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#1
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CMCer ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 ![]() |
Just wondering, thinking about buying it from my friend.
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#2
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Jules - For a 3.42 rear end for the CMC car, you don't need or want brakes on it, just need a built housing with LT1 brake backing plates - to swap, leave the brakes on the car: hang the calipers from the frame, unclip the axle hardline and remove the T bolt from the pumpkin. That and pull the rear LCA/TA bolts and driveshaft straps and the rear end can be swapped quickly, with no need to bleed brakes.
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 951 Joined: 2-January 04 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 88 ![]() |
How timely...
I'll be dropping my CMC rear end out tonight in prep for T2R & complete rebuild. I was wondering if hardline & brakes could be left together w/o cracking a line while dropping the housing. Jules - For a 3.42 rear end for the CMC car, you don't need or want brakes on it, just need a built housing with LT1 brake backing plates - to swap, leave the brakes on the car: hang the calipers from the frame, unclip the axle hardline and remove the T bolt from the pumpkin. That and pull the rear LCA/TA bolts and driveshaft straps and the rear end can be swapped quickly, with no need to bleed brakes.
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#4
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
How timely... I'll be dropping my CMC rear end out tonight in prep for T2R & complete rebuild. I was wondering if hardline & brakes could be left together w/o cracking a line while dropping the housing. Jules - For a 3.42 rear end for the CMC car, you don't need or want brakes on it, just need a built housing with LT1 brake backing plates - to swap, leave the brakes on the car: hang the calipers from the frame, unclip the axle hardline and remove the T bolt from the pumpkin. That and pull the rear LCA/TA bolts and driveshaft straps and the rear end can be swapped quickly, with no need to bleed brakes. Ya, I use some wire (TIG rod, actually) to bend up hangers to support the calipers so the brake flex lines don't get kinked. There are a couple of weld tabs on the axle tubes, and a bolt thru the T fitting into the pumpkin. Be gentle with the hardline. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2025 - 08:23 AM |