[MileHighWS6]

I've been combing through the site and have gleaned quite a bit of information. I'm a converted drag racer and was a top fuel wrench for almost ten years. I picked up this 2002 ws6 m6 car with the hopes of rekindling my interest in motorsports. I sold my 555 powered dragster but kept my 32' enclosed trailer its quite useful for just about anything.
This is going to be a weekend canyon carver, see a few autoX events, and 6-10 track days at high plains raceway east of Denver.
The car is pretty much dead stock right now. My first changes were going to be either koni sports or bilstein hd shocks on strano springs along with hawk pads up front. Next would be stranos 35/22 sway bar kit and panhard. The next pieces will either be a torque arm or ways link and scrap the panhard. I'm gonna but a set of dedicated track wheels and appropriate tires as well.
How does this parts progression look?
What all does everyone bring with them to the track? I assume a set of spare rotors and pads, anything else?
I imagine I'll trailer the car to and from the track it's an hr or so away, I'd hate to break and have to travel all the way back to get a trailer that I could have just brought the first time.

This post has been edited by MileHighWS6: Dec 22 2015, 04:40 AM

[Steve91T]

I had seen where a ccm car that was for sale, had won slot of races here locally, was on 750/200 springs

Yeah I took a guess at the rear spring rates based on what CMC cars were running. I'm probably going to bring a set of 200# springs with me to the track in case the 250's are too stiff. I've got a stock 21mm rear bar on there now and I'm also going to bring the 19mm with me.

[MileHighWS6]

Ordering konis, springs, and bars on Monday.

[79T/A]

Good starting point. While you are in there, replace any worn out bushings with Moog problem solvers.

But one big thing: BRAKES! Get some fresh rotors if needed, some stainless braided lines, and some track capable pads up front. The most important thing is fluid. You really need some high temp capable racing fluid. Lots use the ATE type 200, I've had great luck with the Motul RBF600. Brakes are the most important part of the car on track, specifically fluid. You can feel pads begin to overheat and fade. If you back off a little the brakes will start to come back. However, if you boil fluid, you will have no brakes at all. You can't feel it coming, they just stop working and won't come back until you bleed some fresh fluid through.

With the suspension mods you are doing, and the power even a stock LS1 makes, you will be going pretty quickly on track once you have some seat time. Want to make sure the brakes work well so you stay safe out there.

[MileHighWS6]

Thanks TA

[SuperMacGuy]

One additional note related to brakes- once the front hubs wear out you can get a good amount of play, and you'll have pad knockback. So practice the pre-brake pedal tap. I don't wanna load you up with too many things, but that can happen. With stock sized (275) tires it won't happen as quickly as say 315's up front. But F-bodies have a way of wearing down hubs (poor factory design), and there are several threads regarding hubs and replacements (I had a near miss on track specifically). So just keep an eye on them.
You could also consider some brake ducts to aid cooling too, in ref to 79/TA's comment.

[MileHighWS6]

Stainless brake line kit, power flusher, new pads and rotors are on the list as well