New Member/New Car / HPDE&Trackdays/Help NEEDED!!!! Options

[dailydriver]

I'm guessing that ain't quite street legal anymore (at least not in Joyzee/Pennsy, huh? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Surely NOT,
was purchased to replace, or in lieu of adding additional $ to my 13' 1LE Camaro,
figured
seats, harness bar/cage, harnesses, rims /tires, ( already had trailer)
but then my new car would become a track toy (rat)

Yes, that IS a smart move, but, IF I were lucky and wealthy enough to get my hands on a 5th gen Z28, it would HAVE TO become a 'track rat', as I would pull (hopefully) over 500 lbs. out of an already somewhat stripped 5th gen, upgrade the brakes even further, and put a full Penske or Moton reservoir, 4 way adjustable, suspension under it, and Racetech containment cf/kevlar chairs in the gutted interior!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_grin.gif)

This post has been edited by dailydriver: Aug 1 2014, 11:04 PM

[2MCHPWR]

some pics of the beast

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/57.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/571.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/572.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/573.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/574.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/576.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/20140517_NJM_DE2_5272.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_1772-L.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2642_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2643_08-01-2014.jpg)

[2MCHPWR]

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2644_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2645_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2646_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2649_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2650_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2651_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2652_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2653_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2654_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2660_08-01-2014.jpg)

[2MCHPWR]

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2665_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2670_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2672_08-01-2014.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2674_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2679_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2686_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2689_08-01-2014.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2694_08-01-2014.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2700_08-01-2014.jpg)

[StanIROCZ]

Looks like a nicely built car!

[Hookdup]

NASA annual tech had me change braided reinforced hose, as I had a aeroquip 300 series push lok, but they preferred braided ss.
Now since I have a temp annual, I have to disassemble fuel cell to get pic of serial number of bladder,
to coincide with the receipt, which shows less than 5 years old.
is this normal?

The rule used to require metal reinforced hose in the cabin, but was recently changed to just say 'reinforced' in order to allow modern lightweight Kevlar, etc reinforced hoses. A lot of rubber automotive hose has an internal fiber reinforcement, which meets the letter of the rule, but there is no way for tech to verify the reinforcement without cutting your hose, so as a practical matter use an externally reinforced hose.

Physically matching cell marking with the receipt is thorough, not all techs will look for this detail. SOP for me when installing a bladder is to take pics of it, including the expiration date: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=156774

Thanks,
I will try to reach out to previous Owner in WV, and see if he may have serial number pics.
Good idea to document..
Well with advent of phones and associated....
too bad gets lost in computer files......
We do have ADD, we have an Alternate Driving Disorder

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/rich/IMG_2670_08-01-2014.jpg)
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg
http://www.ponycars.net/images/tempimages/..._08-01-2014.jpg

[dailydriver]

That IS one hardcore front (and rear) sway bar.

I am not a big fan of yellow, but that absolutely is one nicely done ride! :thumb:

Is the e-brake eliminated on EVERY hard core, trailered, CMC and up car??

[2MCHPWR]

all pure racecars i've been around have no e- brake because you can't use it when you get off the track. brakes too hot and will stick / melt together.

[Hookdup]

Really appreciate all the input from everyone,
met a really nice guy looking to build an AI car, here in NJ,
He came up to see, and get some directions.............

Still pending brake issues , and todays findings....

After 5 track sessions, front pads were wooped, contacted wildwood,
said were bp-10 pads, and , as such , would be trashed, but rotor life is wonderful....
Reco'd "h" compound, due to being frugal, WW are substantially less, than the Carbotech XP-12 I installed today,
Checked front hubs, all good,

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

I need to get this fixed, all input helps..

Currently rear calipers are marked PBR KZ41-046C6
Brackets are marked K332-071c5

Could the pin guide be worn in the brackets?

If anyone has appropriate part number to order , please provide, need to get fixed..

Rotors are currently 11.5 DIa/.8 thick,
If there is an upgrade , please provide...
thx

[2MCHPWR]

Did you ever check to see if your master has an internal air leak? with car off, pump up brake pedal and then hold it; does it maintain that height or does it sink back down to firewall?

Aren't BP-10 street pads? The H pads are race pads and will bite much better and withstand the heat much better.
11.5 diameter rotors? those are tiny.
You should get the c5 front brake conversion kit so you can run 13 inch front rotors. I think its a pretty straight forward installation:

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/inde...products_id=158

Then get 2 piece rotors from KNS brakes. $250 each rotor/hat combo: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/166_2007...+-+Single+Rotor

Have you had the calipers rebuilt? Many do it themselves but I sent mine to Todd at TCE for the rebuild and replaced the pistons with Wilwood thermolock pistons. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

I don't have experience with these 2 items but they seem awesome:
1) Fays watts link: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7
2) Unbalanced decoupled torque arm: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

[79T/A]

On a side note, the BP10 pads might be the worst pad I have used. No bite and they would fade on a brisk run down a twisty road. Would never judge a cars brakes until the pads are changed.

[JimMueller]

Where does one obtain those sway bars and matching hardware?! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

[2MCHPWR]

suggestion:
ditch that seat and get a halo seat
get netting for window and for your right arm.

like now. speaking from experience.

[FASTFATBOY]

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

We had this issue on a buddies track car but both his rear brakes were lasting 3x what mine were. He was always complaining of a goofy pedal.

Make sure you don't have a heat source near a brake line boiling the fluid to the rear. Under the drivers seat the rear brake lines run right over the top of the Y pipe and there is supposed to be a heat shield right there.

Also make sure the hard line running down the rear end housing hasn't been crushed or kinked.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Aug 6 2014, 07:59 PM

[Hookdup]

Did you ever check to see if your master has an internal air leak? with car off, pump up brake pedal and then hold it; does it maintain that height or does it sink back down to firewall?
Yes, checked, not a problem, not sinking

Aren't BP-10 street pads? The H pads are race pads and will bite much better and withstand the heat much better.
11.5 diameter rotors? those are tiny.
You should get the c5 front brake conversion kit so you can run 13 inch front rotors. I think its a pretty straight forward installation:
Bp-10 are street only pads according to wilwood, and after 500 degrees they disintegrate.
As far as rotor size, we are talking that the rear rotors are 11.5x.8"
Front has 13.75 wilwood gt28 2 PC. With 6 piston radial super lights (6SLR)
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/inde...products_id=158

Then get 2 piece rotors from KNS brakes. $250 each rotor/hat combo: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/166_2007...+-+Single+Rotor

Have you had the calipers rebuilt? Many do it themselves but I sent mine to Todd at TCE for the rebuild and replaced the pistons with Wilwood thermolock pistons. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

I don't have experience with these 2 items but they seem awesome:
1) Fays watts link: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7
2) Unbalanced decoupled torque arm: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

Was going to look into watts conversion, but the car has lasted 16 years this way

On a side note, the BP10 pads might be the worst pad I have used. No bite and they would fade on a brisk run down a twisty road. Would never judge a cars brakes until the pads are changed.

I am very happy with the performance of the XP10 front / xp8 rear, on my 2013 1LE. only until recently,after 10 or so
Track days, did the fronts start to shudder, may be pad transfer, but they are also down to about 30 percent left,
So they will not pass tech anyway. All total, I think they lasted abt 5000 miles, of which there was between 40-50
20-30 min tracks sessions..
And they do get hot, the silver chevrolet logo on the front calipers, is now gold, and the bright red brembos paint, is now sort of a pretty red metallic crimson color!
So that was why I went with the xp12 on the front of the trans am..
Carbotech, has been great in helping and choosing pad compounds, and provides much more personalized service.

Where does one obtain those sway bars and matching hardware?! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Try schrader for front sway bar, that's the only thing I found,
No picture or info exist anywhere I can find for the rear bar
Also, all the front suspension mounts were cut and relocated supposedly back when the car was built by wheel to wheel
In 1998, and rear may be cambered..

suggestion:
ditch that seat and get a halo seat
get netting for window and for your right arm.

like now. speaking from experience.

I do have a Simpson c5r r/s cage net installed, although not in pictures
I am looking for a halo seat, do you have any economical reco's?????
And I still have to purchase a HANS device( that will be first)

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

We had this issue on a buddies track car but both his rear brakes were lasting 3x what mine were. He was always complaining of a goofy pedal.

Make sure you don't have a heat source near a brake line boiling the fluid to the rear. Under the drivers seat the rear brake lines run right over the top of the Y pipe and there is supposed to be a heat shield right there.

Also make sure the hard line running down the rear end housing hasn't been crushed or kinked.

Will check.

So, I am looking for part numbers or kit for bigger rear rotors, and thicker, same or better per calipers
Or a kit that would work.
After talking to wilwood last evening, they said definitely do not install their rear 4 piston radial kit
On a road course car...
Unless you go to a full floating axle, so I guess that means build some sort of nascar rear, frankensteined, to fit an f body????
Thx all.....

[79T/A]

I didn't mean the carbotech pads were bad, in fact I use them and absolutely love their performance. I was referencing the wilwood BP-10 you mentioned. I had a set on my car that came with my calipers and they were absolute garbage, even on the street where they are meant to be used.

[Hookdup]

Can someone explain advantage of de-coupled torque arm,
and is it required.
All seems good , after 5- 25 minute sessions,
I realize I just learning the car,
and being now an AARP member,
I have figured I drive at around 6 or 7 th's.
I have yet to have an agricultural excursion with either the
Camaro or the trans am
And that is over 18 track days, since last October when all this began.
Figuring 4-5 sessions per day.
I guess I fall under , OVER CAUTIOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!
No, I have never ventured from NJMP, as it is only 50 miles from home,
and I really do not want to travel as yet.
Although I know I should to expand ....

Would love to go to WGI, but try to get by the GF, and tell her I will be gone for 5 days instead of 3 is tough....


As I learn car, should I push to get to maybe 8 10th's????
I am sure capability is there, but I seemingly am a painsy A$$.

[FASTFATBOY]

Did you ever check to see if your master has an internal air leak? with car off, pump up brake pedal and then hold it; does it maintain that height or does it sink back down to firewall?
Yes, checked, not a problem, not sinking

Aren't BP-10 street pads? The H pads are race pads and will bite much better and withstand the heat much better.
11.5 diameter rotors? those are tiny.
You should get the c5 front brake conversion kit so you can run 13 inch front rotors. I think its a pretty straight forward installation:
Bp-10 are street only pads according to wilwood, and after 500 degrees they disintegrate.
As far as rotor size, we are talking that the rear rotors are 11.5x.8"
Front has 13.75 wilwood gt28 2 PC. With 6 piston radial super lights (6SLR)
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/inde...products_id=158

Then get 2 piece rotors from KNS brakes. $250 each rotor/hat combo: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/166_2007...+-+Single+Rotor

Have you had the calipers rebuilt? Many do it themselves but I sent mine to Todd at TCE for the rebuild and replaced the pistons with Wilwood thermolock pistons. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

I don't have experience with these 2 items but they seem awesome:
1) Fays watts link: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...7&ModelID=7
2) Unbalanced decoupled torque arm: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

Was going to look into watts conversion, but the car has lasted 16 years this way

On a side note, the BP10 pads might be the worst pad I have used. No bite and they would fade on a brisk run down a twisty road. Would never judge a cars brakes until the pads are changed.

I am very happy with the performance of the XP10 front / xp8 rear, on my 2013 1LE. only until recently,after 10 or so
Track days, did the fronts start to shudder, may be pad transfer, but they are also down to about 30 percent left,
So they will not pass tech anyway. All total, I think they lasted abt 5000 miles, of which there was between 40-50
20-30 min tracks sessions..
And they do get hot, the silver chevrolet logo on the front calipers, is now gold, and the bright red brembos paint, is now sort of a pretty red metallic crimson color!
So that was why I went with the xp12 on the front of the trans am..
Carbotech, has been great in helping and choosing pad compounds, and provides much more personalized service.

Where does one obtain those sway bars and matching hardware?! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Try schrader for front sway bar, that's the only thing I found,
No picture or info exist anywhere I can find for the rear bar
Also, all the front suspension mounts were cut and relocated supposedly back when the car was built by wheel to wheel
In 1998, and rear may be cambered..

suggestion:
ditch that seat and get a halo seat
get netting for window and for your right arm.

like now. speaking from experience.

I do have a Simpson c5r r/s cage net installed, although not in pictures
I am looking for a halo seat, do you have any economical reco's?????
And I still have to purchase a HANS device( that will be first)

Question, here come to bias,
the l/r rotor, which was D/a'd prior to track day, still shows sanding marks,
L/r pad is worn barely, r/r is abt 60%
have an issue here with L/r not working, no spongy pedal, just lo9w pedal on first hit.

We had this issue on a buddies track car but both his rear brakes were lasting 3x what mine were. He was always complaining of a goofy pedal.

Make sure you don't have a heat source near a brake line boiling the fluid to the rear. Under the drivers seat the rear brake lines run right over the top of the Y pipe and there is supposed to be a heat shield right there.

Also make sure the hard line running down the rear end housing hasn't been crushed or kinked.

Will check.

So, I am looking for part numbers or kit for bigger rear rotors, and thicker, same or better per calipers
Or a kit that would work.
After talking to wilwood last evening, they said definitely do not install their rear 4 piston radial kit
On a road course car...
Unless you go to a full floating axle, so I guess that means build some sort of nascar rear, frankensteined, to fit an f body????
Thx all.....

These cars have too much brake on the rear to begin with, you don't need anymore.

When you hop on the brakes and you feel like you ran over 50 consecutive railroad tracks running 130 mph you'll know what I mean.

[Hookdup]

Did that with the Camaro!!!!!!!!!!
Now time for pads on that car,
which I am now using only if I have an event scheduled , with rain in forecast.
Have not made the jump to getting rains for the trans am.
Let alone, I am still running old coded bfg r1's
HArd to swallow 1300 for hoosiers, and a nother 1300 for TOYO rains...

HANS Device (Or if anyone has reco's please advise), and good brakes, then a containment seat , are more important
than going fast....

Speed will come , after safety, reliability , and a piece of mind..........

Car , guess does have capabilities, was dyno tuned at 392RWHP, after
5 pulls,,, rev limiter set to 6600, even though was still making power.
has ls6 , supposedly, based on 243 heads, and a one off Comp cams Xeir LS cam.
Not in catalog, but according to CC, is the most passive xeir lobe profile.
Lost the ram Billet Sfi aluminum fly wheel , and the 6 paddle clutch, when the trans blew up the first day out!

Needless to say it was ultimately my fault,
In a rush to load the car in the trailer, in the rain, the only thing I did not do
was check the trans fluid, as it was supposedly rebuilt by the shop, who the guy I bought it from,,, bought it from...

Was an original MBR Racing case, from Rockland standard gear,,,( THe owner of RSG actually drove this car back in 98-99 in the Motorola/Rolex GT Cup series, according to the original owner)
( Was always #46, originally MBR Racing, Then AIX/ITE at Summit Pt, and VIR, with guy from WV, from 023' to 11')

AND I SNAPPED THE INPUT SHAFT CAUSE IT WAS DRY>>>>>>
I MEAN TRANSMISSION HAD ABSOLUTELY ZERO FLUID IN IT>>>>>>>>>>

Rockland gear was great, sent me a son of tranzilla t56 27spline , with z06 forks and pads,
2 days later,
cheaped out and put an LS7 Chevrolet HP PArts clutch and fly wheel in it and away we go>>>>

LIVE AND LEARN...

This post has been edited by Hookdup: Aug 7 2014, 12:55 AM

[dailydriver]

Really appreciate all the input from everyone,
met a really nice guy looking to build an AI car, here in NJ,
He came up to see, and get some directions.............

Ironically, when I was at a NASA event at Pocono (actual points paying race weekend, not just a track day event) a few years ago, and asked if there were ANY CMC/CMC2, or AI/AIX cars in the region, they all looked at me as if I should be in a straight jacket, and had NO clue what those classes were!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_confused.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_eek2.gif)

Hopefully that has, or will be changing in the future.

This post has been edited by dailydriver: Aug 7 2014, 03:35 PM