[Steve91T]

What a PITA. Ok so I haven't cut any lines yet. But I really do want to try to get this thing by installed tomorrow. But at the same time, I don't want to have a problem that I can't fix before I have to leave Friday for the track.

The rear line is a single 1/4" line. So I need to cut the rear line that's under the car, add a fitting and flare it then connect another one to it, run it through the trans tunnel and mount it in the ash tray location. Obviously then back down again and connect to the rear of the brake line that runs to the rear.

I've rented a flare tool before and it took me a couple of tries but I got it to seal. I'm afraid of cutting the rear line clean enough and making a good flare. I feel like that could be a disaster. Also, will I have a hard time bleeding the brakes with the prop. valve being mounted up so high?

I might just scrap this for now since I have a track day coming up.

Any help will be appreciated!

[JimMueller]

I installed a Wilwood dial BPV between the reservoir & ABS last year, and bought a brake pressure tester to see how much the pressure was dropping. With the BPV full open, max rear pressure was 1125-1150psi, and it dropped to 700psi at max restriction. It also didn't fall off during testing, which was probably 5-10s with the pedal hard to the floor. I haven't raced my car since 2009, but after installing the BPV I went through 3 or 4 rear compounds before settling on the Akebono ASP749's (DOT GG edge code). My goal was to creep up on the edge of rear brake lockup and then dial it out with the BPV. But the BPV is still wide open and I'm not aware of a slightly more aggressive compound which would meet my criteria. The Akebono has very little dust and no noise (neither matter in a race environment obviously), but just enough grip where drivers can feel the rear 'sit down' a bit. I've not been able to get the rears to lock up yet in daily driving, but obviously it's not driven in anger as it once was.

On a tangent, the front G-Loc R6's dust and squeal more than the DS-2500, stopping power is better though, and equally easy on the rotors. DTC-30's still have better stopping power, but gouge the rotors, squeal more often and dust slightly worse. The R6 dust comes off pretty well after numerous cycles of wet/dry (I still use Sonax wheel cleaner), there are some areas where the compound stubbornly clings to the wheel. But at least it doesn't melt into the wheel like the DTC-30 dust.