building new motor hp/tq rpm range for RR Options

[IROC383]

If you could share a link to the nasa ccr i would love to follow your lead. Engine hp is 320 to the ground.

All of NASA's rules are here: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

top one is the CCR - read the safety, drivers gear and rules of the road sections first.

A little further down is AI, there are some rules there that will override the CCR. If an item is not mentioned in the AI rules, it is governed by the CCR.

At 320rwhp, you are good for 3040# minimum, in impound after a race, with you, your gear, and remaining fuel. Those are great numbers for a 3rd gen. I'd build the motor for reliability, focus on getting seat time and licensed, then build the car for AI. As stated above, building a cometitive AIX car is not for the light of wallet.

Thanks Alan. Any AIX guys want to buy some ZR1 11" wheels, Black? I'll trade for 2 ( 91/2")
don't have scale to weight now, would 400engine hp be safe for starters?
does AI approve of a 383ci stroked. If its within the hp requirements of 9.5:1 it should be fine?
Do window clips have any sizes or material?
Do we have to install quick lock steering wheel?

[firehawkclone]

Ditch the 383, you'll not be able to choke it off enough. We all run on a spec tire, so most of the time the lightest car should win. Put a stock 350 or a 5.3 LS motor and run it. Save your money for other stuff.

Just get to the track with a safe car and get seat time.

[Blainefab]

If you could share a link to the nasa ccr i would love to follow your lead. Engine hp is 320 to the ground.

All of NASA's rules are here: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

top one is the CCR - read the safety, drivers gear and rules of the road sections first.

A little further down is AI, there are some rules there that will override the CCR. If an item is not mentioned in the AI rules, it is governed by the CCR.

At 320rwhp, you are good for 3040# minimum, in impound after a race, with you, your gear, and remaining fuel. Those are great numbers for a 3rd gen. I'd build the motor for reliability, focus on getting seat time and licensed, then build the car for AI. As stated above, building a cometitive AIX car is not for the light of wallet.

Thanks Alan. Any AIX guys want to buy some ZR1 11" wheels, Black? I'll trade for 2 ( 91/2")
don't have scale to weight now, would 400engine hp be safe for starters?
does AI approve of a 383ci stroked. If its within the hp requirements of 9.5:1 it should be fine?
Do window clips have any sizes or material?
Do we have to install quick lock steering wheel?

There is a good market for 17x11's - post them for sale/trade in the classified. The 17x9.5 wheels of choice are 01-04 Z06 fronts - they are the right size and offset, reasonably light, and can be picked up for around $500 for a set of 4 - watch the Corvetteforum classifieds.

There are no rules in AI regarding motor mods, except: no blowers, no NO, no dry sump, no wrong brands. Avoid overbuilding the motor - it is better to be a little low on HP, and put your $ and effort towards adding lightness, and fine tuning the suspension/aero. If you haven't got money invested yet in the 383, I'd stick with stock bore, put a Canton RR pan on it, and long tube headers. Your iron block will be a disadvantage, with about 60# more on the front vs an LS motor.

Window clips are optional - if you use Lexan in the front (3/16" thick) it must have at least one interior brace.

Removable steering wheel is not required, but pretty much a practical necessity with a proper cage and seat.

[IROC383]

If you could share a link to the nasa ccr i would love to follow your lead. Engine hp is 320 to the ground.

All of NASA's rules are here: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

top one is the CCR - read the safety, drivers gear and rules of the road sections first.

A little further down is AI, there are some rules there that will override the CCR. If an item is not mentioned in the AI rules, it is governed by the CCR.

At 320rwhp, you are good for 3040# minimum, in impound after a race, with you, your gear, and remaining fuel. Those are great numbers for a 3rd gen. I'd build the motor for reliability, focus on getting seat time and licensed, then build the car for AI. As stated above, building a cometitive AIX car is not for the light of wallet.

Thanks Alan. Any AIX guys want to buy some ZR1 11" wheels, Black? I'll trade for 2 ( 91/2")
don't have scale to weight now, would 400engine hp be safe for starters?
does AI approve of a 383ci stroked. If its within the hp requirements of 9.5:1 it should be fine?
Do window clips have any sizes or material?
Do we have to install quick lock steering wheel?

There is a good market for 17x11's - post them for sale/trade in the classified. The 17x9.5 wheels of choice are 01-04 Z06 fronts - they are the right size and offset, reasonably light, and can be picked up for around $500 for a set of 4 - watch the Corvetteforum classifieds.

There are no rules in AI regarding motor mods, except: no blowers, no NO, no dry sump, no wrong brands. Avoid overbuilding the motor - it is better to be a little low on HP, and put your $ and effort towards adding lightness, and fine tuning the suspension/aero. If you haven't got money invested yet in the 383, I'd stick with stock bore, put a Canton RR pan on it, and long tube headers. Your iron block will be a disadvantage, with about 60# more on the front vs an LS motor.

Window clips are optional - if you use Lexan in the front (3/16" thick) it must have at least one interior brace.

Removable steering wheel is not required, but pretty much a practical necessity with a proper cage and seat.

Do I still need the current spacers to make these wheels work? Thanks for all your help. Im closer than I thought.

[Blainefab]

Thanks Alan. Any AIX guys want to buy some ZR1 11" wheels, Black? I'll trade for 2 ( 91/2")

There is a good market for 17x11's - post them for sale/trade in the classified. The 17x9.5 wheels of choice are 01-04 Z06 fronts - they are the right size and offset, reasonably light, and can be picked up for around $500 for a set of 4 - watch the Corvetteforum classifieds.

Do I still need the current spacers to make these wheels work? Thanks for all your help. Im closer than I thought.

A lot of 4th gen AI/CMC2 cars are running the Z06 fronts with my 1/2" spacers on all 4 corners. The spacers aren't absolutely necessary, but they reduce roll and give more clearance for brake ducts, and eliminate a lot of pounding of the inner fender wells.

I can't say how they fit on a third gen, there should be some threads here that should help.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Nov 15 2010, 08:17 AM

[Spruill242]

Yeah you're going to have to forget about the 383. The problem is there's also a torque to weight ratio rule; with a stroker motor it's very hard to tune down the torque numbers to stay legal. i'm not sure if you have a block already or what but the two ways I would go with it are; aluminum headed long block from Blueprint engines or GMPP, or if you have a block get a decent rotating assembly and spend the money on longetivity I.E. ARP bolts and MLS gaskets if you can swing it. Good oil control is a must!!!! Road race poil pan, oil cooler and an accusump and you'll have one less thing to worry about.

Don't go crazy on the motor, just get something built that will hold up, get it in the car, found out what kind of power it makes and build the car around that. 320 is an easy number to shoot for with a 350. From there you know what weight you have to shoot for and that will dictate everything else down the line. Like you may not have to spend money on lexan windows because you actually need the weight that sort of thing.

[IROC383]

Yeah you're going to have to forget about the 383. The problem is there's also a torque to weight ratio rule; with a stroker motor it's very hard to tune down the torque numbers to stay legal. i'm not sure if you have a block already or what but the two ways I would go with it are; aluminum headed long block from Blueprint engines or GMPP, or if you have a block get a decent rotating assembly and spend the money on longetivity I.E. ARP bolts and MLS gaskets if you can swing it. Good oil control is a must!!!! Road race poil pan, oil cooler and an accusump and you'll have one less thing to worry about.

Don't go crazy on the motor, just get something built that will hold up, get it in the car, found out what kind of power it makes and build the car around that. 320 is an easy number to shoot for with a 350. From there you know what weight you have to shoot for and that will dictate everything else down the line. Like you may not have to spend money on lexan windows because you actually need the weight that sort of thing.

I weigh 240 + glass in front and back. good roll cage and heavy ZR1 Wheels._ 150LB ballast. HP/TQ ratio maybe OK
I have iron vortex heads. Ive done this bas akwards Im finding out. Motors out of the car already. Getting built in 3 weeks. Going to hit dyno down the street after wards to find out the official numbers.