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#1
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 60 Joined: 11-November 07 From: Baltimore, Maryland Member No.: 2,000 ![]() |
Reformed (well, on my way there) drag racer. My '94 Z28 isn't exactly what you'd call stock. Looks stock with a cowl induction hood but that's it!
LT1/auto was swapped out with a forged internal 6.0ltr Iron block LS1 and T-56 setup. 18" Z06 wheels (9.5 F and 10.5 R) and a LS1 brake Conversion up front. Koni's (4.5 sweeps down from stiff up front and one turn from soft rear) and Strano sway bars with the Ground Control Kit (26" front 27" rear ride height at top of wheel arch) Spohn tunnel mounted torque arm Hotchkis box LCAs Double adjustable panhard rod (rod ends) Home-made shock tower brace (rod ends) I am gonna be switching out the Hotchkis LCAs for the poly/rod end setup but would rather not switch out the T/A for a trans mount version if I really don't have to. What can I do/what do I need? I was thinking of putting on subframe connectors next, should I go with the 2-point or 3-point? Also, with all that was done to the car, what kinda racing can I do? What classes/etc.? Are there open events where I can go to mainly learn/improve on my driving? I'm not going hardcore but I'd like to do some autox and roadracing next year. I don't drive it on the street too often (only nights/weekends) so it doesn't really have to be a street setup. This post has been edited by Mean Green Z28: Nov 16 2007, 03:14 AM |
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#2
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
Well, for autocross you would be in Street Modified (SM). You could also legally run in SM2, X-Prepared(XP), and E-Modified (EM), but probably shouldn't unless that just fits the local mix well.
The short TA is likely to cause brake hop problems, but at least pre-98 cars have somewhat less trouble with it than 98+ cars. The main value of the SFC is to provide a convenient jacking point for swapping on your race tires (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I don't understand what you mean by switching out the Hotchkis LCAs for a poly/box setup. Neither is a great choice, but why swap one poly LCA for another? [I've been distracted while typing this and took a long time. If I'm late to the party, please ignore.] |
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#3
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 60 Joined: 11-November 07 From: Baltimore, Maryland Member No.: 2,000 ![]() |
Well, for autocross you would be in Street Modified (SM). You could also legally run in SM2, X-Prepared(XP), and E-Modified (EM), but probably shouldn't unless that just fits the local mix well. The short TA is likely to cause brake hop problems, but at least pre-98 cars have somewhat less trouble with it than 98+ cars. The main value of the SFC is to provide a convenient jacking point for swapping on your race tires (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I don't understand what you mean by switching out the Hotchkis LCAs for a poly/box setup. Neither is a great choice, but why swap one poly LCA for another? [I've been distracted while typing this and took a long time. If I'm late to the party, please ignore.] http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813511 ... look at post #8 where Sam responded. Oh, and I meant Poly/Rod end setup ... will fix that right now This post has been edited by Mean Green Z28: Nov 16 2007, 03:14 AM |
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 159 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Johnstown, PA Member No.: 170 ![]() |
Welcome to the more addicting drug. I`m a drag racing convert too. I`ve done a track day and alot more coming in `08. Flyin` thru corners is leaps and bounds better than 1/4 mile. Most hot rodders don`t know what they are missing.
I went from Hotchkis poly/poly LCAs and PHB to LG Motorsports aluminum rod ended LCAs and a Spohn chromemoly rod ended PHB. The difference in how the rear suspension works was HUGE. Zero bind. The first time I hit a corner hard with this setup was fantastic. The rear is so well planted. Go all rod ends on the LCAs!!! You mentioned about it not having to be a street setup.....My Z28 is not a dailly driver, but I try to drive it as much as possible. That said, I don`t notice the negative effects (harshness) of the rod ends anymore. |
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#5
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,874 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
You are also legal for C Prepared SCCA solo competition. The bigger than 16" wheels will require a weight penalty, but it looks like you are still full-bodied, so that probably not an issue.
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#6
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,528 Joined: 13-January 07 From: Solebury, Pa. Member No.: 1,589 ![]() |
Just curious, but why did you go iron block if you did not have forced induction nor a big shot (or were you planning on doing one or both of these in the future)??
To me, one of the whole points of swapping an LSx motor into an LT1 car would be to get that (even if it's a slight amount) better weight distribution, as well as slightly better overall weight and small power increase (given the same mod/preparation levels) with the alloy block. Again, this is only if the iron block was not needed for the FI/spray, or for cost reasons. |
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#7
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 270 Joined: 21-August 06 From: SE VA Member No.: 1,323 ![]() |
don't forget every club has different classes. most people here will give you whatever the SCCA rulebook says. NOT every club/group follows those rules. what you need to do first is find out what/who puts out events near you. if you want to just learn/have fun, look around for a local club in your area, if you have one. i found one that runs 5 mintues from my house here in NJ. what class am i in? C. does that mean anything to people who follow the letter of SCCA? no. do SCCA rules mean anything to me? no. so before worrying about what class youll be in, find out where and who you will be racing first.
do searches online, and check out the SCCA website, they usually have local clubs listed there. i think thats how i found mine. if youre up for a drive, come up here to NJ, we race at giants stadium. local clubs like them are MUCH better then running into an SCCA-like event where they go over your car with a comb, and might end up getting out-classed. big events are usually very crowded, you may only get 3 runs in an entire day (location depending). at my little local club, you could get 8-10 runs in a day (depending on # of entries). |
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#8
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Grumpy ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 ![]() |
don't forget every club has different classes. most people here will give you whatever the SCCA rulebook says. NOT every club/group follows those rules. what you need to do first is find out what/who puts out events near you. if you want to just learn/have fun, look around for a local club in your area, if you have one. i found one that runs 5 mintues from my house here in NJ. what class am i in? C. does that mean anything to people who follow the letter of SCCA? no. do SCCA rules mean anything to me? no. so before worrying about what class youll be in, find out where and who you will be racing first. do searches online, and check out the SCCA website, they usually have local clubs listed there. i think thats how i found mine. if youre up for a drive, come up here to NJ, we race at giants stadium. local clubs like them are MUCH better then running into an SCCA-like event where they go over your car with a comb, and might end up getting out-classed. big events are usually very crowded, you may only get 3 runs in an entire day (location depending). at my little local club, you could get 8-10 runs in a day (depending on # of entries). Actually most of the open trackers run with NASA HERE! Don't let the bitterness get to ya like most! Go out and get the seat time you'll need, and look around at the classes that you might want to run. Than slowly bring the car around to that class. That way you'll know if your ending up with a bunch of bitter A-holes (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) And just have FUN (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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#9
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 60 Joined: 11-November 07 From: Baltimore, Maryland Member No.: 2,000 ![]() |
Just curious, but why did you go iron block if you did not have forced induction nor a big shot (or were you planning on doing one or both of these in the future)?? To me, one of the whole points of swapping an LSx motor into an LT1 car would be to get that (even if it's a slight amount) better weight distribution, as well as slightly better overall weight and small power increase (given the same mod/preparation levels) with the alloy block. Again, this is only if the iron block was not needed for the FI/spray, or for cost reasons. Well, as I said I'm a reforming drag racer. I was planning on spraying it 'cos the last guy who had this setup was in the low 10's until he spun a rod bearing. I got the complete block/heads/cam which was barely used for dirt cheap (all I had to do was get new bearings/rings installed). I was going that way and even had a TH350 and big stall. I had a lot more in it and could've easily gotten into the 10s on the motor alone (with a few minor tweeks to gearing/intake/etc.), but after a best of 11.26@120 on the motor on my second time out with the new setup, I had to concentrate on other things for a while. Then things kinda went in another direction after I got out of college, started working full time and got married (all this within the last year, lol), so when a customer wanted to do an auto swap, I said he can have my setup. I've always been M6 jealous when test driving/working on them, so it wasn't that hard of a decision. Now I just wanna learn to "REALLY" drive the pants out of it! This post has been edited by Mean Green Z28: Nov 17 2007, 06:23 AM |
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#10
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
Don't let the bitterness get to ya like most! Go out and get the seat time you'll need, and look around at the classes that you might want to run. Than slowly bring the car around to that class. That way you'll know if your ending up with a bunch of bitter A-holes (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) When fielding rules questions locally, I always draw a distinction between "what anyone local would care about" (nothing so far here, the more the merrier) and "what you may care about someday" (money spent on stuff you can't use at Nationals or maybe even outside your home region). Personally, I'm not going to protest anything, but I do think it's better to make informed decisions. In fact, I love competing against big illegal motors (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) This post has been edited by sgarnett: Nov 17 2007, 12:04 PM |
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#11
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 119 Joined: 22-April 06 From: Beloit, Wisconsin Member No.: 1,167 ![]() |
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#12
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 60 Joined: 11-November 07 From: Baltimore, Maryland Member No.: 2,000 ![]() |
Well, as I said I'm a reforming drag racer. Just curious. who, or what sparked your interest in road Racing? This post has been edited by Mean Green Z28: Nov 18 2007, 05:51 PM |
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