[Steve91T]

That’s what the fastest Vette in my class beat me by. My goal in life is to be faster than those guys.

I already posted this video, but for reference, here it is again. The lap timer was lagging for some reason, but you get the idea.


https://youtu.be/CUAtHvo7mTo


My LSD is completely shot. I’m losing tons of time out of right handers. I have to manage the right rear wheel spin until the wheel is damn near straight then I can get on the gas. I’d be willing to bet I’m loosing a full 2-3 seconds just from that alone. Then there are the brakes. I have to be very careful and can’t get on them hard because of axle hop. Once I install the bias controller, I’ll be able to get on the brakes much harder and sooner after jumping off the gas. I’m thinking maybe another full second a lap there.

So with those two things, that’s already 3-4 seconds. What’s cool is I’m under power and over weight and even then, I’ll be in the upper 1:40’s. That’s a very respectable time. Even right now, people were surprised that I’m in the low 1:50’s.

More power will come when I swap an LS1 along with 120lbs of lightness between engine and transmission and UMI crossmember.

What are your thoughts on Lexan rear glass? Worth the price?

I’m also thinking about stepping up to 18’s and running a 295 tire, the widest NT01. Maybe someday they’ll make a 315.

I’ve read a lot about Shocks. Mine are adjustable Koni fronts and Sams revalved rears. I’m thinking UMI’s shock package would probably help, but I’m not sure.

What else?

Front aero?

Remember the car needs to stay street legal.

With the brake bias fixed and a working LSD, I would have been faster than the majority of the cars there. That’s pretty exciting. With some more work, it’ll be track monster.

Thanks guys!

https://flic.kr/p/ZtGV53

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Nov 15 2017, 06:15 PM

[trackbird]

I’m not moving the battery, I’m going to get a lightweight battery in the stock location when my full size one does, which will be soon because mine is old.

You're never going to win with that attitude. You need to talk to TJ some more. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

About the tires....I think the 315’s on 18’s are going to have to be the last thing I do. I’m going to max out what I can do on 275’s and see how far I get. I keep hearing how Hoosiers are really fast, but only for 1 weekend or even less! 315’s are $400 per tire! That’s a crazy amount of money. Now if I can start winning in my class, I can end up taking home a couple of Hoosiers, but that means I’d have to beat the Vettes. My NT01’s are so consinstant that it’s crazy. Old, new, it doesn’t matter. That means I can run all season on one set, which means I can race more often.

Brakes are the same. My C5’s with Carbotech XP-20’s last forever. Awesome pad. I’m going to switch to the G-loc pad when the time comes (same pad).

I’m really curious to see what kind of a difference the brake bias and lsd make. I felt like I was only able to apply about 2/3’s brake before the rears would start to lock. And I was definitely waiting what felt like forever to be able to put the power down coming out of the turns. Those two things will be a good indication of where I stand right now.

As far as the power...I think TT3 is where I want to stay. It’ll allow me about 350 ish rwhp which is a good number. Enough power to be fun but not so much that I start breaking stuff. A stock LS1 with a very small cam will get there. My dad’s 1SC with a mild cam and stock exhaust manifolds makes 360.

If I can start doing well in my class and come home with a couple of Hoosiers, that would make a big difference, otherwise I don’t think there’s any way I can justify nearly $2k in tires a weekend...I know I can’t.

Going faster costs more money. Going 11 seconds faster costs a lot more money. Tires and driver are the two most important things for speed. If your tires last all season, they are not the fastest tires. I'm sure you can find gains from tweaking things, but you're going to have to re-tweak everything when you step up to real tires in a real size. The suspension's job is to keep the tires happy, and changing them will affect the entire setup.

He's right. If you're going to beat Corvettes in a Camaro, you're going to have to be spending a fortune on tires and other things. Otherwise, the best advice I can give you is to buy a Corvette. If you're ok with having fun and running mid pack, then you're all ready to go. If you want to win in a class full of Corvettes and you can't out HP them...you're going to have to out tire them. By a LOT. You'll need the fastest tires you can find for a handful of laps at a time.

I bought a C4 a few years ago. The shocks had no oil in them. It was like driving without shocks. I'm almost embarrassed to tell you how well the car changed directions "anyway". Even with virtually no damping. I put a set of cheap Monroe Sensatrac shocks on it so I could drive it for tuning purposes and the car was remarkable (considering it was on junk shocks and the softest factory suspension package). The low center of gravity and IRS, and the ability to brake as hard as I wanted without wheel hop was eye opening. And this was basically the Corvette equivalent of driving a stock Z28 on OEM springs and shocks and swaybars. The deficit is huge between a Camaro and a Corvette. If you can't beat 'em, JOIN 'EM. And that's my best advice.

[landstuhltaylor]

I've spent a grand total of $250 on tires this year. 5 brand new 335s, 4 used ones. Have a few events on them this year and will likely last me all of 2018.

[Steve91T]

I've spent a grand total of $250 on tires this year. 5 brand new 335s, 4 used ones. Have a few events on them this year and will likely last me all of 2018.

Hoosiers? How is that possible? How long do they last?