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LS1 Inside! / Toolbox / Mechanical Engineer ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 5-February 04 From: NJ Member No.: 179 ![]() |
I've tried just about everywhere around town looking for T-bar aluminum to make the front lexan windshield braces. Anybody have any ideas? I hit up Lowes, HD, True-Value, and the large private owned shop that has a warehouse full of materials.
It's 1" x 1/8" x 96". Where can I find it? Online is cool too. |
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Benched Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 535 Joined: 16-March 04 From: Northern California Member No.: 273 ![]() |
QUOTE (Teutonic Speedracer @ Mar 2 2005, 10:43 AM) QUOTE (JKnight @ Mar 2 2005, 11:15 AM) We have one bar in front, two in back. The one in front is on the inside, the two in the rear are on the outside. We put some foam in between the metal and the lexan on all three bars. Before you put the lexan in I'd suggest painting around the edges with some lexan paint (available at your local hobby store). This gives it a cleaner look. On the front we are currently painting this so that there is black behind where the American Iron sticker goes. It really makes the American Iron stand out. In the rear it hides the hatch edges that look kinda crappy. Plus if you paint the inside it's a lot less likely to get scratched up. Jason That is exactly what I've been planning all along. Need to find the R/C paint. It seems all the <a href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=hobby%20shops" onmouseover="window.status='hobby shops'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">hobby shops</a> by me closed over the years. Yeah the paint really adds the final touch. You know if I were you I'd go with the tried and true RC paint like Randy and Jason. I used the Krylon Fusion. It does look good now,went on no fish eye at all. The test piece I did prior passed the thumb nail scratch test. You could scratch it off slow if you work at it (think it bonded good). Did not flake off ,like I actually anticipated would happen as if it were conventional spray paint. But it has not been on long,so as far as it REALLY being good enough has yet to be determined. Might just vibrate off as soon as I get the motor back in (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) who knows,may last 2 months or a lifetime (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) You know if you did not get a install kit .I have seen the 'Premium auto weather strip' same as in the Percys kit at Ace. Thats what was used in the rear.For the front I got regular type adhesive weatherstriping,only the best closed cell real rubber stuff though. Not the other garbage that last about one summer of sun. Randy The rear hatch after you take the glass off,it becomes very apparent that the window is 50% of the structural strength. So after the braces were in much improved,would open w/o contorting. Alot more sound it did have alot to do with the way the braces were installed I believe. One they are not just wacked off chunks loose in the window and then fastened down. The length matched slotting depth perfect virtually nill tolerence,tight. Two the top of the braces are bolted down through the brace,hatch,and into a horizontal backing of angle alum. stock and squeezed. Bottom its just tight in there and riveted w/ small backers. After the speedglass (lexan is made by Dupont) is put in it add more rigidity by nature BUT definitely the hatch is, as completed, about 20+% less ridgid than with glass. I think it will last the way it is but only time will tell. The rear stock glass wieghs 37# bathroom scale (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) lexan I didnt wiegh. Tony |
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