The new to me 1992 Z28, Photos and build information inside Options

[BumpaD_Z28]

want to do it one time and be done with it, I don't want to be upgrading computers later.

You'll probably end up needing to change the carb anyway (which isn't exactly cheap either) if you go off the deep end with the engine... and you will.

I'll sell carb A to finance carb B..... That will still make it less expensive as a whole (unfortunately).

I'm not against fuel injection by any means but in a "all out" performance application, I will always challenge any F/I setup to a PROPERLY SETUP carburetor...

Besides you just wanna be more like NASCAR (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[trackbird]

I hate NASCAR. (however, if they want to pay me millions to drive in circles, I can be bought).

[BumpaD_Z28]

I hate NASCAR. (however, if they want to pay me millions to drive in circles, I can be bought).

http://www.theonion.com/content/video/nasc...reveals_winning

sorry this is off topic ... sorta (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

"STRAIGHTER !!!"

[Todd]

I'm not against fuel injection by any means but in a "all out" performance application, I will always challenge any F/I setup to a PROPERLY SETUP carburetor...

Besides you just wanna be more like NASCAR (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

A properly setup FI will run within a few HP of a properly setup carb. The big difference will be that FI is WAY more flexible for part-throttle driveability. You could run a stock ECM (prob a `730) with an aggressive chip, convert to MS, or convert to an LS1 PCM (faster, more flexible tuning). It all depends if you are willing to spend the time to fine tune it...cause regardless of carb or FI, the more aggressive the cam, driveability will suffer (ie on-off-part throttle on an autocross course)

I chose to convert to the LS1 setup but am having difficulty with the fuel rails on my HSR hitting the distributor...

[trackbird]

I wondered about adding a reluctor wheel and using an LS1 computer. Do you have any info on the swap?

[Todd]

I wondered about adding a reluctor wheel and using an LS1 computer. Do you have any info on the swap?

If you were to do that, you could go all the way with coil packs, etc. which I'm considering for later. Not sure what kind of signal you'd need for cam sensor running the LS1 program.

The conversion I'm doing uses the LS1 PCM with an Express van program in it (they used Gen I SBC in vans up to `03). The crank sensor is at the front in a plastic timing cover (like the ZZ4) and the reluctor is a 4 tooth unit. The distributor is a flat unit that is used for cam sensor but is basically a 180 degree hall effect. You can use a stock distributor and mod it by cutting teeth out of the trigger. The harness is the expensive part unless you hack your own. My motor came from a 99 suburban so i had all the extra parts but if you have time, you can pull them in a junk yard for cheap. 96-99 Vortec truck 4.3/5.0/5.7

The big problem is the LS1 program supports coil packs but not the 4 tooth reluctor so you'd have to fab one. The Express van program supports the 4 tooth reluctor but not coil packs.

original conversion on the trucks
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.ph...c&start=400

third gen.org thread on TPI usage of this setup
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/3833...s-opinions.html

I had extra difficulties because the distributor is flat and the plug wires come off the side and hit the fuel rails. At this point I don't think even with a custom rail I can get the wires to clear and have the rail continue to the #8 cylinder.

pic from when i was mocking it up
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g249/car...73/100_1589.jpg

[trackbird]

Today I removed the SLP exhaust and added a Magnaflow muffler, a short section of straight pipe and a turn down. We also pulled the heat shields that were no longer needed and all of the emergency brake parts too. It's late, I'm tired and I'm going to skip right to the photos.

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[trackbird]

Tonight we learned a few valuable lessons.

While heading down to racerdad916's place, I heard a strange ringing/rattling sound. It wasn't changing in pitch and I couldn't tell what it was. Then, I gave a blip of throttle on the interstate and something hit the bottom of the car hard, and several times. About 10 miles later I figured out what it was. It was the PAB bolt on the front brakes and I now had a potentially very large problem (since I'm still doing 75 mph at this point). I wound up easing it off the highway exit ramp and into a gas station where the wheel locked up for the last 15 feet of my stop. Billy (Racerdad) brought a jack, some tools and an assortment of bolts and we put it back together and I was on my way to his place.

The second thing I learned is that you should always keep spares. Yesterday I sold the exhaust kit from the car and while he was here, he offered to buy my 1992 vintage 16" wheels from the Camaro. I decided that I already have IROC wheels and I'm going to buy 17's in the near future and I could use the garage space. So, I let them go. Today, while fixing the brake issue, I realized that I have a crack in one of my front IROC wheels. It split right at the bottom of the V between the spokes. So, I'll not be autocrossing on those any longer and now I need to dig up some wheels, or at least one front one. For now, we're going to use Billy's wheels, or at least a couple of them, but between us, we have 4 good rears and 2 good fronts (one from each set, his are the 1992 style as well). So, things aren't grand, but I think we'll make the next event (unless I find cracks in more wheels). I'm glad I found it out today and not on a track somewhere.....

Oh well, more to come later.

[Pilot]

Kevin, I don't know what kind of offset you need... would the C4 wheels fit? If so you're always welcome to mine.

[trackbird]

C4's would require a pretty serious spacer to fit my car, but thanks!

[nape]

C4's would require a pretty serious spacer to fit my car, but thanks!

At least 2".

[slowTA]

Kevin, I have a set of thirdgen wheels with dead 710s. http://www.plaftaphoto.com/gallery/album358/IMG_4039 I think they were sand blasted on the face and are painted black on the inside. They're round but I never checked for cracks.

PM/e-mail me.

[trackbird]

Ok, I went out to take pics of the cracked IROC wheel and found that it's cracking on both sides of the spokes (and I'll be inspecting the others before running them again). This wheel has unknown mileage on it, but is in decent condition (appearance wise at least). These aren't great photos, but if you look at the rear of the area between the spokes, you'll see the cracks running in the center and then off to one side.

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[trackbird]

We finally got time to take another shot at the cooling issues I've been having. This time we replaced the TPI fans with a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic fan. It's got its own built in thermostat, it moves 3,000 cfm and we were hoping it would cure all of our problems.

Since there is a rather non stock radiator in this car, nothing is exactly a drop in fit. We removed the radiator, test fitted the fan and radiator and then notched the radiator support for clearance.

It was deburred.

Then we clamped the fan mount in place and it was welded to the car. This is supposed to clamp over the radiator, but we cut the vertical parts off and left the slotted mount to use for my car. We were afraid it wasn't going to fit very well with my radiator, so we took this approach.

We welded a strap across the opening to help support things after cutting the side out of it.

We welded an angle to the upper mount and bolted it to the radiator support.

And, the final result.

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[trackbird]

And, on the way home from the autocross today, I may have found a clue to my cooling issues. I can't swear that it's the entire problem, but it might be useful information in the pursuit of better cooling. A picture is worth a thousand words, so here they are....

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[slowcamaro]

Between the flap and your intrusion into the air stream, I hope you solved your problems. Looks like im going to have to do some cutting of my core support to fit my windstar fan setup...glad im not alone.

[trackbird]

Well, I made a quick run through the gears on the way home and then I heard a noise. The car had been known to heat up quickly during a quick blast through a few gears and I figured I'd see if the fan helped. Well, after shoving the nose through the air at a particular velocity (that proved sufficient to uncover this little issue), the flap blew down and wound up dragging the last few miles to my house. I took that photo in my garage right before I posted it and it's still sitting that way at this time. I figure I'm going to mess with it in the morning and for now, I'm going to just stay inside and deal with it later.

[trackbird]

Let the cooling experiments begin. We added a secondary air dam and extended the stock location air dam, we added panels above the air dam area on the sides to keep the air from just going up into the fenders. Now we just have to see if it actually works at all.

Here's the pics:

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[cccbock]

Let the cooling experiments begin. We added a secondary air dam and extended the stock location air dam, we added panels above the air dam area on the sides to keep the air from just going up into the fenders. Now we just have to see if it actually works at all.

Here's the pics:

Well, if it doesnt work, you can always use it as a snowplow.

Bock (ducking) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[trackbird]

Go ahead and yuck it up.....(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I just got back from driving the car up to Mid Ohio to meet up with Mitch and Glenn and the car definately cools now. It used to run 150-180 degrees on the interstate in 70 degree weather at 80 mph (no thermostat). Now it gets up to 160-170 in town and as soon as I get moving at 45mph or more, it cools back to where the autometer gauge is sitting on the pin at 140 degrees. The oil temp made it to 180, but once we were moving, it was cooled to where it was coming out of the pan at 140 or less (the oil temp gauge was on the pin too, it used to run about 180 under the same conditions).

It will take an autocross and a track day to see if we really have something, but it looks good. Now I have to buy another thermostat and install it.......(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)