomo street tires. I might not have seen the light as much with a 15 psi sending unit, but 30 was my comfort limit since I might be at 6,400 rpm when the light came on. When that motor came apart (after 1,200 total miles), the #4 main bearing was wiped and the crank needed turned.

[Steve91T]

Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes?

Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1.

I've done a lot of track days at VIR and CMP and I've never lost oil pressure with the Canton pan. The old engine I had was a 396 LT1 making 380 rwhp (i know, that's low for a stroker) and that pan was all that I needed.

The last 3 track days this year on my bone stock LT1 I never lost oil pressure in the corners. And that was on track tires pulling 1.1 g's.

A lot of people run accusumps, but in my case I don't need it.

Are you relying on the factory gauge for that info? I had a 30 PSI sensor (below 30 psi it turned on an Autometer Pro light) and I saw it "constantly" autocrossing my 1992 Z28 on street tires with a TPIS oil pan (with a diamond "windage tray" and basic crank scraper). I even turned the light on with the 3 quart accusump running. This was on Sumitomo street tires. I might not have seen the light as much with a 15 psi sending unit, but 30 was my comfort limit since I might be at 6,400 rpm when the light came on. When that motor came apart (after 1,200 total miles), the #4 main bearing was wiped and the crank needed turned.

No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter.

[trackbird]

No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter.

Oh yea, I remember that gauge. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)