 windshield removal, and getting speedglass |
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 Dec 18 2004, 04:01 AM
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#21
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Senior Member  Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27  |
Here are my latest pics....
(IMG:http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/albums/album04/IMG_1940.sized.jpg) (IMG:http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/albums/album04/IMG_1939.thumb.jpg) (IMG:http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/albums/album04/IMG_1938.sized.jpg) lemme know if you are looking for specific pics....I have it all apart now for your viewing pleasure.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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Dec 18 2004, 04:57 AM
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#22
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LS1 Inside! / Toolbox / Mechanical Engineer Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 5-February 04 From: NJ Member No.: 179 |
Randy-
Thanks!!! The more pictures, the merrier! You, Steve, they all help!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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Dec 19 2004, 05:48 PM
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#23
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Benched Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 535 Joined: 16-March 04 From: Northern California Member No.: 273 |
Friday Nite Camaro windshield removal thing is something I can go a whole lifetime and not do again! Not hard really just sucky.
The windshield removal tool described above will help get the glue IN AREAS,NOT ALL. But helps get the window away from frame in places to take the BFH and the smallest prybar in the set sharpened to scape the glue from under the window. The window is still in ONE shattered piece though (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) Actually the window tool gets about 50% of it so it does have SOME merit. Its not going to get the window out in on piece, but will help the task. Problem is the glue on our winshields does not keep next to the edge of window in area being so far in the tool cant touch it. And the rear gosh darnit,has 2 strips of glue outer/inner (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) about 3"s between each other. Suprisingly enough the window tool did get the outer strip of glue 80%+. Even more wierd is the inner strip of glue I pounded the small sharpened prybar all the way around the inner edge to release the glue 1/2' at a time.BE CAREFUL not to damage fiberglass I didnt but you can real easy if not careful. The weirdest part I was not nice to it at all and it came out in on piece,UNBROKEN w/ some minor scratches on the tint thats all (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Well back to the motor removal (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/whip.gif) :yawn: (Warning Shards of glass will pop all over) don't forget wrap around safety glasses hat helps keep glass from hair a shop vac help keep the mess minimal keep your mouth shut (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) Tony |
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Dec 19 2004, 06:58 PM
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#24
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Senior Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 |
Keep us posted on the rear Lexan install...I still have stock glass because it looks so much nicer, and the Lexan looks like it would be "fun" to get in there with the big bends and all.....plus budget $$$'s are otherwise committed now....
But soon.....so take some pics and keep us posted. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) |
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Jan 21 2005, 04:54 AM
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#25
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Benched Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 535 Joined: 16-March 04 From: Northern California Member No.: 273 |
The rear lexan has really good shape as it comes from them. Already has the curve in it pretty neat just a little oversize at the bottom. Which is the first thing I want to run by you guys.
So the install kit has taper head flush mount screws. So counter sink the holes on the lexan correct,with the taper shaving type counter sink bit? What would you say is a good margin for the screws to edge of lexan to keep from cracking out in future or in general... 1/2" ? I don't know how sensitive this stuff is. I have checked 4 hardware stores for the aluminum T stock. Oh I have found tubing in all sizes which might be used for some other things I'm gonna do. Found aluminum flat bar,angle bar,channel but no damn T bars. The channel stock though might be alright for braces,its double sides might provide good strength? Seems most rigid and less twisting the angle stock does when flexed. I also thought I could just screw two pieces of angle together to form a T. Coarse thats double cost (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Any thoughts? I'll put picks up when done,its going to be tinted rear and the black out edging. Edited: To add the pics, did not tint windscreen http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...283295175TJGPHb http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278602143bKIOxz http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278601802BLXunR http://community.webshots.com/photo/149499...278601517ipeHSe |
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