Thoughts on Grant anti-theft steering wheel lock? Options

[robz71lm7]

It can be viewed here:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...11919&langId=-1

Any thoughts on the effectiveness? I've never seen one up close so I can't tell a whole lot about it. I already have a Grant Formula 1 wheel and can get this lock cheap.

[v7guy]

I would think that just a detachable wheel would be more than enough. Personally, I wouldn't want something bright red drawing attention.
Push comes to shove they'll flat bed the car out, steering wheel be damned. I've seen it happen once and heard of it happening quite a few times.

[nape]

Haha, that wouldn't stop any of the repo guys I've met. Drag it up on the roll back and away they go. I'd guess that any thief that wants it would be the same, it might stop casual thieves/joy riders though.

[robz71lm7]

Haha, that wouldn't stop any of the repo guys I've met. Drag it up on the roll back and away they go. I'd guess that any thief that wants it would be the same, it might stop casual thieves/joy riders though.

I could encase the car in concrete and if they wanted it they'd get it. I'm not naive enough to think that I could stop everyone. You both hit the nail on the head I'm just looking to slow someone down. I'm guessing the lock is easily defeated then all you'd have to do is throw on a generic wheel from autozone or pepboys.

[axoid]

I just installed the race version.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...11919&langId=-1

[robz71lm7]

Installed! I managed to get it off eBay for $60. I did have to grind a bolt head to get the locking piece to sit flush, but all is well. I am definitely going to have paint the bright red cover black.

It won't stop someone determined but should stop the joy riders and amateur thieves.

[robz71lm7]

Well that was quick. I just ordered a regular Grant quick release like Bill did. I'm going to remove the Grant security system. After thinking about it some more I decided the fact that four 8-32 screws secure the locking mechanism to the base wasn't safe enough. And with the Kirkey I'm going to want to release the steering wheel all the time and this is a much sturdier design for that. The only downside is I'll lose the horn.

[slowTA]

I'm sure you can keep the horn somehow. Maybe use one of those coiled wires that will stretch as you turn the wheel. The wheel might wind up being tethered to the car!

[John_D.]

...with the Kirkey I'm going to want to release the steering wheel all the time and this is a much sturdier design for that. The only downside is I'll lose the horn.

I'm going to put a horn button somewhere else. Haven't decided where yet.

Considering using my factory Second Gear Start momentary switch on the dash for it... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[CrashTestDummy]

Axoid, did it move the wheel any closer to you? If so, how much? I have been interested in one of these for a while for the Firebird.

Heh, additionally, we're thinking of INSTALLING a horn on the car. It is amazing how many people will just stand there, in the way, talking (well actually yelling) to their buddies while we are trying to get somewhere. They don't even pay attention when we pop the car in neutral and pat the gas. Another CP friend noted the same problem with his Mustang. We're both thinking about adding a horn. It is amazing we need to consider it.

[robz71lm7]

I'm not Bill and I have a 4th gen so take it for what it's worth...

My wheel is now further away from me compared to when it was just attached with a standard Grant adapter. I have to verify this with grant but you might be able to attach one of their 1 or 2" spacers to it in order to move it closer. I have a pic of the cheap stamped steel version below. I used adapter #3021 which is shown in Bill's link. It's pinless and SFI approved.

Ignore how dirty the car is I've been busy:

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com//IMG_1135.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com//IMG_1124.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com//IMG_1125.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com//IMG_1128.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com//IMG_1130.jpg)

Amazingly I was thinking to myself I'd need a horn for autocross. Last year there was a cone in the middle of the finish on course at one event. I came to a stop like I should pointed and yelled and sat for what seemed like 15 seconds but the corner workers were sleeping. I ended up having to take off (another car on course) and wasn't able to get a re-run since the workers said they hadn't seen anything. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant.gif) That's a good use for the horn. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[slowTA]

Something tells me third and fourth gen steering columns are very similar from the tilt mechanism to the wheel. How much room do you have between the turn signal wand and the steering wheel. I know I lost some room when I went with the Grant wheel, but it looks like you can barely squeeze your fingers in there!!

Is there only 1 way to put the wheel back on now? In other words, can you put the wheel on crooked or does it only slip on in one place?

This post has been edited by slowTA: Mar 11 2006, 03:47 AM

[robz71lm7]

It does look and is close to the wiper/blinker/cruise control stalk. I drove it around for 20 minutes tonight and had no issues with clearance-even did a little "slaloming."

I think these will work with it:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ategoryId=15337

[robz71lm7]

Well I ordered a 1" spacer:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv...ategoryId=15337

#4001

[CrashTestDummy]

So what's the difference between the Grant 3001 and the 3021? Does the 3001 work with factory wheels? That's what we are presently running.

[robz71lm7]

3001 fits standard 3 bolt racing wheels whereas 3021 fits 3 bolt AND Grant 5 bolt pattern. Now why the 3001 is more money when it lacks the 3 bolt/5 bolt adapter (you can see it in the jeg's pics) is beyond me.

I'm replacing the adapter with that spacer to move it closer to me.

I'm not sure a stock wheel could work with any quick release-at least not a stock 4th gen wheel. My factory wheel had a center hole that was splined and fits onto the splined concentric stock shaft and is retained by a single nut.

Is there only 1 way to put the wheel back on now? In other words, can you put the wheel on crooked or does it only slip on in one place?

Somehow I missed this.

Yes you can put it on crooked, but it's not likely since the number of splines in the shaft is pretty low. Being off one spline is pretty obvious. I did pay attention when I pressed on the grant splined adapter to make sure my wheel could end up centered.

I think I freaked my neighbour out the other day when he saw me open the door, release my steering wheel, get out and then reverse the process. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[robz71lm7]

Ok here's the old piece that bolted to the SFI quick release via three socket head cap screws:

Front
(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com/IMG_1157.jpg)

Back
(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com/IMG_1158.jpg)

Here's the steering wheel with the 1" spacer/adapter:

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com/IMG_1170.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.robmeadway.com/IMG_1172.jpg)

If anyone sees anything wrong with this (safety wise) let me know. The only thing holding the aluminum disk on before was three socket head cap screws. The only difference now is that the 5 screws are spaced out further. This does put more bending load on the three screws at the base, but I think it's more than fine. The spacer is actually meant to replace the stamped metal piece I showed earlier that is used with regular (non quick release) Grant steering wheel adapters.




Another option is these Longacre steering wheel spacers.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...&action=product

They're available in .25, .50 and .75" thicknesses from what I can tell. I just didn't want to make the three bolts in the center any longer. I though that would be more of a strength issue than the spacer shown above.

[slowTA]

You'll be fine like that.

This post has been edited by slowTA: Mar 17 2006, 10:19 PM

[Blainefab]

My solution on a Subaru is similar to Rob's: I needed to come back 2 1/4", so used 1 7/8" long x 1/2" dia spacers with 6 ea #10-32 flathead screws. Screws are 144ksi min tensile strengh, fully threaded into 3/8" thick 6061 T6 aluminum, bolted to Summit QD with 3ea 1/4-20 hex cap screws. Looks kinda spindly, but using the root dia of the 10-32 screws works out to 2859#, each of 6. Looks to me that most of the loading will get translated to tension by leverage on the spacers. If the driver can put 50# of force on the wheel, and the lever ratio is approx the radius of the wheel/radius of the spacers, or about 27x, or 1377#. Sound reasonable?

(IMG:http://members.cruzio.com/~ablaine/stiwheel.jpg)

[robz71lm7]

Nice setup Alan.

Well doing some quick math (I must've been lazy earlier)...

For 5 10-32 socket head screws you have a total area (using root dia) of 0.094 in^2
For 6 10-32 socket head screws you have a total area (using root dia) of 0.1080 in^2

They're 144 ksi tensile as you stated.

For 3 1/4-20 socket head cap screws I have a total area of 0.0839 in^2

But they're rated for 180 ksi.

Another factor is that the three screws are inboard of the 5 or 6 so they are subjected to higher loads when the wheel trys to bend about the center.

You have four basic loads here:

1) The driver turning the wheel (torque) puts a shear force on all the screws.

2) If the driver pulls on the wheel (i.e. not strapped in properly to brace him or herself) you get a a axial load in tension on all the screws

3) #2 results in a bending moment with the lever arm being from the outside of the wheel to the center which is counteracted by the screws which are another distance out from the center- the ratio Alan stated this puts tension on some of the bolts and compression on the others

4) The screws at the base are subjected to another bending moment that's the function of the 1 or 2" spacer

This would be easier in MS Paint.

Maybe I'll get bored and do some calculations later.