[CrashTestDummy]

I took the blower out of our 92 to replace it, and it appears that the blower cage is pressed on. I can see little, rusty, splines on the shaft, and no nut, nor threads for a nut. The replacement motor has a nut on the end to hold the cage on. I've hit the stud with PB Blaster and after sitting a while, tapped on it with a small hammer. No budge.

Is it really pressed on, and, if so, what's the trick for getting it off? Thanks.

[CrashTestDummy]

Got more quality time with our B4C today. With a charged battery, the endoscope worked fine, letting me locate the u-joint and socket. It took longer to straighten out the scope head than to find the parts. With them back in my possession, I taped them together and then taped that assembly to an extension. I figured it wouldn't have as much chance of disappearing with the extra length, and if it did come loose, I could hopefully easily locate it with a magnet.

There is NO way the replacement metal cage will work in the car without modifying the evaporator housing. The boss for the lower right (as sitting in the car) blower screw continued to be a source of noise any time I ran the motor. A few licks of that boss with the die grinder got things quiet again. I'll note that in my review of the part. The OEM wheel is plastic, and, as designed, is missing the ridge used to put the two metal pieces together that make up the metal wheel. I'm guessing a non-A/C wheel might work better, but I had the one for an A/C car, and made it work. The mod didn't take much time, but I sure wasted a lot of time and energy trying to make the replacement wheel work.

I could not get the OEM wheel to come off the old motor. Even after spraying the stud with PB Blaster, AND heating the wheel with a heat gun, I proceeded to mushroom the end of the stud with a hammer, with no notable movement of the wheel from the stud. It's now in the trash.

After putting things back together, I ran the requisite tests, and everything seemed to work except getting voltage from the orange wire to the blower relay at a switch setting other than high. Since things _seemed_ okay under the hood, unless I have a broken wire, I went into the cabin. I pulled the console cover, radio and A/C 'head unit' and unplugged the blower control rotary switch. The connectors looked badly burned. When I ordered the replacement motor, I also picked up a blower control switch, so I plugged it in, and SUCCESSFULLY got the blower to work!! I was pretty done from all the futzing with the blower motor itself, so shut down for the day. I'll replace the rotary switch tomorrow and button everything up. Probably clean some things and put a coat of semi-gloss black paint on the dash screws. They had a light haze of rust on them.