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Chapter 11 Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,166 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Houston, Republic of Texas Member No.: 207 ![]() |
Well I went up to the 1/4 mile for the first time on Friday...
I think I did reasonably well for having V700 Escta tires on... 12.60 @113/114 Anyways, I have heard of people disconnecting the front sway bar helps the car hook. Question is - does this still work on cars with independant rear suspension? Shocks - what settings would you recommend? soft? hard? Looking forward to getting some drag radials for next year (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
I think the two main reasons for removing the front bar are that is is useless weight on the nose and it may limit droop travel of the front suspension (it definitely limits travel on an fbody). Reducing the front rebound stiffness may help too.
FWIW, my stock LS6 clutch was holding up fine with Victoracers, but my first launch with fresh Nitto road race tires (which clearly show their drag radial heritage) on decent pavement totally fried the clutch. That wasn't even on glue. MHO, if you're just "experimenting" with racing in heels, stay with the V710s and don't try anything to make it hook up better. Otherwise, you WILL buy a better clutch and move to ASP or SM2, and then you will have to start buying lots of other stuff. BTW, it could be argued that skirt racing (very different from skirt chasing) is a valid means of engine testing and tuning, and of course practicing launch technique (if you leave it set up for autocross at the strip). I believe both Sam and Lou take a walk on the wild side every now and then. Now drag track and field, THAT would be a sport - especially the hurdles. This post has been edited by sgarnett: Oct 3 2005, 02:49 PM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 10th July 2025 - 03:18 AM |