[Steve91T]

What a PITA. Ok so I haven't cut any lines yet. But I really do want to try to get this thing by installed tomorrow. But at the same time, I don't want to have a problem that I can't fix before I have to leave Friday for the track.

The rear line is a single 1/4" line. So I need to cut the rear line that's under the car, add a fitting and flare it then connect another one to it, run it through the trans tunnel and mount it in the ash tray location. Obviously then back down again and connect to the rear of the brake line that runs to the rear.

I've rented a flare tool before and it took me a couple of tries but I got it to seal. I'm afraid of cutting the rear line clean enough and making a good flare. I feel like that could be a disaster. Also, will I have a hard time bleeding the brakes with the prop. valve being mounted up so high?

I might just scrap this for now since I have a track day coming up.

Any help will be appreciated!

[Pranav]

Anyways to answer your question, it is a "1/4" size line but usually it is metric bubble line on both ends. You can try use a regular double flare as this is how mine was setup originally (bias valve mounted in bay connected to stock line with remote wilwood cable). I'm not sure if having you valve up high in the ash tray (close to trans tunnel?) would be an issue for bleeding as long as it is lower than the master cylinder; usually a pressure bleeder would make quick work of that.

I don't recall the stock line being very easy to flare compared to aftermarket line you can buy when making your own lines.

To do it right, IMO, I would rip out the stock line and run it through the cabin as 3/16 line with adapters front/rear.

This post has been edited by Pranav: Apr 6 2017, 04:57 AM

[Racerdad916]

Anyways to answer your question, it is a "1/4" size line but usually it is metric bubble line on both ends. You can try use a regular double flare as this is how mine was setup originally (bias valve mounted in bay connected to stock line with remote wilwood cable). I'm not sure if having you valve up high in the ash tray (close to trans tunnel?) would be an issue for bleeding as long as it is lower than the master cylinder; usually a pressure bleeder would make quick work of that.

I don't recall the stock line being very easy to flare compared to aftermarket line you can buy when making your own lines.

To do it right, IMO, I would rip out the stock line and run it through the cabin as 3/16 line with adapters front/rear.

The OE line and the green coated line from the local parts houses are usually hard to flare. The flaring kit from Mastercool makes flaring ridiculously easy, buts its a bit pricey. The kit is kinda like a sawzall. Once you use it, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. If you do as many brake/fuel lines as I do, it'll be well worth the money.
Mastercool p/n 71475PRC does 45 degree double flare, metric bubble flare, fuel line oring flare and A/C line o-ring flare.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastercool-71475-P...r-/271530708754
I mounted my adjustable bias valve just behind the shifter and it will gravity bleed at the rear calipers. I have a knob that will go through the console to adjust it, but, once I set it with the stock pads, I don't have to mess with it.