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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 438 Joined: 1-January 04 From: BOS Member No.: 85 ![]() |
I've got an 01 Ranger 4x4 that's nearing 100k. I think it's definitely time for some shocks. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
My local guy who does my tires, alignments, etc. swears by Monroe. I see several options from that company that are relatively inexpensive. I would like a relatively smooth ride--for a truck of course--and not really something that is going to knock my kidneys out. For that reason, KYB and Bilstein seem like they're not good ideas. Any suggestions? While at it, how about front brake pads? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) On edit, didn't post in towing, because I don't consider this a tow vehicle. It's more of an around town/winter vehicle. -John This post has been edited by Spooner: Apr 24 2006, 03:21 PM |
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Collo Rosso ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,220 Joined: 3-August 05 From: San Antonio, TX Member No.: 839 ![]() |
Just a note about my recent Bilstein shock install on my 2003 2500HD Ext. cab short bed.
Installation was simple, the worst part was getting the upper nut off of the fronts because the shaft was pretty rusty. I applied a fairly liberal coat of grease to the Bilsteins' threads to prevent a repeat of that corrosion. Other than that it just doesn't get much easier. You'll need a 21mm deep socket, everything is pretty much "super-sized" compared to car stuff. The stock shocks appeared OK (no oil leaking, etc), but they seem to have very little compression damping and tons of rebound damping. Also, the pistons don't retract on their own very much. They are all the same so I'm not sure if they are still operating as designed or if they are worn out. Truck has 50K miles. I flipped the nut and bolt ends of the rear upper mounts when I installed the new shocks. It was much easier to get a socket on the nut that way. Initial, no-load impressions are good, the truck feels more in control, I wouldn't call it a drastic change, but definitely noticeable and an improvement. I think the truck sits just a little higher now, especially in the back. I'm sure it'll be a quantum leap when loaded down, though. Will find out on the trip to Topeka next week. On a related note; damn, checked the brake pads and they are still very meaty. 50K miles doesn't seem right but it stops fine and they look good <shrug>. |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 438 Joined: 1-January 04 From: BOS Member No.: 85 ![]() |
Just a note about my recent Bilstein shock install on my 2003 2500HD Ext. cab short bed. Installation was simple, the worst part was getting the upper nut off of the fronts because the shaft was pretty rusty. I applied a fairly liberal coat of grease to the Bilsteins' threads to prevent a repeat of that corrosion. Other than that it just doesn't get much easier. You'll need a 21mm deep socket, everything is pretty much "super-sized" compared to car stuff. The stock shocks appeared OK (no oil leaking, etc), but they seem to have very little compression damping and tons of rebound damping. Also, the pistons don't retract on their own very much. They are all the same so I'm not sure if they are still operating as designed or if they are worn out. Truck has 50K miles. I flipped the nut and bolt ends of the rear upper mounts when I installed the new shocks. It was much easier to get a socket on the nut that way. Initial, no-load impressions are good, the truck feels more in control, I wouldn't call it a drastic change, but definitely noticeable and an improvement. I think the truck sits just a little higher now, especially in the back. I'm sure it'll be a quantum leap when loaded down, though. Will find out on the trip to Topeka next week. On a related note; damn, checked the brake pads and they are still very meaty. 50K miles doesn't seem right but it stops fine and they look good <shrug>. Same here. Bilsteins were a VAST improvment over the worn out (100K on them) OEM shocks in my Ranger 4x4. The ride went from really bouncy (no rebound in front) to firm and it seems to corner better. Not that I'm really pushing it that hard. Well worth the investment. I don't do any towning or anything, though. The hardest part was getting the front OEM shocks out. The nut on top was welded on to the shaft with rust. I just twisted the top of the shock shaft off. This seems to be a feature in Rangers, as we had to cut the OEMs off of my brother's truck with a sawzall. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) -John (edit for speeeling) This post has been edited by Spooner: Sep 13 2006, 01:18 PM |
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