The new to me 1SC.... Options

[Steve91T]

Ok here's my list of what I ordered. Please tell me if I missed something or if there's something I should consider doing while the engine is out.

Texas Speed cam kit
224/224 .600/.600 (112 LSA)
PAC 1218 single beehive springs
7.400" pushrods
Camshaft bolt/gasket kit w/ARP bolt
LS7 lifters

GM head gaskets
GM LS2 timing chain
Texas Speed ported LS6 oil pump


Improved Racing
Oil pan baffles
Crank scraper
O ring
Oil tube brace

Turn One
Rebuilt rack

GM motor mounts

Tune

Ahh, forgot the ARP head bolts. I knew I'd forget something. What else did I forget? Don't say the blower.

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Oct 12 2016, 11:47 AM

[JimMueller]

Unless you are planning to remove the heads a number of times (or if money isn't really an object), I'd probably opt for standard GM non-reusable head bolts. The ARP bolts are saving you the cost of buying numerous sets of single-use OEM head bolts over the course of time, but bolts still are a pain in the ass when you have to clean out the bolt holes. Studs don't have the problem with cleaning out the bolt holes, but they are even more expensive and some have difficulty pulling the heads with the motor still in the car with studs.

I'd put the money I saved on bolts/studs towards a better timing chain, such as the Katech HME-G68V-2 ($150) or the slightly newer and beefier Hinson IWIS C7R timing chain ($160). I've read that you will have a lot of chain slack with the LS2 chain without a chain dampener. For my LS3 I used the Katech with the OEM LS3 chain dampener, but I don't recall what type of dampener may be available for your block or any special installation considerations.

Here's a running list I have for my future top end rebuild; maybe you'll see some generic part types in here which will tickle your memory. I may not need all of it, but I like to have a complete list of part numbers for ease of ordering.

Lifters (.035" preload +/- .010", requires ~.190" longer pushrod): Johnson ST2126LSR
Head gaskets (custom 4.080" bore, .045" thickness): Cometic
3/8" intake pushrods, .145 wall, .062" orifice (5/16" ball ends), tapered?: Manton Series 3
3/8" exhaust pushrods, .145 wall, .062" orifice (5/16" ball ends), tapered?: Manton Series 3
LS3 assembled cylinder head (hollow int valve): OEM new, send to Darin Morgan for porting
Dual valvesprings w/ tool steel retainers: Brian Tooley SK001
Rocker arm trunnion kit: Straub Technologies
head bolts/studs: Undecided
Water pump gaskets: OEM
valve cover gaskets: OEM
intake manifold bolt (I have one snapped bolt): OEM
Spark plugs: NGK TR6
Front cover seal: OEM
Front cover gasket: OEM
Rear cover (with seal & gasket): OEM
Crankshaft bolt: OEM
Exhaust gasket: OEM
Header bolts: Stage 8 Locking
2-Piece LS2 Gen IV timing cover: Edelbrock 4255
Camshaft
Crank scraper
Oil filter pan magnet: FilterMag SS365-Pair
Clutch: RPS Twin Billet Carbon 2, lightened from Tony Mamo
Slave cylinder & throwout bearing:OEM
Remote clutch speed bleeder: Tick Performance
1 7/8" header primary's: ARH

[Ojustracing]

lifters? Lifter tray, Oil pick-up tube o-ring, exhaust gaskets. I'm going to assume valve cover, intake, water pump, front cover gaskets and seal. Valve seals? oil pan gasket. If the motor is out of the car for the heads TTY bolts are easy.

[Steve91T]

lifters? Lifter tray, Oil pick-up tube o-ring, exhaust gaskets. I'm going to assume valve cover, intake, water pump, front cover gaskets and seal. Valve seals? oil pan gasket. If the motor is out of the car for the heads TTY bolts are easy.

Thanks, I edited my post to include the lifters. I didn't get lifter trays though. I'll order them. I also ordered exhaust manifold gaskets, and the oil pan gasket.

I ordered the front gasket kit from Texas Speed, I'll have to look up what exactly it includes.

I didn't do valve seals. I don't know how to change them. Are they easy?

[Ojustracing]

Steve

Yes they are easy especially after the valve springs are off. I'm a bit confused. I know the motor you removed munched the lifters and cam. Are you just fixing what is broken? or did you find another motor?

John

[Steve91T]

Steve

Yes they are easy especially after the valve springs are off. I'm a bit confused. I know the motor you removed munched the lifters and cam. Are you just fixing what is broken? or did you find another motor?

John

No I'm just fixing what's broke. I decided to pull the engine because I know it needs motor mounts and I want to drop the pan to add the improved racing goodies.

[Ojustracing]

exhaust manifold to y-pipe gaskets. Coolant cross over pipe gasket. Again I don't know what comes with the gasket set. Also you might want to consider a clutch/throw-out bearing while apart. This is the issue when the engine is out/apart. What to do/not do. You might also consider having a machine shop check the heads. They could install the springs/seals when apart. Again Do/not do.

[JimMueller]

GM LS6 timing chain damper (PN reference): http://store.katechengines.com/damper-timi...--ls6-p260.aspx
An alternative: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls6-timin...o-88958607.html

[Steve91T]

Actually I wasn't even planning on separating the tranny from the engine. It already has an LS7 clutch in it and possibly a light flywheel. I can't remember on the flywheel. Either way, it felt great when I drove it, so I'm going to leave it alone.

It's really tough to decide what to replace and what to leave alone. I'm so tempted to just drop the whole engine off at a shop and let them go through it. But that's a ton of money. I really want to just get it back together and see how it does.

[Steve91T]

My mom and dad came over last night to eat my food and drink my beer. While drinking my beer we went to the garage and looked at the engine sitting on the garage floor. I showed him the carbon on the heads and we both agree that the very least I'll drop them off at a machine shop and have them cleaned up and decked. The machine shop said they could bump compression up a bit without causing any problems. I'd have to do more research on that though.

Then we started talking about the bottom end. While its out, I could drop it off and have it freshened up also. The shop said about $1k for labor. So $1500 total would be a low end price, but that doesn't include the parts I just ordered.

If my dad was definitely going to keep this thing for a long time, I'd say let's get it freshened up. But he may only keep it for a few years. I really don't know.

As of right now, with just the parts I've ordered, we're into the car for $4600 plus whatever tuning costs. Another thing that he absolutely needs is new wheels. So let's say after cleaning the heads and a mail order tune, we're at $5k. Another $1k for wheels and tires after I sell the 16's. So that's $6k for a mildly cammed LS1 with 172k miles on the bottom end. Or $7500 or so for the same thing but with a fresh engine.


I'm torn.

[nape]

I'd go with the $6k all-in unless you're planning on running a lot of auto-x or track days. Even then, I'd probably just save for a fresh short block in case you ka-boom that one.

With those miles, a fresh engine won't bring any more money unless you find someone who REALLY likes the car.

As far as machine work on the heads, I'd get a quote and run that vs. Ebay 799 heads. There are a bunch of sellers on there for ~$500 shipped already freshened. If your's need guides too, it might be a push.

This post has been edited by nape: Oct 14 2016, 01:26 AM

[Steve91T]

I'd go with the $6k all-in unless you're planning on running a lot of auto-x or track days. Even then, I'd probably just save for a fresh short block in case you ka-boom that one.

With those miles, a fresh engine won't bring any more money unless you find someone who REALLY likes the car.

As far as machine work on the heads, I'd get a quote and run that vs. Ebay 799 heads. There are a bunch of sellers on there for ~$500 shipped already freshened. If your's need guides too, it might be a push.

Yeah I agree. The machine shop said it was about $200 to clean and deck the heads plus parts.

[Steve91T]

Turn One is looking at a 2 week turn around to rebuild the rack. Any recommendations for rebuilt units anywhere else?

[Steve91T]

More fun parts showed up!!!

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/52B5822B-D7D6-4A32-A73B-F7E21B45C6E2.jpg)

[trackbird]

More fun parts showed up!!!

NOW it's a party! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[79T/A]

My ACdelco rebuild from rock auto has given zero issues. Turn one builds a great pump, but they don't do anything special to the racks.

[Steve91T]

My ACdelco rebuild from rock auto has given zero issues. Turn one builds a great pump, but they don't do anything special to the racks.

How much did you pay? Looks expensive

[79T/A]

A reman acdelco rack is 225 on rock auto, including a $75 core charge. Turn one rebuilds start at $225 plus shipping both ways. Even though you have to pay to shop your core back, it still ends up being cheaper. The rebuild process is no different between the two.

[Steve91T]

Did some cleaning tonight.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/A3D40820-8CD7-42A1-B2B9-CF16B824EB02.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/7AEC314F-7745-405B-A7B9-0D6DFF2D1992.jpg)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/2014F5B5-D665-4E71-8F37-8B7DF9618564.jpg)


I think I'm going to clean the heads up myself.


(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/37B2FB49-6E33-4E50-B718-5DB2CCF433F3.jpg)

[Steve91T]

A reman acdelco rack is 225 on rock auto, including a $75 core charge. Turn one rebuilds start at $225 plus shipping both ways. Even though you have to pay to shop your core back, it still ends up being cheaper. The rebuild process is no different between the two.

Oh I see it. I was looking at the wrong thing.

Thank you.