Rebuild my 208,000 mile rear, or a used low mile unit? Options

[FASTFATBOY]

Since the 3000 mile whipping the car got on the Power Tour and the optima Faceoff the rear end sounds like a cement mixer.

What is my best option?

I haven't torn into the rear end to inspect but will next week.

With the miles I am afraid the axles are shot, I don't think its a good idea to use "axle saver" bearings as they move the bearings inboard and stress the axle face more.

Rebuild bearing/seal kits are around $200.

The gears with those miles should be ok, would you change them?

Thanks in advance.

[trackbird]

If the welds on the axle tubes look ok (no cracks, etc), I'd upgrade axles, bearings, seals and just rebuild the whole thing. You'll wind up with a freshened rear end full of good parts (which you'd probably do to a lower mileage rear anyway).

[Blainefab]

Since the 3000 mile whipping the car got on the Power Tour and the optima Faceoff the rear end sounds like a cement mixer.

What is my best option?

I haven't torn into the rear end to inspect but will next week.

With the miles I am afraid the axles are shot, I don't think its a good idea to use "axle saver" bearings as they move the bearings inboard and stress the axle face more.

Rebuild bearing/seal kits are around $200.

The gears with those miles should be ok, would you change them?

Thanks in advance.

I have a 3rd/4th gen axle package available: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=8546 I also have axle end bearings and seals in stock.

The gears and carrier bearings will last a long time if the lube is adequate and not run low. In my experience, the first thing to go on a 10bolt is the pinion seal, then the axle end bearings and seals. I've replaced many diffs, and the carrier bearings always look OK unless the diff has been spewing and grinding chunks of metal.

Plumbing a 3/8" hose to a catch tank will go a long ways towards keeping the gear lube on the inside, too. Pull the plastic vent thing out, clean up the hole and JB weld a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting in its place, route the hose upward so vapors condense and run back in.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jun 15 2012, 06:14 PM

[FASTFATBOY]

I ended up rebuilding my rear, here was the noise maker

(IMG:https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/527826_10151810918920314_601189150_n.jpg)


Axles looked ok, used a Ratech "deluxe" kit to freshen it up. A heads up on this kit, as it's nice and everything you need is in there the pinion seal leaked after the first short test drive. The same thing happened to a buddy with this kit.

Went to Autozone, bought a Timken seal, one more quart of Mobil 1 fluid and it's been fine.

[dailydriver]

...and that's the bearing set that everyone says almost never goes bad. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dunno.gif)

Go figure.

[FASTFATBOY]

I have been fighting a leaking pinion seal since I put it back together, 2 seals and a GM yoke kit.....still leaking.

SO I took Alan's advice and made me a vent, but I used a 1/4(I think) pipe to 3/8 nipple.

I ground down the threaded end to where it barely fit where factory vent was, tapped it in with a hammer and JB welded it in.

Test drove it 2 times, "SEEMS" to have fixed it.....time will tell.

PICS

(IMG:http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/FASTFATBOY1/rearendvent1.jpg)

(IMG:http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/FASTFATBOY1/rearendvent2.jpg)

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jul 17 2012, 12:32 AM

[StanIROCZ]

Does the pinion have preload? If you grab hold of the pinion flange and push up and down is it sloppy? A loose pinion is a guaranteed leaker.

Is there a groove worn on the seal journal surface of the flange?

[FASTFATBOY]

Does the pinion have preload? If you grab hold of the pinion flange and push up and down is it sloppy? A loose pinion is a guaranteed leaker.

Is there a groove worn on the seal journal surface of the flange?

Pinion is loaded.

Has a brand new GM yoke in it. GM makes a kit with a yoke, seal, washer and nut. Its all in it.


BTW, how hot is a rear supposed to get? Anyone ever put a temp gun on one after a drive? Just curious as I went for a test drive, about 10 miles and the rear was hot to the touch.

[StanIROCZ]

Normal operating temp is likely over 200F

[BPWilliams]

Yes I have a 180 deg cooling switch on mine and it is on everytime coming off the track, I would say 200+ easy...

[StanIROCZ]

Yes I have a 180 deg cooling switch on mine and it is on everytime coming off the track, I would say 200+ easy...

Yeah, track driving would be higher, but cruising on the freeway is going to be over 200.

[FASTFATBOY]

Didn't fix it, its not just leaking, its pouring.

Quiet as a mouse, no vibrations.....just leaks at the pinion seal.

[FASTFATBOY]

I put a temp gun on the yoke and the pumpkin after a spirited drive, 170 degrees.

I took it back apart and the new GM Yoke had a speedy sleeve looking deal with an oversize seal.

So I took it off, used and old(new) seal with grey silicone on the back and pit it back together.

Test drove it and is back on the rack, dry at the moment but seems to have to sit a while to show the leak.

(IMG:http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/FASTFATBOY1/yoke.jpg)

[dailydriver]

I took Alan's advice and made me a vent, but I used a 1/4(I think) pipe to 3/8 nipple.

I ground down the threaded end to where it barely fit where factory vent was, tapped it in with a hammer and JB welded it in.

(IMG:http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/FASTFATBOY1/rearendvent1.jpg)

Alan, (or anyone who's done this) ; would it help or hurt anything to put a small filter (K&N valve cover breather style) into the end of that hose, or is it best just to leave it as it is in that pic??

[ndtguy]

I took Alan's advice and made me a vent, but I used a 1/4(I think) pipe to 3/8 nipple.

I ground down the threaded end to where it barely fit where factory vent was, tapped it in with a hammer and JB welded it in.

(IMG:http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l528/FASTFATBOY1/rearendvent1.jpg)

Alan, (or anyone who's done this) ; would it help or hurt anything to put a small filter (K&N valve cover breather style) into the end of that hose, or is it best just to leave it as it is in that pic??

Guys on the Titan board used a fuel filter at the end of the line, so I don't see why adding a small K&N filter like you talked about would be an issue.

[Blainefab]

Alan, (or anyone who's done this) ; would it help or hurt anything to put a small filter (K&N valve cover breather style) into the end of that hose, or is it best just to leave it as it is in that pic??

For track use, put a catch can on it. I don't think a filter is necessary unless you drive in a really dusty area or gravel roads.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jul 23 2012, 07:51 AM

[Blainefab]

Test drove it and is back on the rack, dry at the moment but seems to have to sit a while to show the leak.

Did this get fixed? If not, are you putting RTV on the splines of the yoke? I always do, and have had no problem with pinion seals leaking.

[FASTFATBOY]

Test drove it and is back on the rack, dry at the moment but seems to have to sit a while to show the leak.

Did this get fixed? If not, are you putting RTV on the splines of the yoke? I always do, and have had no problem with pinion seals leaking.

It is fixed as of now, I put the RTV on the washer to seal off the splines.

Time will tell, only driven it 30 miles or so as I discovered a leaking brake line and parts are on the way.

[ReEntryRacer]

I go along with Alan on the use of silicone sealer on the splines. Just be sure to use the Permatex Gear Oil Proof version. You will get no more leaks.

[StanIROCZ]

The factory uses pipe dope for the spine. Silicone thould work as well.