![]() |
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#1
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
What a PITA. Ok so I haven't cut any lines yet. But I really do want to try to get this thing by installed tomorrow. But at the same time, I don't want to have a problem that I can't fix before I have to leave Friday for the track.
The rear line is a single 1/4" line. So I need to cut the rear line that's under the car, add a fitting and flare it then connect another one to it, run it through the trans tunnel and mount it in the ash tray location. Obviously then back down again and connect to the rear of the brake line that runs to the rear. I've rented a flare tool before and it took me a couple of tries but I got it to seal. I'm afraid of cutting the rear line clean enough and making a good flare. I feel like that could be a disaster. Also, will I have a hard time bleeding the brakes with the prop. valve being mounted up so high? I might just scrap this for now since I have a track day coming up. Any help will be appreciated! |
|
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#2
|
|
FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Why are you putting a valve in it? Are you having rear brake bias issues? Run parts store pads on the rear, take a spare set and drive it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Old brake lines get brittle. They like to crack when you flare them. The older they are, the worse the problem can be. If I had a paid for track day coming up in a day or two, I'd leave that project alone. If you are getting brake hop, put a much less aggressive pad on the rear and watch your downshifts. I suspect that will get you through, particularly after you get some heat in the brakes and the rears start fading a bit. |
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 18th June 2025 - 10:04 PM |