Does anyone have a suggestion on the length of studs to run with spacers? I am running 5/16 spacers and I need more thread on the studs. Any suggestions on vendors?
Thanks guys.

Here is a link to a video of the Trans Am a PCA event last weekend. I still need springs and the motor only had 10 miles on it, so it was a break in run, but it is getting better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPRC-jgo59Y

I bought a set of GM studs p/n 22551491, I decided to try them since they are nut starters. I think they're about 2.5" long but haven't installed them yet.

I stock ARP 7708's - they are 2.5" long: plenty for up to 1/2" spacer unless your wheel hub is extra thick. I also stock the 3.25" long 7713's for those oddballs, like Jongbloed race wheels.

This thread has some pics and pricing info: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=8546

I went with the ARPs as well!

Cant go wrong with ARP's. Super strong. And you can use them to chase the threads of crappy wheel nuts......

bock

ARP's here. Never seen a nut that would ever do any damage to an ARP stud, no matter how cross threaded it went on.

Lately, I've noticed that the quality of OEM-style lugnuts from Dorman and "the other company" (can't remeber at the moment) has dropped. I usually find several in the box that apparently were not cleaned/deburred properly between the threading and plating operations. Once a steel shaving is firmly "glued" in place by the plating, it will chew up even the ARP threads. Now I always check the threads on new lugnuts before the first use.

I've seen that recently, too - I stock the Gorilla bulge nuts and had a new one scarf up the plating on a new ARP stud on the last axle package I put together. Both the stud and the nut went into the recycle bin. I guess I need to test fit the new nuts on a old stud first.

Just finished with putting in ARP's all the way around. Best bet for the rears is to pull the axels and change the rear end fluid.

with the ARP 7708 you can run 1/2" spacer up front and 3/4" spacer in rear w/o issue.
assuming rotor or wheel flange thicknesses are same as stock

FYI - it's not necessary to pull the rear axles to put the studs in. It's not a bad idea, but just not a necessity, if you have a car that had ABS.

When you look at the rear portion of the back of the axle flange, you'll see the TCS/ABS sensor held on with 1 bolt. When you remove that sensor, there is a hole in the back of the flange. You can almost push the sensor in from the back, but the reluctor wheel for the ABS is in the way. If you grind just about 1mm of material off the stud head, you can fit the stud past the reluctor wheel.

I did mine in my driveway in about an hour 5 years ago, and they are still working fine.

When your car doesn't have TCS, trust me it's much easier to just pull the axels. Hell I didn't want to do that but it was so much easier to just do everything in the press and clean the hub end of the axels with them out of the car. Plus it's a good time to do a $20 rear end oil change.

Bret

That's one thing I've always wondered. I utilize the hole in the backing plate to slip the studs through. I guess that GM made 2 different sets of plates? One with holes and one without? I always assumed that they'd have cut costs by just making 1 set with holes, and not supply the electronics with non-TCS cars.

I just drilled a hole in my backing plate to remove/install the studs through.

That place is like 1/4" cast iron on my car, it's so much easier to yank the axles it's not funny.