[Steve91T]

What a PITA. Ok so I haven't cut any lines yet. But I really do want to try to get this thing by installed tomorrow. But at the same time, I don't want to have a problem that I can't fix before I have to leave Friday for the track.

The rear line is a single 1/4" line. So I need to cut the rear line that's under the car, add a fitting and flare it then connect another one to it, run it through the trans tunnel and mount it in the ash tray location. Obviously then back down again and connect to the rear of the brake line that runs to the rear.

I've rented a flare tool before and it took me a couple of tries but I got it to seal. I'm afraid of cutting the rear line clean enough and making a good flare. I feel like that could be a disaster. Also, will I have a hard time bleeding the brakes with the prop. valve being mounted up so high?

I might just scrap this for now since I have a track day coming up.

Any help will be appreciated!

[GCrites80s]

So the consensus seems to be, don't install a prop valve if you don't already have one and instead tune brake bias with pad compound? I don't have brake hop, I just want the rears to actually do something. They don't really do much on a stock 3rd gen.

[trackbird]

So the consensus seems to be, don't install a prop valve if you don't already have one and instead tune brake bias with pad compound? I don't have brake hop, I just want the rears to actually do something. They don't really do much on a stock 3rd gen.

A proportioning valve can be a useful tool for tuning the brakes. This is particularly true on LS1 cars because they typically have too much rear brake from the factory due to the larger rear brake package. You can also try to correct this with pad compound.

If you have a car that has minimal rear braking, a proportioning valve is likely not going to help you much. In that case I'd add slightly more aggressive rear pads until things balance out a bit better.

One warning, running a mix of more and less aggressive pads can result in weird brake bias changes throughout an autocross run. I used to run XP10 fronts and XP8 rears. When cold, the rears worked "sooner" than the fronts. As the brakes heated up, the fronts got better and if I really beat on the brakes, the rears would start to fade a slight bit. So every corner had different brake bias and you never knew exactly what you were going to get at the next corner.