Watts Link, No joke..... Options

[Sam Strano]

Making both colors in the initial batch, but the sooner I know if you care the better so we don't end up say selling all the black ones before you decide. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[JimMueller]

Doing some more thinking on this... I was under the impression that you, Sam, didn't care for lowering the rear roll center because it required too stiff of rear springs. Can someone help me understand how lowering the rear roll center via the the watts link works better than lowering the rrc with the lower phb brackets method?

[sgarnett]

Making both colors in the initial batch, but the sooner I know if you care the better so we don't end up say selling all the black ones before you decide. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Well if there's no difference in the schedule, it's an easy choice. I'll take black (sending note) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This post has been edited by sgarnett: Aug 4 2008, 12:07 PM

[John_D.]

I think Sam likes the Watts link because it's more consistent (left vs. right).

It has the added advantage (for those who want to go this way) of being able to lower the roll center.

[Sam Strano]

Doing some more thinking on this... I was under the impression that you, Sam, didn't care for lowering the rear roll center because it required too stiff of rear springs. Can someone help me understand how lowering the rear roll center via the the watts link works better than lowering the rrc with the lower phb brackets method?

You can do as you wish. Frankly if you want to lower the roll center you can, and you can do so it more finite steps this way. Don't confused adjustment range with what I might recommend. It's an adjustment that is available, and might be useful to you. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The adjustment isn't as coarse (small changes in rc height are available in 1/2" drops).

Mostly I'm doing it for my own personal car to eliminate the arc of the PHB and the fact the roll center moves up and down depending on which way you are turning. I'm not doing it to drop my roll center way down...

[Sam Strano]

Newest update....
All the tubing is cut and ready to be welded and all the other parts are ready to be put together. We're just waiting for all the parts to be assembled and powdercoated. The schedule is a little behind, but I'm told we're looking like (and hoping for) middle to late next week for shipment.

[Sam Strano]

Trying to for a new update.... Now have instructions (and detailed ones too). Pushing as hard as I can on this--I'll keep you posted.

[Sam Strano]

Good news:

"Sam,
I just met with the welder, sandblaster and powder coater.
Welding is promised for Tuesday morning.
We are FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!! on schedule to ship next Friday."

That's a quote from Fays2.

[Rampant]

Good news:

"Sam,
I just met with the welder, sandblaster and powder coater.
Welding is promised for Tuesday morning.
We are FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!! on schedule to ship next Friday."

That's a quote from Fays2.

Has there been any talk of one for a 12 bolt yet? I know it was mentioned but for a later date.

I will be seriously looking at one for mine.

I can get dimensions if they need them and photos. The car is just a roller right now waiting to put the 36mm front bar on you sent me. Well it is actually waiting for the motor.

[tpunk]

Good news:

"Sam,
I just met with the welder, sandblaster and powder coater.
Welding is promised for Tuesday morning.
We are FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!! on schedule to ship next Friday."

That's a quote from Fays2.

Has there been any talk of one for a 12 bolt yet? I know it was mentioned but for a later date.

I will be seriously looking at one for mine.

I can get dimensions if they need them and photos. The car is just a roller right now waiting to put the 36mm front bar on you sent me. Well it is actually waiting for the motor.

I was under the impression that all that needed to be changed was the clamps for the axle housing. If this is so then I would think it would be easy for them to sell you the corresponding part if you measure it correctly.

I assume we can expect a review from you (Sam) pretty soon after you get this on your car right (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) . Also, I noticed that you said black will be an option on this first batch but will it continue to be an option later on? Doesn't really matter too much, just curious.

[Sam Strano]

The car the prototype was tested on has a 12-bolt in it.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I've driven Mustangs with Watts Links in them (including the S197 cars that come stock with a PHB setup like the Camaro). I already know the difference. It will not be until a few weeks after Nationals until I can get personal testing done since my Camaro is currently apart and Nationals is the priority. However, I already know what to expect from past experience, which basically amounts to a more stable tail particularly over bumps, most consistent handling left vs. right since the roll center isn't rising and falling in different directions.

[Crazy Canuck]

will these work w/ a 9" ?

[Sam Strano]

The only thing that matters is the size of the axle tubes.... GM, 12-bolt, 9"... As long as the rear end is setup for a stock or stock replacement PHB, all I need to know is the OD of the axle tubes.

[Sam Strano]

And the latest update.........









Starting to ship out today. There is an aluminum spacer that wasn't completed on time. Fays2 is sending those out at their cost by 2-day air when they arrive (due next Tuesday). Because these are shipping ground freight the spacers and Watts Links should arrive at just about the same time.

[veinharvest]

Heh heh heh!
Let me know when you want to play with this at CPR, as I'm sure I won't be able to resist getting this on as soon as possible. Besides you'll be too busy to put yours on! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) May need to ..."Ahem"... Borrow... an "Old" set of tires..."ahem" for you to get a true test session though. Good luck this year.

[sgarnett]

Mine arrived today. The instruction book is very thorough, with lots of color photos.

The axle clamp/brackets seem to be sized for a 9" and/or 12 bolt, and there are split-tube steel shims included to presumably fit the smaller 10 bolt axle tubes. That's the one obvious detail missign from the instructions.

Also, the instructions specify reinstalling the passenger-side PHR and PHR brace bolts, installing the nuts loosely with Loctite, reinstalling the driver-side PHR brace bolts with Loctite, and then torquing them all. Personally, I'd just install the passenger side bolts but leave the nuts off or just temporarily thread them on dry and loose, then install and torque the driver-side bolts with Loctite, and then install and torque the passenger-side nuts with Loctite.

This post has been edited by sgarnett: Sep 4 2008, 12:34 PM

[Cr0usEEE]

I got mine yesterday...and gone through the instruction manual before installing tonight. I have two questions.

1) What spacer is required for the "stock" rear sway bar? (1st page in manual)
2) It does not specifically say...but should the rear axle/car be on the ground during install?? I mean have the rear up on ramps instead or supporting the car on jack stands from the frame rails. My impression is that ramps is the ticket but it is not called out in the instructions.

[shortbus]

I got mine yesterday...and gone through the instruction manual before installing tonight. I have two questions.

1) What spacer is required for the "stock" rear sway bar? (1st page in manual)
2) It does not specifically say...but should the rear axle/car be on the ground during install?? I mean have the rear up on ramps instead or supporting the car on jack stands from the frame rails. My impression is that ramps is the ticket but it is not called out in the instructions.

It does not say drive on lift preferred?

[Cr0usEEE]

I got mine yesterday...and gone through the instruction manual before installing tonight. I have two questions.

1) What spacer is required for the "stock" rear sway bar? (1st page in manual)
2) It does not specifically say...but should the rear axle/car be on the ground during install?? I mean have the rear up on ramps instead or supporting the car on jack stands from the frame rails. My impression is that ramps is the ticket but it is not called out in the instructions.

It does not say drive on lift preferred?

It does say drive on lift preferred...but then also it doesnt say at what position the axle should be relative to the body. Should it be at nominal? Fully compressed? Fully droop? I know what it should be at but the instructions don't specifically say it. What is the impact if you install the axle at full droop?? The lateral bars will be parallel throughout the travel range so it really shouldn't matter.

[shortbus]

You'll want those bars to be level when the car is sitting on the ground. So, using a drive on lift it will be easier to install this while thing.

I suppose you can install it all with the car all jacked up... but when you are done those bars should be level.

This post has been edited by shortbus: Sep 4 2008, 02:35 PM