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> I'm getting to old for this stuff!, Need a lift.
shortbus
post Dec 17 2008, 06:47 PM
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Yeah, pretty much what I was finding Mitch. I am Ohio so I was going to get my bottom patted by anyone selling lifts.

Again, mitch this panther is pretty much identical to the one I have. Right down to the welds and hydro lines placement and adapter holders.

One thing I did not know before hand but know now... Look at how the lock release mechanisms are set and unset.

The panther (and all the the "cheap" ones) are individual unlocks.... Hard to explain. In short to lower the vehicle you'll raise it a little (this is normal to all lifts) and then pull a little cords that unsets the locks on each side. Then lower the car.

The expensive lifts you just raise the car a little, then pull a lever that unlocks both sides and then lower the car. The lever is located right near the lowering lever.

If you look closely at all the pics you'll see (or not see) the extra lever.

Like I said I did not know this before and may not be a deal breaker for you. It is/was not for me. (Of course I noticed when the thing was bolted to the floor and I was pouring in hydraulic fluid.)

I just took it for granted all the unlocking mechanisms were the same. If this means something to you then tip-tapping on my keyboard just now was a good waste of company production time. Cheers.
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shortbus
post Dec 17 2008, 06:49 PM
Post #22


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Also, installation is easy. I'll take like 2 days. 3 if you are like me and have only one friend to help.
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mitchntx
post Dec 17 2008, 08:12 PM
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I realized early on about the dual locking ... mainy because the $1000 difference in price has that as a big marketing ploy.
I don't see it as a huge issue either.

2-3 days???? Does that include concrete cure time? I don't see anything more than 6-8 hours with help.
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shortbus
post Dec 17 2008, 08:58 PM
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As you can imagine I did not have much help.

A friend came over for a limited time to help put the posts in place. (Yes, my one friend and even he does not like me enough to stay for the duration.)
And I had a small hammer drill for the first drilling attempt... then rented a monstrous Hilti.

Other then that no it does not take much time. I have only worked on it a little each day after work. (Blatant excuse)

I am kinda stuck right now because I need a huge set of snap ring pliers. Mine are like GI Joe sized.

This post has been edited by shortbus: Dec 17 2008, 09:02 PM
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Crazy Canuck
post Dec 18 2008, 08:37 PM
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We were 2 doing the whole install and it took us a day for my lift... I don't see it taking so long, provided your cement is good, and you have all the required tools, enough drill bits, anchors, etc.
What takes a bit of time/patience is the alignment and straightening/leveling of the poles.
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mitchntx
post Dec 20 2008, 12:14 AM
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QUOTE (shortbus @ Dec 12 2008, 03:43 PM) *
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com...s-p/tp09a-d.htm

The over or under on sale for 1300... I got mine yesterday. =)


This is the one I went with, too ... no sales tax, no pick up fee and was able to work a deal where it's installed, all for $1550. I have to deal with the electrical, but everything else is done.

All the others after everything was computed, were $1350-1450 at a loading dock.

I should have a working lift Sunday evening.
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TSHACK
post Dec 20 2008, 01:22 AM
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QUOTE (mitchntx @ Dec 19 2008, 04:14 PM) *
QUOTE (shortbus @ Dec 12 2008, 03:43 PM) *
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com...s-p/tp09a-d.htm

The over or under on sale for 1300... I got mine yesterday. =)


This is the one I went with, too ... no sales tax, no pick up fee and was able to work a deal where it's installed, all for $1550. I have to deal with the electrical, but everything else is done.

All the others after everything was computed, were $1350-1450 at a loading dock.

I should have a working lift Sunday evening.


(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) Congrats & good luck on the install. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)
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shortbus
post Dec 22 2008, 03:27 PM
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QUOTE (mitchntx @ Dec 19 2008, 07:14 PM) *
QUOTE (shortbus @ Dec 12 2008, 03:43 PM) *
http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com...s-p/tp09a-d.htm

The over or under on sale for 1300... I got mine yesterday. =)


This is the one I went with, too ... no sales tax, no pick up fee and was able to work a deal where it's installed, all for $1550. I have to deal with the electrical, but everything else is done.

All the others after everything was computed, were $1350-1450 at a loading dock.

I should have a working lift Sunday evening.



Awesome. Good luck.
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mitchntx
post Dec 22 2008, 04:31 PM
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QUOTE (mitchntx @ Dec 19 2008, 06:14 PM) *
I should have a working lift Sunday Monday evening.


(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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shortbus
post Dec 22 2008, 06:59 PM
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HAHAHAH. Suddenly it is harder to laugh at me for taking so long, huh?

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mitchntx
post Dec 23 2008, 04:35 AM
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Crew arrived at 7pm ... done by 9:30.
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Mojave
post Dec 23 2008, 04:57 AM
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(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/fcad0cab.gif)
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shortbus
post Dec 23 2008, 12:58 PM
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Good for you!
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mitchntx
post Dec 25 2008, 04:57 PM
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Putting the finishing touches on the lift. Had some overhead clearance issues, but figured out a way to work around the limitations.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBYkay_ruek
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rmackintosh
post Dec 25 2008, 07:52 PM
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QUOTE (mitchntx @ Dec 25 2008, 11:57 AM) *
Putting the finishing touches on the lift. Had some overhead clearance issues, but figured out a way to work around the limitations.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBYkay_ruek



THAT is perfect! Now, I too, can consider a lift for my garage!

...all you need to do is make the sides with sliding extensions so that they fill in the gaps for those frigid California winters and Death Valley like summers...and I am IN!
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shortbus
post Dec 29 2008, 03:19 PM
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HAH! that is awesome.

How does your lift work for you?

Mine is awesome!
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mitchntx
post Dec 29 2008, 03:27 PM
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The race car is about 1/2" too low for the front arm to swing into position. So, I made some 2x12 runners for the car to roll on.

Had a fubared fitting and it spewed hydraulic fluid every where. But the company responded quickly and replaced it.

I'm having to completely re-arrange my shop to accomodate this sucker. I've had to come to terms with my insanity about keeping "stuff". Why do I keep the emmissions and EGR stuff from my 98TA that sold 2 years ago? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)
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shortbus
post Dec 29 2008, 04:33 PM
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I have the same low clearance issue. How long are your runners? Are they just for the front wheels?

On mine I had to have the front arms swung forward and dive on some 2x6s. I might find someway to have cleats that hold runners in place but still allow the runner to be removed. I am not sure I have it all worked out. So... I'll need to cruise the a hardware store.

All my fittings were fine though. Good thing to know the company did something about it. No issues with mine. My buddy wired it up and replaced the little pig tail that the lift came with. He also went though the connections to make sure they were all good -- two of them came out of the crimp connections. He also wired in a 30 amp flip switch above the motor.

I did not anticipate just how much room a lift takes up. I am glad I have it though.
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mitchntx
post Dec 29 2008, 06:10 PM
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I had some 2x12 lumber and cut 2 ~40" long and then back cut one end of each at a 45* angle so that it snugged against the plate that covers the hydraulic line and the EQ cables.
Not real happy with that as it clutters the floor. Like I said all I need is 1/2" or less. Might look into something more permenant on the pad or take a grinder to the car. It snags on the boxed section of the front SFC.

I too removed the pigtail and wired straight into the box. In actuality, I brought 6g cable on a 50A breaker to a box just below the motor assembly and installed a 22V plug for my welder/plasma cutter. I then ran a 10g pig tail from that box up and into motor assembly box amd used wire nuts.

As long as I'm not welding full tilt AND running the lift at the same time, I should be OK.

I also ran a dedicated 20A 110 to a quad plug box, also mounted on the lift beam. I'd like to plumb air over there as well.
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shortbus
post Dec 29 2008, 06:26 PM
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Nice. I did not realize that you also got the floor leveled model. I did too.

My lift is closer to on side of the garage then the other and that wall has 3 outlets right around the length of the car. I want to route some airlines too but I'll need to have one project at a time. When I do the air lines I'll put the noisy ass air compressor outside in a lean to or something and just have the air line pipe coming in.

I'll probably make some runners like yours. I think I'll have some sort of bolt to the floor method like a giant recessed nut in the floor and the bolt will fit in a counter sunk hole. I don't know how all that is going to work out yet.

My garage is 2 cars wide and 3 cars deep (with some extra room left to right and front and back). But with the lift it might fit 4 cars. Work benches and junk on the floor take up space.

I have the lift in about the middle off to one side. It is near the drain, plenty of power etc. I have a 50 amp welding outlet at the front.... but no welder so I think I am set for a while. It is much to far away if I had to weld something while the car was on the lift though.
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