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LS1 Inside! / Toolbox / Mechanical Engineer ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 5-February 04 From: NJ Member No.: 179 ![]() |
I've tried just about everywhere around town looking for T-bar aluminum to make the front lexan windshield braces. Anybody have any ideas? I hit up Lowes, HD, True-Value, and the large private owned shop that has a warehouse full of materials.
It's 1" x 1/8" x 96". Where can I find it? Online is cool too. |
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Benched Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 535 Joined: 16-March 04 From: Northern California Member No.: 273 ![]() |
QUOTE (Teutonic Speedracer @ Mar 1 2005, 09:14 AM) #07 - I was looking over your pictures. Thanks! How come you have the rear brace on the inside? Shouldn't it be on the outside to keep the lexan from blowing outward? You know I did think that through. I have seen some on the outside,and some like mine. I think it looks better on the inside. My solution if there is an issue with the buldging or flexing out (remember it 3/16") is a) move them outside window b ) simply put 6 more fasteners 3 each brace. Think nice looking fasteners aluminum perhaps and rubber washers to seal and protect the polycarbonate. Now Randys idea or point you dog is a hellofva great idea. It seems the right way makes sense to me. 1" flat running the entire length on the outside poly sandwiched between it and T-bar. And the flat attached with counter sunk flat head bolts about a 12 ..sweet. Is that right Randy? Honestly though I think it is a non-issue might wait that one out. But Randys point,Oh boy easy to do no reworking period,would look good ,and funtional :7 month sigh: and 20 more bux. The front window was easier.I only had to trim one edge, a vertical edge. I went a little loose with drawing the line w/ sharpy say 1/4" from net. Knowing that as it was fastened down was going to grow. My experince with the rear poly taught me that. I also knew off the bat its not just start drilling and screwwing/riveting. I started at one edge Driver pillar put all of the fastenerin on it. Then worked it in the passenger direction top and bottom getting the sheet evenly attached and flattened. You don't really want to jump around and like attach a point 18" from you and then fill in not good warpage can occur. Or drill to many points at a time work slowly.This did not happen to me just know it'll happen. And I have it in there great all edges are right there I'm pretty picky about stuff like that trust me it good. I used flat head coutersunk stainless screws for fasteners. Good stuff not that China crap. But some use rivets ehhh glad I didnt. I already have it back off (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) easy on off. I'm most likely adding aluminum clips near future. The rear you arent doing so I wont go to far there. But it was trimming sides and entire bottom. And a secondary trim after it was affixed, it grows. But the molding on this Percys Speedglass...well makes it VERY DOABLE!! Luckily I have the stock rear glass here unbroken, can you say template. BTW the way the braces are in the rear REALLY tightened up the hatch. Those hatches sans glass not good. Tony |
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