[Steve91T]

So I've got a 97 SS that now looks like a mismatched LS1 SS. I'm running a craigslist LT1 that's bone stock, down to the mani's and Y pipe. The engine sat for years before I got it. I did a dry compression and leak down test and my numbers were all over the place. I took the chance that it just needed to be run. Long story short, it took a while but it started to run pretty good. So now I've done 3 track days and it and it blew me away. I fully expected to go home with no less than half of the Pistons I started the day with. Not only did it not miss a beat, it used at most 1/2 quart of oil, no smoke, and seemed happy as hell all day long.

So my plan was for an LS1 swap later this year. But now I'm thinking this engine might be healthier than I thought. TT3 rules require me to have around 350 rwhp for my comp weight (3400 lbs). I can knock 100 lbs off the nose by going to an LS1 and light flywheel and clutch. The problem I have is my LT1 isn't worth anything. $500? Maybe? I figure the LS1 swap will cost me at least $3k. But LT's, cam and tune will be about $1500. I figure both should get me close enough to 350 rwhp.

Right now I'm way down on power, so I have to do something. I really want an LS1, but is it worth an extra $1500? At the same time I'm afraid I'm going to buy headers and a cam and the next day it's going to blow up. What would you guys do?

[Steve91T]

Do you all think the LT1 just needs the Canton pan to avoid oil pressure issues? My 95 with 55k miles hasn't seen a road course since 2008, but I'm thinking of trying it again. It's been driven about 20 weekends a year since then with regular oil changes. Stock short block, stock oil pan, top end package making around 360 whp. I tend to shift below 6k on track and my local tracks are Summit Point and VIR. Just wondering if an Accusump is something to consider. Also, on the Canton pan, will it fit with Hooker long tubes?

Hope this doesn't look like a thread jack. I'm sort of in the same boat with my LT1.

I've done a lot of track days at VIR and CMP and I've never lost oil pressure with the Canton pan. The old engine I had was a 396 LT1 making 380 rwhp (i know, that's low for a stroker) and that pan was all that I needed.

The last 3 track days this year on my bone stock LT1 I never lost oil pressure in the corners. And that was on track tires pulling 1.1 g's.

A lot of people run accusumps, but in my case I don't need it.

Are you relying on the factory gauge for that info? I had a 30 PSI sensor (below 30 psi it turned on an Autometer Pro light) and I saw it "constantly" autocrossing my 1992 Z28 on street tires with a TPIS oil pan (with a diamond "windage tray" and basic crank scraper). I even turned the light on with the 3 quart accusump running. This was on Sumitomo street tires. I might not have seen the light as much with a 15 psi sending unit, but 30 was my comfort limit since I might be at 6,400 rpm when the light came on. When that motor came apart (after 1,200 total miles), the #4 main bearing was wiped and the crank needed turned.

No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter.

[trackbird]

No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter.

Oh yea, I remember that gauge. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[Steve91T]

No Autometer gauge. Sending unit in the unused port above the oil filter.

Oh yea, I remember that gauge. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Ha. Yeah the red blinking oil temp gauge? Lol. Talk about being destracting. Reminds me, I need to change the settings on that thing to not blink until 320.

[Steve91T]

So maybe the Canton pans really do work.

I'm torn with what to do with my dads LS1. Improved racing baffles and scrapers or a Canton pan.

[RichJ]

Do the LT1 Canton pans fit without modification? I know their Evo ones require some tweaking.

[79T/A]

So maybe the Canton pans really do work.

I'm torn with what to do with my dads LS1. Improved racing baffles and scrapers or a Canton pan.

Improved racing, no question. Baffle, crank scraper, oil cooler adapter. Their parts have incredible fit and finish. Never worry about oil pressure again.

[CrashTestDummy]

+1! IRs stuff looks and fits like it's off the GM assembly lines, and I mean that as a compliment!

[Steve91T]

What do you guys think, should I throw cheap LT's on it? The thing is I need to rework the exhaust to add a cat before my state inspection in February. So I'm kinda thinking if I'm going to run this LT1, a little more power would be nice. Of course then I'd need a tune. Idk, think it's worth it?

[nape]

Of course then I'd need a tune. Idk, think it's worth it?

I'd make sure you can line up an LT1 tuner before you make that decision. Most places couldn't care less about Gen2s anymore.

[CrashTestDummy]

^^ What he said!

When we got our 95 Z28, we took it to a local shop who did the tune. They did a decent job, as the car then put something like 408 HP to the ground afterward. After fighting getting the thing to pass emissions tests two years later, I took the car back to the SAME tuner to see if I could get an 'emissions' tune, they wouldn't even talk to me.

I ended up going with PCMs For Less, getting a spare PCM with an 'emissions' tune.

[Steve91T]

Carolina Auto Masters in Raligh still messes with LT1's...for now. They are only 3 hrs away. A stock LT1 with LT's should have no problem with emissions so I'm not worried about that. I think the LT1 will get me through next season then my so winter project will be an LS1 swap. I can't see going more than 2 years with this engine. I just can't make up my mind if LT's are worth the cost.

[nape]

Unless they're really cheap, the answer is no.

Work on setup and driving. There's a lot more to be found in the chassis and learning to tweak the suspension than in 20RWHP. You'll still have the same chassis after the engine swap, not so for the LTs.

[Steve91T]

Unless they're really cheap, the answer is no.

Work on setup and driving. There's a lot more to be found in the chassis and learning to tweak the suspension than in 20RWHP. You'll still have the same chassis after the engine swap, not so for the LTs.

Looks like around $400 ish for LT's and a Y.

I was only considering it because I have to redo my exhaust soon anyway too add a cat. Also I'm going to be racing TT3, which means I'll be way low on HP. That's why I was kinda thinking whatever extra hp I can gain will be nice.

Actually I just remembered there might be a new class, TT4, which is a lower power to weight. I might fight that class better.

When I was setting up the car. I copied what worked for others and I'm really happy with how the car handles. I'm not going to change a thing for a while. I'll see how it is at VIR which is a much faster track. That's where I may have to make some changes.