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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
What a PITA. Ok so I haven't cut any lines yet. But I really do want to try to get this thing by installed tomorrow. But at the same time, I don't want to have a problem that I can't fix before I have to leave Friday for the track.
The rear line is a single 1/4" line. So I need to cut the rear line that's under the car, add a fitting and flare it then connect another one to it, run it through the trans tunnel and mount it in the ash tray location. Obviously then back down again and connect to the rear of the brake line that runs to the rear. I've rented a flare tool before and it took me a couple of tries but I got it to seal. I'm afraid of cutting the rear line clean enough and making a good flare. I feel like that could be a disaster. Also, will I have a hard time bleeding the brakes with the prop. valve being mounted up so high? I might just scrap this for now since I have a track day coming up. Any help will be appreciated! |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 666 Joined: 30-January 15 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 223,855 ![]() |
So the consensus seems to be, don't install a prop valve if you don't already have one and instead tune brake bias with pad compound? I don't have brake hop, I just want the rears to actually do something. They don't really do much on a stock 3rd gen.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 2nd August 2025 - 06:14 AM |