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KCG
post Sep 15 2017, 10:40 AM
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Pulling/dropping the eng/trans out of my 3rd gen soon. Whats the best way?
I've dropped them out of a 4th gen a few times and would do it that way again, but this is my first 3rd.
what say you ...
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The Batman
post Sep 15 2017, 11:39 AM
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QUOTE (KCG @ Sep 15 2017, 10:40 AM) *
Pulling/dropping the eng/trans out of my 3rd gen soon. Whats the best way?
I've dropped them out of a 4th gen a few times and would do it that way again, but this is my first 3rd.
what say you ...

I never had an issue going from the top of any of my 3rd gens. Heck, I had my 454 big block in and out of one of them more times than I can count. The 4th gen has the engine recessed much farther back, which makes going from the bottom easier than the top.
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trackbird
post Sep 15 2017, 11:41 AM
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He's right. I've even installed one with a 700R4 hanging on it (that's the hard way in case you were wondering). Just drop the trans, pull the radiator and lift the motor out of the top. Take the hood off to save some headaches. Just put an old blanket on the roof and lay it there. Watch the hood hinges, they can scratch the B pillar if you leave them on the hood (did that once).
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KCG
post Sep 15 2017, 12:57 PM
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I should have stated I'm pulling eng/trans together, 305/T5.
Everyone still think its easier out the top?
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BumpaD_Z28
post Sep 15 2017, 01:10 PM
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yep
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slowTA
post Sep 15 2017, 01:42 PM
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Top, I've pulled a SBC/T5 that way a few times and then also LS1/T56! Pulling the balancer off helps some too.

Another trick I've picked up is that you gain some breathing room by pushing the engine lift in from the side instead of the front. With the beaks on these cars it works surprisingly well.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yYnvIuWINB7QXgqf1
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KCG
post Sep 15 2017, 02:07 PM
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Thanks for that pic Chris.

I don't want to be a dumbass and not take everyones advice since I asked for it, but it just seems easier to me to not have to pull any of the engine apart, or wiring up top, or exhaust down below other than disconnecting from the cat.
Remove 6 k-member bolts and trans crossmember and everything just sits there as you lift the body. Obviously all the same hoses, lines, rad have to come out either way.
Someone talk me out of this! lol

I guess maybe the biggest fear I have is scratching the paint on install. This car is being pulled apart for a color change.
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GCrites80s
post Sep 15 2017, 02:20 PM
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People don't do the out-the-bottom thing on 3rd gens very often at all. Perhaps if they're changing the entire front suspension and K-member at the same time they might go bottom side.
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nape
post Sep 15 2017, 02:23 PM
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I'd go out the top, done it a bunch of times. I wouldn't pull it with the trans though. The engine comes out nice and level without the trans. Once you have it ready to pull, the T5 is only 4 more bolts, and T5s are light.

It's way easier to install the trans with the clutch hydraulics hooked up too since the clutch alignment tools never get it perfect. Get trans up and to get it to slide the last 1/2", have someone push the clutch pedal. Done.
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trackbird
post Sep 15 2017, 06:15 PM
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QUOTE (KCG @ Sep 15 2017, 10:07 AM) *
Thanks for that pic Chris.

I don't want to be a dumbass and not take everyones advice since I asked for it, but it just seems easier to me to not have to pull any of the engine apart, or wiring up top, or exhaust down below other than disconnecting from the cat.
Remove 6 k-member bolts and trans crossmember and everything just sits there as you lift the body. Obviously all the same hoses, lines, rad have to come out either way.
Someone talk me out of this! lol

I guess maybe the biggest fear I have is scratching the paint on install. This car is being pulled apart for a color change.



Drop the trans out, it doesn't take that long. You have to pull the driveshaft, torque arm, crossmember and shifter anyway, pull the 4 bolts and pull the trans off of the back of the bellhousing and a few more bolts to knock the starter and bellhousing off (don't forget to pull the clutch slave cylinder off of the bellhousing). The trans is like 92 lbs, I used to drain the fluid, remove the bolts and just pull them out by hand and set them on my chest and then down under the trans tunnel (I was younger then). Pull the 4 nuts to drop the y pipe off of the engine and remove the radiator hoses and radiator, then pull the engine with the clutch and flywheel and balancer in place. An impact gun makes short work of the clutch and flywheel, but it will come out either way. Also, there are ground wires connected to the wiring harness and attached to some of the bellhousing bolts. You're going to want those loose before you start lifting the motor and find out that the harness is still attached solidly to it and now you're having issues getting to the bolts due to the cowl. It can be done, but it's "one more thing".

If you drop the K member, you have to deal with the brake lines. One of which is anchored to the k member under the oil pan (as I remember, it's been a while). I really don't think you'll find that to be easier, and then you get into tearing down the suspension. It's a lot of extra work.
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slowTA
post Sep 16 2017, 12:20 AM
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FYI, the engine leveler I have in the picture makes pulling the engine and trans together so much easier. It takes a little time and elbow grease to move it all the way, but that's obviously my opinion.

Also, if you drop the motor out the bottom don't forget the steering, sway bar, whatever those triangle supports are called that go from the crossmember to the frame, and the struts/springs are not coil overs. I might be wrong on this one but it will be a tight fit to get the motor passed the steering box.
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CrashTestDummy
post Sep 16 2017, 02:20 AM
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Engine leveler is a MUST. While I could see dropping, you have to have the brake lines pre-configured to do that, and deal with the struts and springs.
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