Extra funds, can't decide Options

[JimMueller]

I've got a couple thousand to play with, and need help making up my mind...

- different cam (2nd gear too sluggish at low RPM's) ($400?)
- Ported Fast90 intake & throttle body ($1500)
- new QTP/Kooks/ARH headers ($800) & y-pipe (mine are cracked inside the collector and at the cat)
- custom valved shocks to match my 650/300 springs (DA's right now)
- brake upgrade
- adjustable rear sway bar setup
- fix A/C (been dead for years)
- suggestions are welcome


I've made up my mind on new headers, because I can't get accurate wbo2 readings with the leaks in both banks. Even though it adds cost, cats will be on it to keep the noise and odor at an acceptable level.

I'm not sure how critical the custom valved shocks are. I also haven't found an easy way to obtain custom valving while maintaining the stock mounting style.

It's cheaper to buy the cam now and wait on the intake & TB, but if I change heads later then I'll probably need to change the cam again. Buying the intake/tb now won't affect my later decision, but costs more now. I don't particularly want to spend the labor on installing new heads now.

[Jeff94TA]

The car is perfect just the way it is Jim, you don't need to do any upgrades. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotflmao.gif) Yes, Jim and I are in the same class so I don't want to see him get any faster.

[tonycook]

I may be able to help with the A/C. What do you need to fix it?

I have the QTP headers with no cats, I haven't noticed any odor but they are noisy.

Tony

[JimMueller]

I have no idea what the A/C needs. It stopped blowing cold air 3-4 years ago. I consider repairing it everytime I get some extra funds, but well, usually it goes to speed parts instead (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Jeff - That's why I post in other forums, to keep my classmates at bay (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I was considering going in whatever class Randall & Mark would be in... but if Mikael, Mr. Giddens, et al are in the same class as well (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[kookamunga]

being in Hawaii I say fix the AC lol

[CrashTestDummy]

being in Hawaii I say fix the AC lol

Yeah, since it is kind of integral with the car. Additionally, since Fla is a lot like SE Texas, I'd say A/C. It is a necessity here.

[JimMueller]

OK, but the A/C should cost less than a grand. What next?

[CrashTestDummy]

Headers and a cam. Better yet, headers and gear.

Also, add some lightness. It is amazing the performance gain you can get by unloading a few unnecessary parts. :-)

[JimMueller]

I doubt the new headers will give me much more than the headers I already have unless the merge collectors are worth something. So you're saying to I need to switch from 3.73's to 4.10's? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Rob Hood]

I doubt the new headers will give me much more than the headers I already have unless the merge collectors are worth something. So you're saying to I need to switch from 3.73's to 4.10's? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Headers (with merge collectors) and shocks are what I'd do in your situation. Headers to fix the leak, and the shocks to put more distance between you and your competition...(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

If you still have the OE rearend housing, I'd stay away from the 4.10s. gear teeth are too thin to handle the load compared to 3.73s or 3.42s. If you upgrade to a 12-bolt or 9", you'll be adding weight.