[NataSS Inc]

Since this is about as low tech as it gets, I am putting it here. Absolute, if you think it needs moved, feel free.

I have had the abosulte hardest time trying to get my engine temps up high enough that I feel safe. The combo of the Mexiere EWP and the LG supercool radiator w/ a 180* stat I CAN NOT get my engine temps above 140*. Even on the dyno with NO fan running it never went above 140. If it did right after a pull it would drop like a hot rock right back to 140*.

I saw an older post by Lou on LS1tech saying that some of us would have to "tape" the radiator to get out engine temps up to a normal operating area. What did he mean by "tape". Did he mean litterally tape over part of the radiator? And if this is right, what would I use? Duct tape, 200mph tape? And if I do use tape wouldnt the heat off the radiator melt the stick'um off the tape? i was going to use a pice of cardboard to block about 1/4- 1/2 the radiator and thought of using tape to hold it on but was worried about melting the tape.

Can anyone help me out with this?

[Jon A]

Is your thermostat stuck open?

[JonV]

I'd put cardboard or something in front of it. If you look at heavy transport trucks, you'll notice that many of them wear a bra in the winter. This is done to keep engine temps up.

[mitchntx]

What were your ambient temps?

I recently heard a suggestion from a racer about building sheet metal strips and fixing them in front of the radiator. Then collect some data to see what kind of temp difference for a given width of block-off gave you for a given track/ambient temperature.

That way, you would have an idea before you hit the track for a race.

[Zimm]

Did he mean litterally tape over part of the radiator?  And if this is right, what would I use?  Duct tape, 200mph tape? 

I think he meant 200mph tape right over the rad opening - preferably on the screen if you have one - not on the rad itself. See the pictures of Jamie McMurray's car at the recent Sears Point NASCAR test.

http://www.motorsport.com/photos/select.as...y&S=NASCAR-CUP#

[GlennCMC70]

just an FYI, i saw a 30 degree temp change by just moving the temp sender from the passenger head @ the rear of the head to the top of the water pump @ the outlet (best place to read it IMO). if your water temp was only 140, your fans would never turn on! if your fans are turning on, your car is most likely @ 180 or better. have you used a pyrometer to check temps @ the radiator hose (the hose that is the return to the radiator - driver side)?

[rmackintosh]

I think he meant 200mph tape right over the rad opening - preferably on the screen if you have one - not on the rad itself. See the pictures of Jamie McMurray's car at the recent Sears Point NASCAR test.

Yep...good 'ol racers/duct tape will do ya just fine.....I taped over 75% of my Datsun radiator for ALL 9 YEARS I raced it....STILL couldn't get it up to temp sometimes... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

You will be better off taping up the opening as others have said...but if you still are a bottom feeder, the radiator may be the only way to go. I would be careful doing it this way....don't want hot spots to develope...i.e. blocking off all in one area and getting uneven temps....might want to start taping from the sides.....so top to bottom, flow/temps are more even....

[SSpeedracer]

Help me understand this. Your thermostate is not suppose to open until the block temp reaches 180. So, the radiator has not seen the heated fluid yet, right? Therefore, the fluid in the block and heads is not getting hot enough to open the thermostate and is instead bypassing the radiator and being recirculated.

I realize there is some leak by at the thermostate, but is it significant?

I must be missing something. Help me get this?

[rmackintosh]

Help me understand this. Your thermostate is not suppose to open until the block temp reaches 180. So, the radiator has not seen the heated fluid yet, right? Therefore, the fluid in the block and heads is not getting hot enough to open the thermostate and is instead bypassing the radiator and being recirculated.

Yeah...I would check the accuracy of the guage first...I doubt the LG radiator or any other for that matter will keep a car below 140 all the time. I myself, can idle ALL DAY Long at 150, but it goes up when romping on it...

[NataSS Inc]

Well here is what I think might be hurting me. The Meziere is flowing a constant amount of collant no matter what (roughly comparible to 4500 rpm). As per Mezeire instructions I drilled 2 holes on either side of the thermostat to facilitate a little coolant flow. Could the amount of coolant that is slipping through the 3/16 hole be what is hurting me? My temp sender for the mechanical autometer procomp gauge is mounted on the rear most hole on the passenger head. I can see how this would show a small difference in the gauge reading and the thermostat opening. The guage used to show me about 160-170 before it would drop (I figured that meant the therm. was opening). and since the therm. is a 180* the 20* diff or so because of the sender location seemed right to me.

The last few days have been warmer than before. 70-80 degrees and it still wouldnt get above 140* on the gauge. Maybe the therm is stuck open. Thats a good possibility.

I am leaving town for 3 days so when I get back I will have to start diagnosing this. I may put the 160* stat back in and see if that changes anything. But seeing as that the Meziere pump uses a standard chev SB thermostat I may have just got a crappy one from Schmucks when I relpaced the 160 with the 180.