![]() |
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#1
|
|
Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
It can be viewed here:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...11919&langId=-1 Any thoughts on the effectiveness? I've never seen one up close so I can't tell a whole lot about it. I already have a Grant Formula 1 wheel and can get this lock cheap. |
|
|
![]() |
![]()
Post
#2
|
|
Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
Oh I don't think there is a damn thing wrong with the industry standard 1/4" bolts. I think they and the 10-32 screws both have roughly the same likelihood of failing.
I'm pretty sure most stock car boys have the same setup and they have no problem obscenely bending the steering wheel. I don't see anything wrong with any of the setups honestly-I don't even know why I asked initially-I'm just paranoid. You're really supposed to use the proof strength rather than the tensile strength (proof<tensile) when you size bolts. I don't know what it is for 10-32 screws but I can look it up for the 1/4" bolts. Yeah shear would be greatest at low speeds when there is a lot of friction preventing the wheels from turning. I made some pictures in paint to show all the different loads the screws see depending on what the driver is doing and how he is pushing on the wheel. It's really quite complicated, which is why there is what appears to be a large factory of safety. I'll post them later. And I don't think making the spacer longer 1-3" will add that much more stress, but I'll check it out when I have time. Man I must be bored lately. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) |
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 20th June 2025 - 03:20 AM |