Thanks!

We've absolutely LOVED our '02 2500HD D/A. With a ~3000# car on an open steel trailer you kind of forget it's back there. We also netted 18.6 MPG on the trip to Topeka the year we went to Nats. We did have the tailgate latch retainers finally break (common problem due to stupid plastic bits), and it's recently started having issues with the dash lights coming on at start-up, but that's about the only problems we've had in nearly 20 years of ownership. Heck, still have the OEM brake pads on the thing.

If it weren't for the stupid DEF and pollution control crap they've piled on diesels these days, I'd trade it in now, while we're both working, for an upgrade and to reset the clock. If we do that, I might actually opt for the 6.2, but my God, the GMC has been a solid-performer for us!

A family of you-tubers who vlog their travels had the MB on the heater on their NEW Airstream pop, and IIRC, the telltale was the thing would light the burner, and occasionally popped the breaker. A replacement MB, that was owner-replaceable in about 15 minutes of take your time work, seemed to have solved that issue.

Hmm, maybe a voltage regulator FET went bad on the MB. If there's any visible blown capacitors that's another tell.

I'm late as usual. I saw the folks that vlog their travels, and they post some good information. I'll check them out again.

I couldn't pick up any tv stations or radio stations in the camper the last time we were out. I also mentioned that I disliked the Jensen DVD player/entertainment center. I went over yesterday to start installing the new Furrion DVD/entertainment system. When I pulled the radio out I found that there is a splitter coming from the "amplified antenna wall plate with a switch to power the antenna" The FM antenna lead was hooked to the input of the cable splitter, the other two wires (on a 3 way splitter that should have been a 2 way) are still running to unknown locations. The antenna has a black cable attached to it on the roof, the cable attached to the "antenna input" on the switch plate is white. There is a black cable, but I'm unsure if it's the antenna or something else. They could have extended the cable on the antenna, but it shouldn't need that much cable to get to the AV area in the camper so I'd expect the factory lead to reach. Now I'm going to short each cable hookup (one at a time) and sort out what cables go where, tag them all and then install them correctly. Currently, I don't really trust anything they have done, so I'll start from scratch.

The new radio is in. I had to cut the cabinet with an oscillating saw to get it to fit. The opening wasn't a true double DIN, it was about 3/8" too short. I marked it, and cut it nice and clean and the face of the radio covers it. I did have an issue with a screw that was put in with a "Kreg jig" that had the head in the way on one side, so I just removed it. It still has other screws and it's just a short face plate for the front of the cabinet under the radio. The antenna has been rewired and hooked up correctly. I changed to a two way splitter for the coax and now I need to get out of town to see how the reception does. In town I pick up everything anyway. If that doesn't work, I'll swap to a separate antenna of some kind and move along from there.

Next up, a cell phone repeater with an external antenna and I'm considering adding a Dish for TV (we've had some crappy camping days and having TV would be nice....assuming the weather doesn't kill the signal).

Brand new, OR 40 years old, isn’t RV wiring fun?

Yea. It's a little like race cars, there's always something to do. In good news, I can quit and just go camping (once the weather is better), but I have some things I'd like to do. We are in good shape, but I can never leave well enough alone. I'll never change.

Yeah, our Bluebird has been the 'gift that keeps on giving'! We went with a Haloview brand rear view camera system, which I think is Furrion reboxes. It's supposedly compatible with the Furrion units, anyway. I opted for their 'portable' unit, mostly because the cameral was 'wireless' and had a battery pack that boasted 16 hours of uptime. The battery pack can just lay inside the overhead storage bin next to the antenna. I can charge it there, via USB, or remove it and charge it up front.

The camera has a magnetic mount you can use, and we opted for that, sticking it to the old camera mount. It's solid, and seems to be in a pretty good spot. Fine-tuning will happen when we go somewhere. I can see all except the closest 11' to the back of the bus, so I'll still need a spotter. I'd not back the thing w/o a spotter anyway, so it's kind of a moot point. The camera antenna can stay in the back storage bay and still provide signal to the monitor. I'm planning to install Furrion side view cameras, too, which supposedly work with this monitor.

The whole kit comes in a Pelican-like storage box, which is overkill for what we need. I went this route since I figured I'd have to search for the least number of ancilliary bits to install the thing. I was right.

I'm also working on installing a trailer brake controller, since we're planning to tow the race car, and maybe a toad, to events. While the bus is wired for trailers, complete with a 7-pin connector, there's no brake controller signal wire there, which really sux. I am trying to figure out how is best to get the signal wire from the dash to the connector. There's no single cable run inside, and it has to go to the back and 'inside' the coach to connect to the trailer plug. You really can't see the wiring at the plug unless you pull the plug out of the body. There's just too much stuff back there. It's also odd that they put the plug about 3' up the back side of the bus, and not down at the receiver, where I would have preferred. I'll need an extension, since my trailer wiring is of a good length to reach the receiver, but not much more.

It's always something......

If anybody needs a RV DVD player with remote control. It has about 10 minutes of total run time on it. I guess the issue wasn't the reception of the radio, it was antenna wiring issues. And, I wanted a 3 zone system so I could add some book shelf speakers for sound instead of using the ceiling speakers the manufacturer sent. All the wires are tagged with what they connect to, so it's an easy install. AM/FM/DVD/CD player with bluetooth and wifi. I believe it's the Jensen JWM452 (I have to double check the model number).

$125 shipped in the 48 states.

I'm way behind on updates.

The three zone radio is in, bookshelf Polk Audio speakers are a huge improvement over the OEM in ceiling speakers. I also replaced the OEM in ceiling speakers with Kicker car speakers (mostly looking for additional bass output). I swapped the outdoor speakers to marine grade 6.5" MB Quart speakers.

The solar system now has 4 panels (running in a series/parallel configuration, two series, the two pairs in parallel). They are running at basically 48 volts and 20-ish amps. That keeps me under the 30 amp limit of the 10 gauge factory wiring and I'm running a Victron 100/50 MPPT controller. It's able to handle up to 100 volts input and it will produce up to 50 amps of output. I have three 190 watt panels and a 200 watt (I ordered one to try to get another matching 190 watt when I saw the 200 watt panels were being released, but I got a 200....it's close enough that it works fine in series). So I have 770 watts of solar. I've seen the system make 358 watts (the rated output is under lab conditions). I'm not sure I've ever asked more of the system than that. I've left the refrigerator running for a week in storage (on propane and 12v/solar). It's been perfect. I'm also planning for a 12v refrigerator upgrade if/when my refrigerator dies (some of them are known to have issues).

I got the wifi repeater on the roof. It's been very handy. I put in MicroAir smart (wifi/bluetooth) thermostats on both AC units. I forget what else.

Last Sunday I had a tire explode and damage the side of the camper. So it got new goodyear endurance trailer tires this week. I bought a "camper torque wrench" for the next time. And I'm currently working to fix the damage. With the issues with the truck and the irritating camper damage, I'm considering selling the truck and camper and just buying a 1500 pickup and going back to playing with cars. We will see I guess...

That sux!! How old are your trailer tires? We try to not let ours get more than about 5. years on them before cycling them out, and we keep the trailer indoors when not in use. Nice work with the solar. We don't boondock that much to justify solar (other than on the racecar) on the bus.

Today's 1500s are quite capable. I'd venture to say that today's 1500's are about the same as the 2500's of yesteryear, in just about all dimensions, power, size, weight, towing capacity. With the issues we've been having with the AC on our 2500HD, I've been thinking about trading it on a 6.2 1500 4X4. That'll let us tow the racecar, dingy-tow the 1500, and with a drop kit, get it low enough it's not a big deal for the 'kids' to get into and out of. That, and we can lighten our insurance load by 1 vehicle.

Tires had a date code of 2021. I was planning to replace them at the start of next season. I almost did them at the start of this season, wish I had.

I finished up the underbelly repairs tonight. I believe it's all sealed up and waterproof. This is a good start. We will see.