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rmackintosh
Well, we are heading full boat into the resurection of the Camaro in ITE. On order, being built, or currently being fabbed in are a new Speedway Engineering full floating 9" rear, NASCAR Tex 101A transmission and LS7 powerplant.

We have started with the rear, and have fabbed it into the car as of this weekend with a Unbalanced Engineering torque arm attached to it. I can say it is a TIGHT SQUEEZE! Man that housing is big! We had to dent up the gas tank to allow for the diff movement and new torque arm mounts on it! The diff should get all welded up this week and the major fab work done on the rear....I will get some pics soon.

The NASCAR parts from OvalSpeed on eBay...basically Tilton magnesium bellhousing, Tilton T/O bearing, Tex 101A, trans cooler etc....should be in this next week, and the motor in early January. Pics to follow of the build.

Here is a little tidbit from the last race:

YIKES!!! blink.gif The last weekend of the car the starter jammed into the flexplate and we got it unjammed but the starter was done....push started the car for 2 races. Well, looky at the ring gear knocked COMPLETELY off the flexplate! Just sitting loose in there! I am so lucky that that thing didn't hit the flexplate spinning at 7000 RPM!!!!! KERPOW!!!!!
THAT would have been "bad"!
roy
Ouch on the ring gear
Rob Hood
Keep the updates coming...nice upgrades!
firehawkclone
Keep the pic's coming Randy! Build that ls7 very well bud, i haven't seen one last very long with monthly track abuse! Weather they be a stock or built motor. I never went over and ask what let go each time, but it wasn't good.
CMC #37
Wow! Tres kewl Randy! smile.gif
rmackintosh
OK....some pics of the Speedway Engineering Full Floater:

mmmmm....brackets....


The Mark Williams aluminum center section is SO big, we had to cut the housing to fit it in! blink.gif


Other side showing brake brackets:


Back end of Unbalance Engineering Torque Arm modified to attach to the HUGE 9" housing:
rmackintosh
The new Tilton Magnesium Bell Housing:

Is a VERY clean, almost new looking, bell and TO from a NASCAR team that would cost $1600+ new.....got it for $325 from a guy on eBay!

Bell from the interior:


Tilton T/O bearing with Quartermaster T/O bearing and piston for QM clutch:
1meanZ
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. tongue.gif That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.
00 Trans Ram
A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (00 Trans Ram @ Dec 28 2009, 11:09 AM) *
A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon.


No, the bell fits an LS7 bolt pattern--not a LS7 NASCAR motor. cool2.gif

I am no LS motor expert, but I think all the LS motors have the same rear bolt pattern.
Blainefab
Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider.

I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise.

GlennCMC70
are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top?
StanIROCZ
QUOTE (1meanZ @ Dec 27 2009, 01:02 PM) *
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. tongue.gif That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.

stupid.gif

Randy, you're a badass.

Tell us about your LS7.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (Blainefab @ Dec 28 2009, 01:38 PM) *
Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider.

I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise.



Got ya on the concerns Alan! I wish I had taken some pics before we took it all apart!!! We are taking it to a shop to check for bending of the housing from all the welding tomorrow, and we will throw it back up there and see if there is some additional bracing we can add.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (GlennCMC70 @ Dec 28 2009, 07:32 PM) *
are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top?


No, the top IS the bleed, and it goes out the side of the bell and down to below it for easy bleeding. The side IS the pressure and goes out the top closer to the clutch master.
00 Trans Ram
Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once.

Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails?
rmackintosh
QUOTE (00 Trans Ram @ Dec 29 2009, 09:34 AM) *
Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once.

Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails?


I currently have the system you describe. A line right up next to the clutch resevoir--works OK. I think this will be a cleaner/neater install though....as long as you have a partner to bleed. I did not plumb the lines...some highly paid NASCAR guy did. The saftey wire job alone is amazing! I told my dad--my safety wire engineer--to go back to school! ph34r.gif
rmackintosh
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Dec 28 2009, 08:19 PM) *
QUOTE (1meanZ @ Dec 27 2009, 01:02 PM) *
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. tongue.gif That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.

stupid.gif

Randy, you're a badass.

Tell us about your LS7.


It is still "in the works" stage. Haven't even seen a picture of it. This stuff is all coming from folks far and wide--a new approach for me--I typically use local guys.

This is the motor base:

QUOTE
Specs:
Type: LS7 7.0L
Displacement: 427 Cubic Inches
Compression Ratio: 11.4:1
Bore x Stroke: 4.125 x 4.000
Rev Limit: 7250 RPM
Crank: Callies Forged
Rods: Callies H-Beam
Pistons: Mahle Motorsports
Cam: Mast Custom 3-Bolt Core Cam
Heads: Mast CNC LS7 Heads
Intake: GMPP LS7 Intake
Valve Springs: Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs



LS7 Aluminum Block
Plateau Honed to 4.125
True Surfaced Deck
Engine Block Debured
Blueprinted Shortblock
ACL Rod and Crank Bearings
Callies Forged 4.000” Stroked Crankshaft
Callies Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Custom Mahle Motorsports Pistons
Mast Motorsports CNC LS7 Cylinder Heads
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Cometic Headgaskets
Mast 3 bolt Core Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam
GMPP Cadillac Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Mast Black Label Pushrods
Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs
Mast Hollow Stem Intake Valves
Mast Exhaust Valves
Titanium Retainers
Machined Locks
M-90 Calibrated ECM
Main Wiring Harness
Dash Harness
Air Mass Harness
Trans Harness
EGO Harness
Bosch EGO Sensor
Fuel Pump Harness
Fan Harness
LS7 Intake Manifold
GM 2010’ 90mm DBW Throttle Body
Bosch Dead Headed Fuel Rail
Bosch LS7 Fuel Injectors
Mast 8 Layer Air Filter with IAT Bung
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 560-2218 | info@
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Oil Temperature Sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature
Engine Knock Sensors
Manifold Air Pressure Sensor
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
GM Foot Pedal
GM Starter
GM Oil Filter
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil
Engine Break in Oil Additive
Your choice of F-Body, Y-Body, or Truck Water Pump, Balancer, and Oil Pan
Runs on Premium 91-93 Octane


I have added some "racing" parts such as a 4 stage ARE dry sump, custom aftermarket heads, custom gear drive timing set, higher compression, etc......
nape
Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though. The Cup stuff is mostly R07 parts now (8-bolt flywheel, etc). Nationwide, ARCA, and the trucks still run the other stuff, but they run it longer before selling.
00 Trans Ram
QUOTE (nape @ Dec 29 2009, 07:25 PM) *
Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though.


Werd!!

Half my car is sourced from either used roundy-round parts or the local dirt/circle track shop. Basically, still a Pontiac drivetrain, body and chassis. But, most of the suspension, safety, clutch, and aero stuff is circle/dirt.
rmackintosh
Progress is slow......but shiney! 2thumbs.gif





All welded up and then taken to the dirt track shop to have it RE-BENT back into the shape I ordered it in.....and to Electro Plating Specialties for the pretty powder coating job.

Not much going on for updates while we wait for the trans and motor. I will get some more pics later this week.....
rmackintosh
FINALLY the trans arrives!





StanIROCZ
Sweet!

I could probably google it and find it out, but is the T101 straight cut and dog ring?
Rob Hood
Randy, will you have any clearance issues with the new transmission due to the shift linkage?
00 Trans Ram
Beautiful, just beautiful.

Please continue to document the build and install. This is a project that may be in my future (way in the future). If/when the T-56 lets go, I probably won't put another one back in.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jan 15 2010, 08:27 AM) *
Sweet!

I could probably google it and find it out, but is the T101 straight cut and dog ring?


It is a dog ring box.....woohoo.....should be fun!
rmackintosh
QUOTE (Rob Hood @ Jan 15 2010, 08:31 AM) *
Randy, will you have any clearance issues with the new transmission due to the shift linkage?


I don't think so....but you never know. The T101a is a bit narrower so that helps....also, no TA on that side to worry about....I think there is some extra room there for the TA.

The shifter is within 1/2" of the stock location front to rear. It is dealing with the side saddle location that will be fun!
StanIROCZ
I had to ball peen hammer my trans tunnel for the shifter and shift linkage. It's all in my Jerico thread. 4th gen tunnel is different, though. I also played with the spacers to move the linkage as close to the trans as possible, that might help you out Randy.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jan 15 2010, 01:40 PM) *
I had to ball peen hammer my trans tunnel for the shifter and shift linkage. It's all in my Jerico thread. 4th gen tunnel is different, though. I also played with the spacers to move the linkage as close to the trans as possible, that might help you out Randy.


Gotcha! That DOES help thanks! cool2.gif
rmackintosh
OK. We borrowed an LS block with heads on it so that we can continue fabbing the things on the car.....the new motor is "taking its time" getting completed. ph34r.gif

So far I have the trans and bellhousing on the back of the LS motor, and 1/2 the exhaust system fabbed in. Should be getting the exhaust finished on Monday. The trans mount came out pretty trick.

We have cut enough on the trans tunnel to get the Tex 101A in there and working.....will need to do some more beating on the tunnel and some reinforcing and some boxing to cover the holes. That will be Tues-Weds projects at the fabricators. Will likely reduce the spacers a bit too on the shifter itself. The shifter came out about 1" to 2" more rearward than stock. I had planned it that way...I always had to stretch a bit in 5th and I may move the seat back someday....a rear bent shift lever should accomodate that. The shifter side mount may lead me to bend the shifter towards the center of the car.....we will see when it is all together.

No pics.....I maxed out my account this month with all the "For Sale" pics.....should have some in Feb.
rmackintosh
Photo updates:
The old junker motor in there:


New Trans Mount:


Uh oh.....there is LINKAGE??????


My dual muffler system fabbed back in.....Lobaks for everywhere BUT Laguna....Spintechs for Laguna:


Look Ma! I got room for a cupholder now! I can put a whole six pack up there now:


Ahhhhh.....linkage likey MUCH better:


Sexy new Mark Williams aluminum center section!:
aftermidnight
nice work..... couple of good places to go

speedway motors
stock car products
performance bodies
arp world

good prices and fast shipping. never had any problems with any of these guys for building both my late models
dailydriver
SCHWEEET!

Do the Spin Techs flow as well as XR1s/etc., or are they the only thing that will bring the dbs down to Laguna's noise level requirements??

Is that a locker in the work of art MW center?
rmackintosh
QUOTE (dailydriver @ Feb 4 2010, 12:23 PM) *
SCHWEEET!

Do the Spin Techs flow as well as XR1s/etc., or are they the only thing that will bring the dbs down to Laguna's noise level requirements??

Is that a locker in the work of art MW center?


The Spin Techs are quiet....that is why I bought them....Laguna DOES NOT mess around. I haven't heard too much about the XR1s but Lou Gigliotti told me once that they did not knock down the noise too much.

No locker....still need my posi. It is a DPI Platinum Track. A competitor has been using them here with great success. Needs a rebuild once a year though.
198esp
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (198esp @ Feb 4 2010, 01:32 PM) *
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.


Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)
97bird
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 02:16 PM) *
QUOTE (198esp @ Feb 4 2010, 01:32 PM) *
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.


Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)




Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft smile.gif
StanIROCZ
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 02:16 PM) *
QUOTE (198esp @ Feb 4 2010, 01:32 PM) *
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.


Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

I assume the T101 is similar in weight to the Jerico. If so, it's about 40 lbs lighter than a T56.

http://www.f-bodysport.com/jerico_4_speed.htm
StanIROCZ
How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?
rmackintosh
QUOTE (97bird @ Feb 4 2010, 02:37 PM) *
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 02:16 PM) *
QUOTE (198esp @ Feb 4 2010, 01:32 PM) *
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.


Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)




Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft smile.gif


I went to the box store yesterday and bought a tube for it......I just need to get out to the shop on Saturday to pick up the driveshaft. I will ship it on Monday I think.

:-D
rmackintosh
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Feb 4 2010, 04:45 PM) *
How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?


It is set at .6 degrees now. It came with 3/4 degrees from Speedway, but my fabricator though that was a bit much as did the diff manufacturer and the rear end guy who straightened it after welding.
Rob Hood
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 03:46 PM) *
QUOTE (97bird @ Feb 4 2010, 02:37 PM) *
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 02:16 PM) *
QUOTE (198esp @ Feb 4 2010, 01:32 PM) *
any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.


Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)




Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft smile.gif


I went to the box store yesterday and bought a tube for it......I just need to get out to the shop on Saturday to pick up the driveshaft. I will ship it on Monday I think.

:-D


Quick sidebar - 4th gen driveshafts will fit in a single golf club box (3 or 4 iron length or longer). Check with your local golf store for a free box...

Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
dailydriver
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 4 2010, 06:02 PM) *
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Feb 4 2010, 04:45 PM) *
How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?


It is set at .6 degrees now. It came with 3/4 degrees from Speedway, but my fabricator though that was a bit much as did the diff manufacturer and the rear end guy who straightened it after welding.



Some of the Aussie V-8 Supercars run up to -2* on their floaters, but we all know they're crazy anyway. wink.gif (They run SPOOLS in those things!!! gr_eek2.gif )
rmackintosh
Got the rear mostly buttoned up today.....center section in, axle endplay set, floater hubs on, torque arm on, brakes almost on.....forgot my camera though.....
cool2.gif
firehawkclone
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 6 2010, 07:01 PM) *
forgot my camera though.....
cool2.gif



Sinner nutkick.gif

Randy did you weigh the two axles?
rmackintosh
QUOTE (firehawkclone @ Feb 7 2010, 10:19 AM) *
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 6 2010, 07:01 PM) *
forgot my camera though.....
cool2.gif



Sinner nutkick.gif

Randy did you weigh the two axles?


Sorry I did not....they are not light however.... ph34r.gif
Blainefab
Randy - Did you consider using a motor plate instead of the mounts to the Kmember? I've got a LS2 install coming up next month, into a LT1 car, and have been thinking a plate would simplify some parts of the task.
rmackintosh
QUOTE (Blainefab @ Feb 17 2010, 05:49 AM) *
Randy - Did you consider using a motor plate instead of the mounts to the Kmember? I've got a LS2 install coming up next month, into a LT1 car, and have been thinking a plate would simplify some parts of the task.


I did not, for "ease" of fabrication. I KNOW that my fabricator thinks I was crazy for NOT doing this, and after modifying the UMI crossmember to clear my new dry sump pump, I probably was wrong. Oh well, lesson learned.
rmackintosh
Here are the latest pictures:

The center section....all aluminum and sheit...


Full Floater baby!


Had to repair the panhard bar bracket....TWICE!


Slotted panhard bar on drivers side....


Torque Arm in there......still need to put in the adjustable part.


The motor is sitting there on a crate, we are dealing with issues already. The dry sump pump didn't look like it would fit, so we modified the motor mounts on the UMI crossmember to have more clearance. The new Tilton Super Starter didn't even fit the starter bolts.... blink.gif ....damn. Had to shim the starter and shim the bellhousing....and have to figure out how to get all that wire into the car for the PCM, fuse block and relay block. Hope to put the motor in on Saturday.
StanIROCZ
QUOTE (rmackintosh @ Feb 3 2010, 06:52 PM) *

You happy with that single rectangle tube column mount? Is it stiff enough for your tastes? I'm thinking of doing almost the same thing, cept mine will be mounted to my pedal brackets instead of the dash bar.
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